So i'm back to chasing ghosts in my car, I know it not the carb cause I just got it back after pony carbs fixed everything that was wrong on it, even tested it for me on a real engine in a real car.
issue - can't idle cold, floods easily, takes for ever to fire, won't even putter when cold, when cold the exhaust "pops" as if gas didn't burn in cyl and now in exhaust and I don't go anywhere when I hit the gas, RPM guage is beserk!, DUI is tightened and still can be move/adjusted, oil leaks at the distributor hole, and my car isn't on the road yet (cause it can't run right). GOT LESS THAN 8 MPG LAST NIGHT freeway only!!! revs just fine but the second load is applied it DIES only a few feet away!!!
First, what can I use to keep that distributor from moving?
Second, I will try moving the long choke tube and wrap it around the header itself and see if that fixes my choke not working. (pony carbs confirmed that they had the choke working in shop perfectly) as suggested by pony carbs (so that's my error, I'll see IF that affects anything)
I want the idle to be less than 900 rpm but I can't get more than 6-7 vacuum @ 800 rpm and it dies, or I get 14-15 vacuum @ 1400 rpm and it just doesn't seem like its supposed to idle there...
my next step is to go back to basics, I'm going to try my LOM distributor with the SCV and see where that puts "dependability" cold or not. I have already replace the DYNA MOD in the DUI because it wouldn't start/run, now it does (minus above problems). I know some performance is hindered but I need it to go/drive and it wasn't (still isn't) doing that.
If the problems are still there then I'm going to degree my camshaft myself and see if the engine build shop even did it right.
I'm really sick of not haveing everything working together, I know its far from stock but the basics in tuning a car don't even work I can tune the car all I want when warm, but after it cools off, It don't run the same even after it gets back to that temperature I initially set/tuned it at!! ARRGG! :deadhorse:
issue - can't idle cold, floods easily, takes for ever to fire, won't even putter when cold, when cold the exhaust "pops" as if gas didn't burn in cyl and now in exhaust and I don't go anywhere when I hit the gas, RPM guage is beserk!, DUI is tightened and still can be move/adjusted, oil leaks at the distributor hole, and my car isn't on the road yet (cause it can't run right). GOT LESS THAN 8 MPG LAST NIGHT freeway only!!! revs just fine but the second load is applied it DIES only a few feet away!!!
First, what can I use to keep that distributor from moving?
Second, I will try moving the long choke tube and wrap it around the header itself and see if that fixes my choke not working. (pony carbs confirmed that they had the choke working in shop perfectly) as suggested by pony carbs (so that's my error, I'll see IF that affects anything)
I want the idle to be less than 900 rpm but I can't get more than 6-7 vacuum @ 800 rpm and it dies, or I get 14-15 vacuum @ 1400 rpm and it just doesn't seem like its supposed to idle there...
my next step is to go back to basics, I'm going to try my LOM distributor with the SCV and see where that puts "dependability" cold or not. I have already replace the DYNA MOD in the DUI because it wouldn't start/run, now it does (minus above problems). I know some performance is hindered but I need it to go/drive and it wasn't (still isn't) doing that.
If the problems are still there then I'm going to degree my camshaft myself and see if the engine build shop even did it right.
I'm really sick of not haveing everything working together, I know its far from stock but the basics in tuning a car don't even work I can tune the car all I want when warm, but after it cools off, It don't run the same even after it gets back to that temperature I initially set/tuned it at!! ARRGG! :deadhorse: