Where do I start?

[Anonymous]

Okay, first of all, thanks to all of you out there sharing your knowledge. I've spent a great deal of the last few days reading as many of the posts as I can. So, here is my question:

I have a pretty standard setup in my 66. 200 is from a '68 with 3.5 rear.

I'd like to change to the T5 and get more pluck from the engine. I'm not really looking to make a car to take to the track just something with a good deal more than it already has. Since I'm blowing a good bit of smoke and she's a bit tired already I figured I'd ask you guys now before a rebuild instead of after.
Will the T5 bolt right in or do I need to get a different bell housing?
Change to turbo or go with an offy setup?

Oh, and the million associated questions I should know to ask but don't!!

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks and I'll keep reading.

Out of Jacksonville FL if anyone is around here.

 

[barroom hero]

tell us what tranny you have and then someone here will be able to help you figure out what all you need for the t-5 swap, and check out http://www.inlinepages.com which also has alot of info on the t-5 swap.

 

[Anonymous]

I have a 3 speed on the floor. can't give you any numbers off it just yet.

Thanks for the reply, i really should have put that in there.

 

[CobraSix]

Here for T5 install (after you figure out what you have):

http://www.kastang.net/T5install.html

If you are taking the engine in for a rebuild, consider the following mods, money dependent:

1) 260-274* cam shaft ($120-200)
2) Double roller timing chain ($90)
3) milling the head (depends on shop)
4) Enlarge the valves (depends on shop)
5) roller tipped rockers ($300)

a cam shaft and T5 will really wake the car up.

Slade

 

[barroom hero]

do you know if the transmission is the original 3 speed from the mustang or if it was a later model? up until 66, a 2.77 non synchro tranny was used behind the 200's, and in 67 they changed it to a3.03 synchro. if you have the tranny out, count the number of bolts on the toploader plate, if you have 9 its a 3.03, if you have 4 (i beleive its 4, correct me if im wrong) you have the 2.77. hope it helps.

 

[Anonymous]

jme;

If you pull that engine down, do yourself the biggest favor possible and plan to DECK THE BLOCK. You might also consider milling the head to raise compression. However, because of the now-unavailable steel head gaskets that Ford used in these engines, you MUST deck the block so that conventional head gaskets will not destroy the quench height when you go back together.

Check the deck height, from the top of the edge of the piston(s) to the top of the block (when the head is off). You'll probably find this height to be in excess of .040", so IMO go for a deck-off of .030" to .035".

The most common head gaskets (Victor/NAPA) are about .040" to .044" thick when assembled. Fel-Pro gaskets are thicker yet, at .050" to .055" thick assembled. The original FoMoCo steel gaskets were .018" to .020" thick assembled. Simply bolting a Fel-Pro in where the steel one was can lower compression ratios from 8.4:1 to 7.6:1 (this happened to me!).
So, if you start by removing the extra thickness (i.e., the difference between the Ford gasket and the Fel-Pro or Victor gasket) from the TOP OF THE BLOCK before you start, all of the other parameters (quench, flow, shrouding, etc.) will fall into line with 'normal' hotrod wisdom. Then, when you alter other parameters, you will be comparing apples to apples.

You can find much discussion about this, especially in the Hard-Core Tech section, but after personally being stung by it, I cannot recommend decking the block strongly enough. After I 'fixed' mine (2nd teardown), the difference in power and gas mileage was WELL worth it!

One final $.02 worth, contact CZLN6 and get his EXCELLENT book on rebuilding and modifying these engines. It's worth far more than it's nominal cost, and it ACCURATE - something you don't often find regarding these engines.

Above all, come back during your rebuild. There's lots of good experience and advice here!

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks guys, for where to start. I had put a felpro in a couple of months ago hasn't been the same since. I'll go with the new cam and I'll call the shop today to find out about having the deck blocked and head milled. Any advice for the valves?

Think I'm going to sell the 64 1/2 for the cash to get started. Not the greatest car in the world but I should be able to get 2k or so out of it.

Stock pistons or bigger?

I know my questions are all over the place so please bear with me,

Oh, should I have the log set up for triples while it's in there?

Thanks again.