Uusual Bearing Wear pattern

[cameljockey]

Hi
man it's been a long time but I'm done with
skool and now I work so yay!

I have finally begun tear down on a 250 ci six Ebay engine I bought a while ago that was "Rebuilt" and I found several things that troubled me.

Thing the first:
the main and rod bearings are all "STD" Ford Bearings which I think ought to have been replaced in any "Rebuild"

Thing the second:
Very unusual wear on the inner main bearing surface and similar wear on the thrust surface of main bearing number 5 as if there was acid in the oil or something

Thing the Third:
the thrust bearing on main number 5 has two notches or divets on the thrust surfaces that look improvised I wish I knew how to post pics.

none of the rod or main bearings were spun thankfully but they were extremely worn on the inside.

if anyone knows how to post pics please let me know.

I could not find anything about this and i don't know where else to post if this falls under another subject please let me know.

Keep Sixin'

Dan

 

[addo]

The thrust does have two oil reliefs as described. The other reason to use standard bearings, is if tolerances were close enough to not need resizing. People get funny about bearing clearances being perfect, then go all casual when it comes to fitting pistons.

 

[Lazy JW]

Being "STD" isn't particularly worrisome but being "extremely worn" is.

Some types of motor oil have a high sulfur content which can attack the copper components in bearing material. Dunno if that caused your problem or no.
Joe

 

[rhetor]

coolant in the oil will cause pitting in the babbit.

Could be improper break-in wear, ie not enough assembly lube, didn't prime the oil pump, etc.

 

[*Fordman*]

sometimes the word ebay and rebuilt don't always go together.

 

[XPC66]

coolant in the oil will cause pitting in the babbit.

Could be improper break-in wear, ie not enough assembly lube, didn't prime the oil pump, etc.

Coolant was my initial thought. It tends to attack the tin and antimony down to the nickel barrier.

 

[Does10s]

Cameljockey,
The "divets" are made by the bearing vendor. It helps distribute oil onto the thrust sides of the bearing. Perfectly normal.

"STD" bearings just means that our crankshaft hasn't be turned. You have a standard crank. That's a good thing! So long as you don't have deep grooves in the journals and you have .001"-.003" of bearing clearance, then leave it as-is.

I would assume that this engine has never been run; correct? I've seen some brand new bearings with "stains" on the surfaces. I'm not sure what they are (something in the plating baths maybe?) but I've never had an issue with them. I've never had a bearing failure...yet!
Later,
Will

 

[cameljockey]

Okay so it's been a while since I posted I think it fair to give an update:
First off Thank You all of you for your input on this and all other posts on this forum. It has proven an invaluable resource.
The bearings turned out to be in TERRIBLE shape; the material on the babbit was flaking off on the rod and main bearings!
This is a turbo motor! My goals include daily streetability and the occasional 1/4 mile thrashing. So Durability is EXTREMELY Important to ME.
I took the engine to a local machine shop with a good rep. I Ordered a main stud kit from CI and had it drop shipped there.
The following work has been completed:
+Crank:
-turned 0.010 and 0.010 (the journals were well worn and were tapered in some cases)
-machined for conversion to one piece rear main seal
-chamfered oil passages on main and rod journals
-cryogenically fully hardened
+Block:
-line honed main bores
-completely shot-peened and stress relieved
-removal of all casting flash
-machined rear main cap for conversion to one piece rear main seal
+Work remaining for block:
-bore and hone to .030 over (I got lucky it came in at STD bore 3.680 it was never bored over ) (rebuilt my FOOT)
-new cam bearings
+Reciprocating assembly:
-Pistons: (Ross forged pieces)
*SDF skirt coating
*TBC thermal coating on crown
*Chevy pins w/ double locks
*16cc dish and 0.010 in the hole for nominal 8.7 static CR
-Rods: (Still shopping looking at Carrillo right now)
*6.00 in (not a huge improvement on rod/stroke ratio but every bit counts I get 1.53 instead of the stock 1.50 I probably will not notice the difference at all the main goal here is Durability and 6.00 aftermarket rod blanks are more readily available for other motors it's a matter of getting the dimensions right. 0 offset, big end width, bearing housing etc)
*bushed for floating chevy pins
+Valve Train: (Hydraulic flat tappet for now)
-Cam (I have not fully Science-ed this out BUT I know my goal so I have a direction!)
*will roller cams ever become available (I have spoken to Crane / Comp / and Erson they all said the same thing ‘Nobody makes a roller cam billet for your motor’)
*What duration and LDA to use for a turbo motor? (for a Hyd flat tappet)
*CI head is in my plans around mid/late Feb 2009 purchase date
-Valve springs
*To beehive or not to beehive that is the question
*What are the benefits? Do they help durability? (I only know of 1 benefit valve train stability and therefore RPM potential but these motors do not like to rev past 6000 if we're lucky)
-Rocker arms (full rollers)
*Yella terras? or adapt something from another motor
*I am skilled in PRO-E so I can easily create an IGES file for a machine shop to make an adapter.
+TURBO:
I am still preparing some numbers that I hope to run past some friends of mine that I used to work with at Garret when I was an intern there.
- I think boost should come in around 3000-3500 RPM.
- In previous conversations they have suggested the GT3582r but IDK that is a rather medium / large turbo capable of supporting ALOT of power, would it be overkill?
+Induction
-Carb to start then Fuel injection by the end of 2009 if all goes well.
As you can see there is much I have to complete in the way of research for the valve train and turbo and I will be searching the forum for ideas as time permits. Say what you will I think this is a good, durable build that will hopefully handle what ever I can throw at it in the future (more boost, LPG Who Knows, I’m CRAAAAZY!). This is not the most economical Build but I am spreading the cost out; I have had this motor for 2-3 yrs and I have been saving for this.
ANY feed back is greatly appreciated!
Keep Sixin’