water temp sender hook-up…?
- Thread starter LaGrasta
- Start date
Im not quite clear on what has what wires on it and what has changed. Can you explain it differntly or take a picture?
The two wires, I think, are powered, right? They connect to battery or fan?? The single post coming from the thermostat switch in the thermostat housing goes to ground.
The thermostat switch when it reaches temperature completes the circuit by grounding out, so you wire the relay switch directly from power to the fan. When the thermostat reaches temp, it grounds out completing the circuit.
I'll draw up a wiring diagram on how i did mine. It took some doing but both fans work great now.
The thermostat switch when it reaches temperature completes the circuit by grounding out, so you wire the relay switch directly from power to the fan. When the thermostat reaches temp, it grounds out completing the circuit.
I'll draw up a wiring diagram on how i did mine. It took some doing but both fans work great now.
To be clear, I have two wires coming to the adj. temp switch. When the switch "clicks", it turns on my electric fan. I assume one is hot, one is ground.
I now have one wire terminal on the non-adj switch located in the thermo housing. When I remove the adj switch, where do I run the two wires that used to connect to the adj. switch?
I now have one wire terminal on the non-adj switch located in the thermo housing. When I remove the adj switch, where do I run the two wires that used to connect to the adj. switch?
This is how I wired up twin electric fans:
Credit where credit is due:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/efaninstall.htm
I figured it out using this site and borrowed from his images. Both turn on with the themostat and one shuts off with the key, the other turns off with the themostat.
Credit where credit is due:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/efaninstall.htm
I figured it out using this site and borrowed from his images. Both turn on with the themostat and one shuts off with the key, the other turns off with the themostat.
Okay, Ill admit I am a few beers deep at this point - but I also work with a lot of electrical systems.
And there is something fundamentally WRONG with that wiring diagram. Fan labled as "stays On" has + voltage applied to BOTH sides as drawn.
Not going to do a whole lot like that.
And there is something fundamentally WRONG with that wiring diagram. Fan labled as "stays On" has + voltage applied to BOTH sides as drawn.
Not going to do a whole lot like that.
It took me a few beers to wire everything up and a couple more to draw up that diagram. My 11 yr. old step daughter even drew the fans and soleniod for me. I'll double check it. It "stays on" if you turn off the key and eventually turns off when the motor cools down.
terminal 87 is power to the fans and terminal 86 is ground wire off the relay switch. The trouble with grounding that fan to chassis is that it wouldn't shut off once the thermostat switch compeleted the circuit because terminals 85 & 30 are wired to battery. So, I isolated that ground wire to the thermostat switch and it works as planned. To me that didn't make sense ??? if the the themostat switch breaks the circuit to the relay power should stop flowing, right? Maybe it's a faulty switch.
Also, that terminal 85 should have it's own 1 A fuse and not connected to the same 30 A as terminal 30.
I'll double check it again, trade relay switches, etc. to see what's up.
terminal 87 is power to the fans and terminal 86 is ground wire off the relay switch. The trouble with grounding that fan to chassis is that it wouldn't shut off once the thermostat switch compeleted the circuit because terminals 85 & 30 are wired to battery. So, I isolated that ground wire to the thermostat switch and it works as planned. To me that didn't make sense ??? if the the themostat switch breaks the circuit to the relay power should stop flowing, right? Maybe it's a faulty switch.
Also, that terminal 85 should have it's own 1 A fuse and not connected to the same 30 A as terminal 30.
I'll double check it again, trade relay switches, etc. to see what's up.
I liked the first schematic better. It would have worked as is, but I would have just grounded the fan (-) lead direcly to keep current low through the thermostat. And a dot should have been at the junction of the thermostat and the 3 other circuits it connects to.
The last schematic won't work. The (I) terminal on the starter solenoid goes to the coil (+) and isn't full ignition voltage when the starter isn't engaged. It draws through the resistor wire to the coil unless your ignition coil uses no resistor. You probably meant to have the battery & (I) terminal reversed.
The last schematic won't work. The (I) terminal on the starter solenoid goes to the coil (+) and isn't full ignition voltage when the starter isn't engaged. It draws through the resistor wire to the coil unless your ignition coil uses no resistor. You probably meant to have the battery & (I) terminal reversed.
Thanks for the tip. I fixed the dot.
The I, ignition, terminal has enough juice to kick on the relay switch. I'm using a DUI dist. so nothing is powered off the I terminal. Either way, it works. The car is still in the driveway, but I tested it twice and so far so good. Ran it for twenty minutes each time. Both fans kicked on at the same time once the motor reached temp. Turned off the car, one fan stayed on and eventually shut off when the motor cooled down; the other fan turned off immediately after I switched off the key.
When I grounded the fan labeled "stays on" to the chassis, it would not turn off even after the motor cooled or when I pulled the wire disconnecting the thermostat switch; it stayed on regardless. It finally worked as planned once I isolated the fan ground "-" to the thermostat switch. Ya, I am worried about pulling too much juice through the thermostat switch. Maybe it's a fault relay? cheapo relays from Summit. Do you think the thermostat switch will burn out?
Thanks for all your suggestions. Now I'm off to try and get 3 carbs to play nice together on a fresh cylinder head.
The I, ignition, terminal has enough juice to kick on the relay switch. I'm using a DUI dist. so nothing is powered off the I terminal. Either way, it works. The car is still in the driveway, but I tested it twice and so far so good. Ran it for twenty minutes each time. Both fans kicked on at the same time once the motor reached temp. Turned off the car, one fan stayed on and eventually shut off when the motor cooled down; the other fan turned off immediately after I switched off the key.
When I grounded the fan labeled "stays on" to the chassis, it would not turn off even after the motor cooled or when I pulled the wire disconnecting the thermostat switch; it stayed on regardless. It finally worked as planned once I isolated the fan ground "-" to the thermostat switch. Ya, I am worried about pulling too much juice through the thermostat switch. Maybe it's a fault relay? cheapo relays from Summit. Do you think the thermostat switch will burn out?
Thanks for all your suggestions. Now I'm off to try and get 3 carbs to play nice together on a fresh cylinder head.
I had hoped to do my thermostat switch swap this weekend, but my Chevy Van took a dump. I'm not sure, but I think the accelerator cable snapped. It's being towed this morning to the shop.
I'll get back on this maybe some evening this week. So is the last schmatic posted now accurate jahearne?
I'll get back on this maybe some evening this week. So is the last schmatic posted now accurate jahearne?
The 30 amp fused wire should go to relays common pole show as 30 and not the coil labeled 85. The 1 amp fused wire from the I terminal goes to the relay coil shown as 85.
That way the fan is powered by the battery terminal and the relay coil is powered by the ignition voltage that back feeds through the wire on terminal I of the solenoid.
Steve
That way the fan is powered by the battery terminal and the relay coil is powered by the ignition voltage that back feeds through the wire on terminal I of the solenoid.
Steve
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