Weird running problem.

[pedal2themetal45]

The loadamatic dists have a spring steel clip on the top of the dist shaft that keeps rotor snug , my guess is that its missing

Were do you get off on jumping on us who are trying to help this guy get his ALL STOCK 144 CU. car running with stock adjustments when then only help you offered is in the quote above
As stated you need to have a base line and for a stock motor I think that would be stock settings... dont you?? you have to have it running decent first before you start tweeking. But aparently you know everything (or think you do). If you not going to offer help then don't post... (DELETED BY MODERATOR)
Tim

 

[StrangeRanger]

Pedal:
Play nice. Just because you disagree doesn't mean you get to call him names

 

[pedal2themetal45]

believe me I was playing nice... LOL....
but when he does almost nothing to help and says he was trying to help like he had posted a lot of info help for this man and jumps on all of us that are helping just gets under my skin. The man has less the 60 posts and jumps on us with over 1,000 posts.... and talks like he knows it all.... Well enough said..
Have a good new year to everybody....
Tim

 

[addo]

I deleted two posts yesterday on this same thread.

One noted tendency of the internet is a trend for people to behave aggressively towards a point of view they don't agree with. Post count is of no consideration; consider how many posts the Julian Brothers or CHI Heads have here. Neither you nor I would likely disagree a whole lot with topical statements they could make.

Civil disagreements - rather than running people off - are surely a part of a civilised society.

Cheers, Adam.

 

[FalconSedanDelivery]

When the results don't fit the theory , go with the results and INVENT a new theory , or in other words The Book , ( as in stock settings ) WAS and IS not working for this guy ,Back in 1976 My 144 in my 62 falcon had me stumped ( I was 16 and took out the dist to go over it ) after putting it back in it wouldnt start , I was at Tech school and the instructer refused to help saying I could figure it out , He was right but it took a day of reasoning , turns out the dampner ring had slipped big time , SO STOCK SETTINGS WERE WORTHLESS !! , that was my point after seeing the SET IT HERE POSTS !!, He needs to find TDC and start there , as timing effects carb settings , but carb settings ( mixture )do not effect timing (base not vacuum advance ) the Old load-a-matics are extremely crude setups and most run better if you run a ton more initial and no Vacuum to them , its amazing how well an old 144-200 works at 18-25 initial ( thats also the total since the Vac line is disconeccted ) play with it till you have Hot start issues and set it as high as the starter / battery condition allows , this is of course after you verify true tdc

 

[Anonymous]

Ok, I'm about to pull my hair out now. :fume:

I finally get time to mess with it. I fire it up, it will only run half way choked now. So I'm having to try to set my timing and dwell with the vaccum advance unplugged and half choked. I gap my points to .025 and then i set my timing at 10*. Now it runs with 1/4 choke, I let it idle for a few mins and then check my timing once more. Well now the mark is half way around the pully. Why is it half way around the pully when all it has been doing is sitting there idleing?!?! I reset it all, let it run, come back and guess what, its gone God knows were on the balancer this time. How can I fix anything when my mark jumps everywere, I got to run the car choked and I can't find any vaccum leaks (tested with a guage) and my dizzy shaft isnt loose (my lovely expensive timing light says my dwell sits dead on w/e i set it at) so no slop in the shaft. So now what?!

 

[wallaka]

Well, sounds like your harmonic balancer is slipping like crazy. You have a single pulley on the crank, right? Use a Sharpie or paint marker (or whatever you have) and draw a line down the front of the pulley. Anywhere, it doesn't matter. Make sure it's all the way from the edge to down below the rubber. Then start it up and run it. If the line you drew doesn't line up anymore, it is slipping.

The cure, of course, is a new harmonic balancer.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the response, guess I'll get that sorted out now.

 

[addo]

The other thing that can happen (more common on big sixes) is the rollpin holding the distributor drive pin to the shaft, shears.

 

[woodbutcher]

Gee Addo.That happened to me coming home from Knoxville a couple of years ago.It was a simple repair to get me home.Used a piece of wire COATHANGER.Took about 10 minutes.Hehehehe.
Leo

 

[Anonymous]

Have already pulled dizzy and check the roll pin, so I guess that takes that out of the equation.

 

[pedal2themetal45]

Ok, I'm about to pull my hair out now. :fume:

I finally get time to mess with it. I fire it up, it will only run half way choked now. So I'm having to try to set my timing and dwell with the vaccum advance unplugged and half choked. I gap my points to .025 and then i set my timing at 10*. Now it runs with 1/4 choke, I let it idle for a few mins and then check my timing once more. Well now the mark is half way around the pully. Why is it half way around the pully when all it has been doing is sitting there idleing?!?! I reset it all, let it run, come back and guess what, its gone God knows were on the balancer this time. How can I fix anything when my mark jumps everywere, I got to run the car choked and I can't find any vaccum leaks (tested with a guage) and my dizzy shaft isnt loose (my lovely expensive timing light says my dwell sits dead on w/e i set it at) so no slop in the shaft. So now what?!

I think we need to back up some........ You state above
""my lovely expensive timing light says my dwell sits dead on w/e i set it at) ""
A timming light WON'T TELL YA THE DWELL ONLY THE TIMMING...

When you change the Dwell OR point gap it WELL change the timming......
I think your getting some stuff confused
Now I think the pont gap should be like .019 with a feller gage.... anyway with a DWELL METER (NOT A TIMMING LIGHT) it should read around 28 to 32 deg of dwell...... Then you set the timming with the RPM around 750. Then readjust the carb Idle and fuel mixture screw..... If its like my carb the idle and fuel mixture screws are on the passanger side of the carb and the choke Idle screw is on the driver side of the carb. The fuel mixtue screw is in the base plate of the carb. you could start with it about 1 & 1/2 turns out from lightly seated and adjust from their..... a little goes a long way when fine adjusting it... so screw it in or out an 1/8 of a turn at a time till you get best idle the reset curb idle screw to 750rpm. you may have to do this a couple of times to get it right.......
I think you might just have things way out of wack...... do you have a buddy that can help??
good luck keep us posted
Tim

 

[Anonymous]

I guess I should have specified. My timing light, does dwell, voltage and rpm, its digital.