Top-end and Cam Build

Washers worked and spaced the water pump pulley out just enough to get the t-stat housing in there. I would've put the old one back in except I want the thermostat in there for the fan controller and I couldn't break the plug free in the old guy. Alignment looks ok between the water pump and the dampener. Looks to be off on the alternator. My guess is that it always was off there when I put that new one in a couple years ago. I'll just have to pay attention to it and see how the wear and tear goes. I forgot to measure the width of the washers I stuck in there but I'd say they're in the 0.060" - 0.080" neighborhood. Here's a couple snapshots of the pulley alignment.

20161005_074040_zpsk05dl2gz.jpg


20161005_074012_zps1x2vjf0j.jpg
 
cr_bobcat":34hy6pl0 said:
Washers worked and spaced the water pump pulley out just enough to get the t-stat housing in there. I would've put the old one back in except I want the thermostat in there for the fan controller and I couldn't break the plug free in the old guy. Alignment looks ok between the water pump and the dampener. Looks to be off on the alternator. My guess is that it always was off there when I put that new one in a couple years ago. I'll just have to pay attention to it and see how the wear and tear goes. I forgot to measure the width of the washers I stuck in there but I'd say they're in the 0.060" - 0.080" neighborhood. Here's a couple snapshots of the pulley alignment.

20161005_074040_zpsk05dl2gz.jpg


20161005_074012_zps1x2vjf0j.jpg
Click to expand...

personally, I would have just ground a bit off the t-stat housing, vs shimming the pulley, but thats just me...
 
It figures, I just bought one of those t-stat housings on ebay....
So it will have fitment issues ?
DannyG
 
"...on ebay…"
again, Y we use "our guys".
Ck w/ Matt at vintage inlines dot com 1st, All Ways!...
 
Chad, mine is the CI/VI t-stat. Not sure why I have issues but others haven't. Just my luck I guess...

I'll check the casting date on my pulley. This has been rebuilt once by the PO so I have no clue as to what was done...
 
".. I have issues but others haven't….
ask Matt. Could B his prt?
I wuz lookin at'em my self (the 1 w/the bung 4 the ele thermostat to kick in the Taurus ele fans).

"...spaced the water pump pulley out just enough to get the t-stat housing in there…"
U look purdy close in the pic !
May B, like RichC sez, grind steda shim?
 
Steve and I are talking. I want to make sure he has the 200 and not the 250. There is a difference. Matt
 
So close I can taste it! Plugging vacuum leaks in prep for the first start. Would have been today but the vac nipple on my carb spacer wqs larger than my PCV valve hose. Need something slightly larger. Also found the distributor advance vac port that ws wide open. So, provided I didn't hose up the fuel pu.p install, I should be able to fire her up in the next day or 2. Still need to establish TDC to align the distrubutor when I install it but other than that, i'm there...
 
:banghead:

Still don't have a PVC vac line that fits. I did make some progress though. The fuel pump is primed. I had already primed the oil pump. So I figured that I would get the fuel pump out of the way too. I found that I basically need a hose just large enough to fit the breather nipple ( much easier to bring into the parts store than disassembling the carb spacer) and I should be good to go.
 
:banghead: Can't....get....her....to....start...... :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

I keep backfiring. I've re-stabbed the distributor but still no success. I keep getting a backfire so I'm not sure what's going on. I did re-align the distributor and will try again this weekend when my brother can come over to help. I'd like to have the timing gun going while we're cranking this thing to see if I have the distributor way out of whack. I'm not overly happy with the sound though while she's cranking. I've just sunk a lot of time into this and I don't want to end up with a pile of scrap metal for my work...
 
Your probally 180 degrees off try bringing it to TDC on number 1 and see where the distributors rotor is pointing to on the cap post. Pull the spark plugs and turn the engine over putting your finger over or a piece of tissue paper over the number hole when you feel pressure or see the tissue move your on the compression stroke then set the engine timing mark to 10 - 12 degrees BTDC and the distributor on the number 1 post and you should fire right up. Good luck :nod: Edited
 
Maybe 180 out or maybe just a bit to far off. Put your finger in the hole and make sure your lining her up on the right stroke if you didn't already. From there it's just a matter of left or right. It will definitely help to have someone with a gun eyeballing the damper mark to know which way to go. In the Econoline you can do it alone b/c the engine and switch are both right there at the drivers seat :)
 
Last cam break in. I was sitting in the car positioning my 2000 rpm throttle stick, I notice zero oil presser on gage. Shut it off, I get out slip fall. Forgot to hook up turbo drain, 8 quartz of oil on floor :banghead: Fixed drain , filled oil, all was well. O yea washed clothes .
 
It "ran" for about 10 s this morning before I shut her down. I think the timing was just way off. I also slightly closed the choke. I'm using a pair of vice grips to hold the choke open. I had to close that a bit because it was a little chilly this am. I think if I get the idle cranked up I might be able to get her going. I'm feeling more hopeful. I'll also try to get the timing closer to 10* instead of roughly 0 where it is now.
 
:beer: :beer: :beer: :thanks: :thanks: :thanks: :beer: :beer: :beer:

After eyeballing the timing to about 10 deg as suggested, I managed to get her to fire right up!!!!! As soon as I could, I got her up to 2000 RPM and kept it there for 20 min. I didn't see any leaks at all! Oil pressure was solid the entire time.

There were 2 things I noted when I shut her down.
>She dieseled quite a bit when I shut it off, but then again I shut it off while she was at 2000 RPM. I'll check on this after the oil change and I get the idle set.
> I noticed a leak after I shut it down. It was coolant boiling out through the #13 stud. This seemed a bit odd since my temp never really came off of cold at all. I'm not sure exactly how to interpret that.

I'm going to let her cool down then crack open the rad and top her off. I need to snag another oil pan for this first oil change. The one I have is a closed collector and I won't be able to look for any metal with it. I wouldn't expect to see much since I wasn't putting in new rings or anything like that. I suppose the other thing I could do is hold a magnet in the stream as it pours out and look to see what stick. That's essentially what I would have to do to inspect the oil anyway...

Thank you to all of you who have helped me get to this point! This was my first cam swap as well as my first head swap. So I basically had no idea here of what to expect. This really went about as smooth as it could have! Prost! :beer:
 
:D Hi cr_bobcat.That"after boil"is called heat soak from the engine block when the coolant is no longer circulating through the block and radiator.A normal occurance.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
My concern though is that I didn't have to add any coolant at all. Tells me that the t-stat never opened. Any sage advice on that? I did drill a hole (1/8"). I figured that would've helped...
 
cr_bobcat":icsjoikp said:
My concern though is that I didn't have to add any coolant at all. Tells me that the t-stat never opened. Any sage advice on that? I did drill a hole (1/8"). I figured that would've helped...
Click to expand...
on my first start, the assembly lube bubbled from a couple studs, which like you, made me think it was coolant, could this be the case here?
 
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