Remote Turbo Setup & Falcon Sixes?

Have you taken the time to read through this thread on turbocharging?

If you have questions as you read through the thread, please ask.
I think I understand it. You did a great job writing it. I will definitely be referring back to it as I get closer to the build.
 
I think I understand it. You did a great job writing it. I will definitely be referring back to it as I get closer to the build.
Take some time to play with the MatchBot calculator in post #1 to help you understand how different things affect power, air temps and so on.
Change the engine displacement to 250 ci inches and have some fun looking at power and torque at different boost levels, engine VEs and intercooler efficiencies along with where you would be on different turbocharger compressor maps.
 
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I do have one more question for the time being. I'm going to assume that the stock '69 pistons (this is also assuming that the stock pistons haven't been replaced) are not hypereutectic. This being said, though not as ideal as forged pistons, would hypereutectic pistons at least prevent any possible piston issues I would potentially have with the stock cast pistons?

Also for the sake of learning, can hypereutectic pistons handle more boost than cast pistons? I would assume yes, but I'm learning not to assume with these things.

Would aftermarket cast aluminum pistons even be more durable than the stock cast pistons?

I would appreciate some specific answers as well as "general-rule-of-thumb" answers.
 
Hypereutectic cast pistons are stronger than regular cast pistons and are more stable under heat and would handle more boost.
However, because of the high silicon content Hypers are very brittle and more prone to break with detonation.
Aftermarket cast pistons would be equivalent to stock pistons for durability.

Silv-O-lite makes three Hypereutectic pistons for the Australian 250 six that will fit the USA 250 six.
Silv-O- lite 3332H, 3328H and the 3327H.

Does your 250 need to be rebuilt?
 
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Hypereutectic cast pistons are stronger than regular cast pistons and are more stable under heat and would handle more boost.
However, because of the high silicon content Hypers are very brittle and more prone to break with detonation.
Aftermarket cast pistons would be equivalent to stock pistons for durability.

Silv-O-lite makes three Hypereutectic pistons for the Australian 250 six that will fit the USA 250 six.
Silv-O- lite 3332H, 3328H and the 3327H.

Does your 250 need to be rebuilt?
I haven't got into that yet. I have to swap it from my old car to this other car so I was gonna wait until it was out of the car to really tear into it. I know that some parts have been replaced because when I pulled the valve cover off, one of the pushrods was marked. I don't know anything further than that.
 
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Hypereutectic cast pistons are stronger than regular cast pistons and are more stable under heat and would handle more boost.
However, because of the high silicon content Hypers are very brittle and more prone to break with detonation.
Aftermarket cast pistons would be equivalent to stock pistons for durability.

Silv-O-lite makes three Hypereutectic pistons for the Australian 250 six that will fit the USA 250 six.
Silv-O- lite 3332H, 3328H and the 3327H.

Does your 250 need to be rebuilt?
If I were to buy a new set of pistons, I see that the 3332H has the deepest dish, the 3328H has a shallow dish, and the 3327H is a flat top piston. For low boost applications, the 3328H should be sufficient, correct?
 
The Silv-o-lite 3332H piston uses the standard 5/64" ring set and will give you a compression ratio of 6.9 with a standard bore piston of 3.681"
The Silv-o-lite 3328H piston uses the metric 1.5/1.5/4.0 mm ring set and will give you a compression ratio of 8.1 with a standard bore piston of 3.681"
The Silv-o-lite 3327H piston uses the metric 1.5/1.5/4.0 mm ring set and will give you a compression ratio of 8.8 with a standard bore piston of 3.681"

Yes, it looks like the 3328H would be sufficient
 
So back to the drawing board.
What does your engine/car project look like now?
 
The plans for your project.
That's what I figured.

I am looking for anywhere between 200-300hp (I'm not too picky there) with an intercooled remote turbo setup (assuming that I can fit a turbo where I'm thinking) running around 8-10psi.

Sound reasonable? If you need more specifics feel free to ask.
 
That's what I figured.

I am looking for anywhere between 200-300hp (I'm not too picky there) with an intercooled remote turbo setup (assuming that I can fit a turbo where I'm thinking) running around 8-10psi.

Sound reasonable? If you need more specifics feel free to ask.
Just wanted to know what your goals were to help us help you.
 
A little off the topic of engines but I have read where people have used an aluminum driveshaft out of an Explorer in their early Mustangs. So that will held get a little more power to the wheels. Any body have any recommendations for good 8 inch gear ratio for street use?
 
A little off the topic of engines but I have read where people have used an aluminum driveshaft out of an Explorer in their early Mustangs. So that will held get a little more power to the wheels. Any body have any recommendations for good 8 inch gear ratio for street use?
What ratio gears are in the rear end now?
 
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A little off the topic of engines but I have read where people have used an aluminum driveshaft out of an Explorer in their early Mustangs. So that will held get a little more power to the wheels. Any body have any recommendations for good 8 inch gear ratio for street use?
A 3.55 ratio will work well with the turbocharger for street use.
Just as important is replacing the open differential with some type of positive traction unit.
This will give you a stronger rear end as well as better traction.
 
The problem with putting it in the engine compartment is the cost of custom turbo headers, the deletion of at least one accessory (I was hoping to daily it so A/C is in the plan. Power steering is also ideal but I guess I could go without that and move the A/C compressor to the driver's side), and having to relocate the battery to the trunk (I may do this anyways but I would like to have the option in case I would rather leave it.
You can get electric power steering pumps..just need to uprate your alternator
 
Plan on having three things in the back of the car.
1.) The turbocharger
2.) The turbocharger oil return pump.
3.) The wastegate.

I had to revise the waste gate location because the outlet from the wastegate must go to the pipe between the turbocharger and the muffler.
I get stuck in the drag racing mode where it doesn't matter where you dump the exhaust.
Sorry about that

Google "turbocharger oil return pump"

The 49 Ford 2400 hp turbocharged 430 cid SBF
Our best 1/4 mile time 6.82 sec @ 210 mph

1768259462775.jpeg
 
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Plan on having three things in the back of the car.
1.) The turbocharger
2.) The turbocharger oil return pump.
3.) The wastegate.

I had to revise the waste gate location because the outlet from the wastegate must go to the pipe between the turbocharger and the muffler.
I get stuck in the drag racing mode where it doesn't matter where you dump the exhaust.
Sorry about that

Google "turbocharger oil return pump"

The 49 Ford 2400 hp turbocharged 430 cid SBF

View attachment 28668
I don't plan on running a muffler at all if that makes any difference. I was just gonna dump it out the side.
 
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