Top-end and Cam Build
- Thread starter cr_bobcat
- Start date
Maybe I did something right then on the t-stat! :-D
RichCreations, it was definitely coolant. The scent was unmistakable. I did use Brad Penn oil for break-in, so I was eyeing anything green very closely.
Just drained the oil. Nothing of note in the pan oil. I did notice some very fine metallic coloration in the filter. I assume this is attibuted to the cam break-in. Being that the whole purpose of the 20 min run is to work harden the cam, I'm assuming this is normal.
RichCreations, it was definitely coolant. The scent was unmistakable. I did use Brad Penn oil for break-in, so I was eyeing anything green very closely.
Just drained the oil. Nothing of note in the pan oil. I did notice some very fine metallic coloration in the filter. I assume this is attibuted to the cam break-in. Being that the whole purpose of the 20 min run is to work harden the cam, I'm assuming this is normal.
The only thing that worry's me is the coolant leak. If you are confident with the sealant on that stud ,try a cold torque check ,make them all even if you did not.
What is the location of the leaking stud, passenger front or driver side rear or something else,my memory may be off.
I was thinking 13 was the wet water pump stud.
I was thinking 13 was the wet water pump stud.
Seams like it has to be on the pass side to see leak or the valve cover off to see drivers side oil passage head bolt .
Now I am confused
Now I am confused
chad":1qa29hs0 said:
x2
Just drain it,remove nut ,measure, remove stud, clean threads,sealer, reinstall. Because the first thread of a bolt stud is not full sized, try going one more turn, It will seal better. Maybe take fan belt off spin test, just do not bottom out stud shoulder. Of course ultra on nut and washer and re torque.Good luck.
Chad you are off a little bit. The stud shoulder contacting the block surface can act like a wedge and split the block, if turned down hard. That boss is made weak by being machined away for water pump clearance, plus 50 years of rusting away, especially with no sealer, bad anti freeze. It is not common, but to be aware of. There is no ridge in the casting. The stud can also hit the impeller if turned to far. I prefer to clearance the stud so I can get most engagement of the threads, the boss is cut at an angle ,I do the same to the stud. I know this because I cracked one ,was not careful with lube and poor cheap off brand studs. No sleeve was involved.chad":1k8c3d1i said:
Would appear that I have a vacuum leak or don't have the pushrods adjusted properly. I can't get her to idle below 1000 rpm. And with the orientation I used on the carb, I can't get to the mixture screws with the valve cover on. I guess this is going to be a messy idle tuning process. It's going to be fun trying to resolve this. I have a sneaky suspicion that it's a leak around the base of my carb. I ran into some clearance issues with the valve cover once the gasket was put on there. I think I need another 1/8" of space and I bet this whole problem goes away. Might be a case where I need to break out the cigar and start lookin.
I have noticed some blow back up the carb at times when trying to start it. I think this points to a mis-adjusted pushrod. I'll be checking all of them as well. I think I'll back them all up a bit and see what happens. They're easy enough to adjust.
I have noticed some blow back up the carb at times when trying to start it. I think this points to a mis-adjusted pushrod. I'll be checking all of them as well. I think I'll back them all up a bit and see what happens. They're easy enough to adjust.
cr_bobcat":16y7eq5m said:
I have a couple different carburetor mixture adjustment tools semular to those in below links. That's what you will need to do the job with the valve cover installed. Good luck
carburetor mixture adjustment tools
http://www.motosport.com/product?pssour ... aQodffQFVQ
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/3714889506 ... noapp=true
Thanks bubba. I've been thinking about finding something like that. I'll have to take a look at what I've got at the shops nearby.
Does anyone have any experience with the 2100 and what the starting point should be for the mixture screws on the little 6? I could only reach one of the screws. I ran it all the way down (lightly) and backed it out 1.5 turns. Just wondering if that is the correct approach with this carb on these engines.
Does anyone have any experience with the 2100 and what the starting point should be for the mixture screws on the little 6? I could only reach one of the screws. I ran it all the way down (lightly) and backed it out 1.5 turns. Just wondering if that is the correct approach with this carb on these engines.
Yes that's the starting point (1 1/2 turns out) that is what I use on most carb's while doing a rebuild and before installing them. Final tuning is done on the car with Air Cleaner installed and the engine warmed up to operating temp and after the base timing is set. Good luck
Given how rough of a time I'm having with idle, I'd say that I either have a vac leak somewhere, the valves adjusted too tightly, or the mix screws out of whack. I'm pretty sure that the mix screws are both set to 1.5 turns. I didn't count when I ran the one in, but I think it's at 1.5 and I'll bet a shiny nickle the other one is too. So I would hazard to guess I'm looking at the other 2. Hopefully I can trick my brother into coming over tomorrow afternoon and I can get a couple things resolved.
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