benchracer
Well-known member
engine porn centerfold
This will be fun
- Thread starter Ikosix
- Start date
So I thought I’d give an update. It’s been a while.
I picked up the block and crank from the shop last week. I think I can start to assemble. I just need to get a few odds and ends together.
I’ll post some pictures in a day or so.
Do y’all have a preference on the rear main seal?
Also I’m wondering who you guys use for pushrods?
I picked up the block and crank from the shop last week. I think I can start to assemble. I just need to get a few odds and ends together.
I’ll post some pictures in a day or so.
Do y’all have a preference on the rear main seal?
Also I’m wondering who you guys use for pushrods?
Manton series 4 pushrods which have hard drawn tubes for guide plate use. 5/16 x .083 Wall
Use the Comp 7706-1 checking pushrod
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Just getting started putting the motor together. I know it’s been a while. I finally got all the parts together and in the shop. Also I built the shop. Now that I’ve got a good place and some time I’m gonna get started painting. Then it’s time to put it together.
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Looking good! What color blue is that?
It’s rustoleums Ford blue engine paint.
clintonvillian
Famous Member
Just saw this thread! Awesome!
Which rods are you using? And why terminator instead of HP?
Which rods are you using? And why terminator instead of HP?
Stock rods. https://fordsix.com/threads/this-will-be-fun.81731/post-643798
He will not be using Holley water injection so the Terminator X has everything else needed for this project.
Today I installed the head and now I’m looking at measuring for pushrods. I have a comp pushrod checker. I know I need to set the lash too. I’m kinda confused as to how I check the length without setting lash and vice versa. Setting the lash without the correct pushrod length.
Any thoughts?
I know I’m probably overthinking this. I’ve not done this sorta thing before and don’t want to make mistakes.
Any thoughts?
I know I’m probably overthinking this. I’ve not done this sorta thing before and don’t want to make mistakes.
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The pushrod needs to be the distance from the lifter to the rocker arm when the lifter is all the way down plus an additional .060" to .075" to preload the lifter plunger.
Install a lifter in the intake and exhaust holes for cylinder #1. The lifters need to be dry so the plunger can easily be pushed downward, away from the retaining clip with a pushrod.
The lifter needs to be on the heel of the cam lobe opposite the cam lobe peak.
To position the exhaust lifter, turn the crankshaft clockwise until the intake lifter has just finished reaching bottom and stop.
To position the intake lifter, turn the crankshaft clockwise until the exhaust lifter just begins to rise.
Adjust the pushrod length until there is no valve lash and the lifter plunger is barely being pushed downward away from the retaining clip.
Then add another .060". That will be the pushrod length for that position.
Do all 12 lifter positions and record them so you can take an average.
When you installed the cam, where did the intake lobe center end up at?
It looks like the timing tab on the passenger side of the harmonic balancer is not installed.
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I didn’t use a degree wheel. All I did was install the cam and crank gears with the two dots lined up. I have the pointer cleaned up and ready to install but If I need to back up and do it differently I sure can. I’ve made a positive stop out of a spark plug that I was going to use to find mark top.
You need to be sure the cam is installed with the intake lobe center at 110 degrees ATDC.
Too often an aftermarket cam is at least 4 degrees off by just lining up the dots.
The cam card gave you the timing events to check to make it so.
Turning the crankshaft clockwise, the intake lifter lifts .050" at 5 degrees ATDC and closes .050" from bottom 35 degrees ABDC.
With the dial indicator on the end of the pushrod which is sitting on the #1-cylinder intake lifter (second lifter from the front), you should be able to turn the crankshaft clockwise to see when the lifter is up .050"
It should occur at 5 degrees ATDC.
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