thesameguy
Famous Member
XFlow_Fairlane":3qmwu9ac said:
I think a reverse-flow cooling system would be great for an engine like this. Reverse-flow does wonders for both power and emissions, since you can run leaner with less worry about detonation.
200ci Electric fan install
- Thread starter 66comet202
- Start date
I think a reverse-flow cooling system would be great for an engine like this. Reverse-flow does wonders for both power and emissions, since you can run leaner with less worry about detonation.
66comet202
New member
69.5Mav":buv2jz8s said:
Thats a good price! I'm sure I can find a better price with time to research. As I didn't have any time, I took advantage of this radiator with the outlet on the wrong side.
According to the Ford Shop Manual the dimensions for the correct radiator is 17.38" H x 20.24" w x 1.27" D. The depth is the big concern, obviously, and with the ProComp electric fan I now have about 3/4" between the fan and the water pump pulley. I'd be concerned about anything less than that.
69.5mav- that's the radiator I've been thinkinga bout getting. it might be too thick for the 66comet, possibly my 65 mustang too. I've asked the seller for some more dimensions.
66comet202- question, what year did the v8 radiator come from, it would be nice to compare, on a side note, it would be possible to run two 12' fans on a that rad, and with them all offset, I bet the depth wouldn't matter. but I bet some fab is going to come out of it.
awesome work, I know how it is as a daily driver, keep up the good work! hopefully the temps will soon stop bouncing around.
66comet202- question, what year did the v8 radiator come from, it would be nice to compare, on a side note, it would be possible to run two 12' fans on a that rad, and with them all offset, I bet the depth wouldn't matter. but I bet some fab is going to come out of it.
awesome work, I know how it is as a daily driver, keep up the good work! hopefully the temps will soon stop bouncing around.
chopperman69
Well-known member
Guys,
Beware of those made in CHINA radiators Champion and others are peddling on ebay. I've got one in my Econoline and it finally works after I had to rebuild it. The brackets were wrong and the inlet and outlet were too big. Had to cut them out and weld smaller diameter ones in... They are really designed for a V-8, but that's none of us right?
Also, been reading some horror stories on this forum on a champion radiator that sprung a leak and their service has been horrible...
Beware of those made in CHINA radiators Champion and others are peddling on ebay. I've got one in my Econoline and it finally works after I had to rebuild it. The brackets were wrong and the inlet and outlet were too big. Had to cut them out and weld smaller diameter ones in... They are really designed for a V-8, but that's none of us right?
Also, been reading some horror stories on this forum on a champion radiator that sprung a leak and their service has been horrible...
chopperman69
Well-known member
Here's that thread I was referring to...
http://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t20599-champion-radiator-weld-leaking
http://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t20599-champion-radiator-weld-leaking
66comet202
New member
Thanks MPG! The radiator is from a '60s era Mustang, not sure. The guy who had it is a Brand X guy so I've no clue where it came from, how long he's had it, etc. I just know it is a new copper/brass radiator for a Mustang. I'm sure now that I have more radiator to work with two 12" fans would work. I bought the fan though with the smaller radiator in mind, so the ProComp was the choice.
The temps are looking good now! Once I get the A/C working again I can see what the temps are and adjust things accordingly.
My first concern though is highway driving temps. But I need to fluch the system one more time before I put in coolant/water wetter/etc. Once thats in place I'm fairly confident i'll be in good shape.
Now, if I can just figure out why its puking transmission fluid with the engine running.
The temps are looking good now! Once I get the A/C working again I can see what the temps are and adjust things accordingly.
My first concern though is highway driving temps. But I need to fluch the system one more time before I put in coolant/water wetter/etc. Once thats in place I'm fairly confident i'll be in good shape.
Now, if I can just figure out why its puking transmission fluid with the engine running.
66comet202
New member
Hey Chad!
I was concerned about the temp being 175-180 driving in city traffic as well. The thermostat is 185. I set the adjustable thermostat on the electric fan to 195 to raise the temp some. That helped but I was probably going to raise that a bit. Then I went to the A/C shop to get the compressor's electrical reconnected after the wiring issues. When it started working the high pressure of the AC System was dangerously high, so I needed to lower the fan's thermostat back to 180. Now I've got a vacuum issue with the doors in the evaporator case.
So, the temp is still an issue that needs resolved.
Happy belated b'day to your dad! Weather is already getting hot down here!
I was concerned about the temp being 175-180 driving in city traffic as well. The thermostat is 185. I set the adjustable thermostat on the electric fan to 195 to raise the temp some. That helped but I was probably going to raise that a bit. Then I went to the A/C shop to get the compressor's electrical reconnected after the wiring issues. When it started working the high pressure of the AC System was dangerously high, so I needed to lower the fan's thermostat back to 180. Now I've got a vacuum issue with the doors in the evaporator case.
So, the temp is still an issue that needs resolved.
Happy belated b'day to your dad! Weather is already getting hot down here!
The thermostat is 185. I set the adjustable thermostat on the electric fan to 195 to raise the temp some. That helped but
Sounds complicated 2 me. The A/C's addition to the mix is an unknown 2 me. Yet, still, sounds low. (Adjustable thermostat!, humm, like 2 hear bout it!).
Any probs surface wid dat temp re: motor runnin?
Tanx (w/turrets)...
Sounds complicated 2 me. The A/C's addition to the mix is an unknown 2 me. Yet, still, sounds low. (Adjustable thermostat!, humm, like 2 hear bout it!).
Any probs surface wid dat temp re: motor runnin?
Tanx (w/turrets)...
66comet202
New member
Oh, I meant an adjustable thermostat for the electric fan. I can adjust it for the fan to come on anywhere from 180 all the way to 240. I have no idea who would want it to come on at 240, but I guess there are cars on the street like that.
The thermostat for the engine is a 185. Once I get the AC working I'll make a decision about the temperature issue.
The motor runs good. I mean it does burn some oil, but I've got nearly no issues with it. OK, the front seal and the rear seal leak, the oil pan plug stripped out at some point and was replaced by one of those universal plugs. The transmission is blowing some fluid since I replaced the freeze plugs. Haven't had a chance to get under it and check the leak. Think its one of the cooler lines.
Always a work in progress.
The thermostat for the engine is a 185. Once I get the AC working I'll make a decision about the temperature issue.
The motor runs good. I mean it does burn some oil, but I've got nearly no issues with it. OK, the front seal and the rear seal leak, the oil pan plug stripped out at some point and was replaced by one of those universal plugs. The transmission is blowing some fluid since I replaced the freeze plugs. Haven't had a chance to get under it and check the leak. Think its one of the cooler lines.
Always a work in progress.
The motor runs good
Oh, OK. Humm, I have No, Zero automotive theory but somewhere picked up the idea that if running too cool probs developed (like 2 hot...). Thanks 4 the reply.
May B "too cool" never happens in the sunny south?
Oh, OK. Humm, I have No, Zero automotive theory but somewhere picked up the idea that if running too cool probs developed (like 2 hot...). Thanks 4 the reply.
May B "too cool" never happens in the sunny south?
66comet202
New member
I don't know for sure, but I think most engines need 190-200 degrees for the best operation. So, this is a concern for me. I'm making a 250 mile trip this weekend, so I'll really see how its performing.
So, this is a concern for me. I'm making a 250 mile trip this weekend
No probs yet @ that temp so I wouldn't worry...Just thought it might make a rich burn or something (not optimum mpgs, carbon build up, a lill dirty on the exhaust? Hey I don't know, all ways ready 2 learn tho).
Good luck, let us know how U do.
No probs yet @ that temp so I wouldn't worry...Just thought it might make a rich burn or something (not optimum mpgs, carbon build up, a lill dirty on the exhaust? Hey I don't know, all ways ready 2 learn tho).
Good luck, let us know how U do.
66comet202
New member
I'm right with ya. Its all a learning process. I'll keep good notes and let ya know what happens!
hey comet,
i've noticed that our engines like heat for mpg, I wnet from 20mpg to 16.5mpg by changing the t-stat from 195 to 180, granted i have the AC on, but I think it matters, I'm about to go up to go on a 1400+mile round trip and i'll place the 195 back in even tho It'll reach 210+ with the AC on and report my findings.
Keep up the good work!!!
i've noticed that our engines like heat for mpg, I wnet from 20mpg to 16.5mpg by changing the t-stat from 195 to 180, granted i have the AC on, but I think it matters, I'm about to go up to go on a 1400+mile round trip and i'll place the 195 back in even tho It'll reach 210+ with the AC on and report my findings.
Keep up the good work!!!
66comet202
New member
I haven't checked the MPG since the switch to the new radiator. I just filled up this morning and it seemed like lower MPG. I'm checking with the new tankful.
Thanks for the info MPG!
Thanks for the info MPG!
66comet202
New member
A bit late but my report from the long drive.
First a recap for those who don't want to read the entire thread. When i got the AC working in the Comet, the engine overheated immediately. I realized while researching that the radiator was not the right size for a '66 Comet with a 200 ci and AC. The one in the car when I bought it was about 3 inches narrower than the shop manual calls for. Not being able to afford one I tried an electric fan from Mustangs Unlimited. Its a ProComp 16-inch fan that works great! A good solution for those that don't want to hit the u-pull-it lots.
After installing the fan and a mechanical temp gauge, the freeze plugs started blowing out. They were still the originals and all of them needed replacing. Once I did that the radiator started leaking like a bucket under a waterfall. I was able to get a new copper/brass radiator that was the proper size at an extreme discount--FREE--, albeit with the outlet on the wrong side of the car. After fabbing two hoses together I've had no leaks or problems with that.
I had already driven around town for a couple of weeks and experienced no temps above 195; mostly they stayed around 185-190. So, last weekend I drove from Tampa to Cocoa Beach for the first stop of the HOT ROD Power Tour. On the way over the temp was 185 all the way. Not a hiccup at all. The outside was in the upper 90s so it was a pretty good test. On the way back the water temp was 195 all the way!!
Once I get the AC working this week I'll get some numbers on the temp, but I think I'll be in really good shape.
Now, If I could only get the engine to stop leaking oil through the pistons and the valve seals and the oil pan. Without having to pull it and rebuild it, that is. :rolflmao:
First a recap for those who don't want to read the entire thread. When i got the AC working in the Comet, the engine overheated immediately. I realized while researching that the radiator was not the right size for a '66 Comet with a 200 ci and AC. The one in the car when I bought it was about 3 inches narrower than the shop manual calls for. Not being able to afford one I tried an electric fan from Mustangs Unlimited. Its a ProComp 16-inch fan that works great! A good solution for those that don't want to hit the u-pull-it lots.
After installing the fan and a mechanical temp gauge, the freeze plugs started blowing out. They were still the originals and all of them needed replacing. Once I did that the radiator started leaking like a bucket under a waterfall. I was able to get a new copper/brass radiator that was the proper size at an extreme discount--FREE--, albeit with the outlet on the wrong side of the car. After fabbing two hoses together I've had no leaks or problems with that.
I had already driven around town for a couple of weeks and experienced no temps above 195; mostly they stayed around 185-190. So, last weekend I drove from Tampa to Cocoa Beach for the first stop of the HOT ROD Power Tour. On the way over the temp was 185 all the way. Not a hiccup at all. The outside was in the upper 90s so it was a pretty good test. On the way back the water temp was 195 all the way!!
Once I get the AC working this week I'll get some numbers on the temp, but I think I'll be in really good shape.
Now, If I could only get the engine to stop leaking oil through the pistons and the valve seals and the oil pan. Without having to pull it and rebuild it, that is. :rolflmao:
Congrats! Very cool....soon to be 'cooler' I for one will be interested to hear how it does with your A/C running. I'm already locked into a clutch fan conversion myself for an eventual A/C install. Are you running the old york/tecumseh style compressor or a sanden conversion? I'm still debating on mine...there's a fleabay seller with inexpensive new foreign made york/tecumseh models if the one I salvaged with the under dash system from a '64 fairlane does not work out...was working when salvaged and sealed the fittings for storage. Just curious...I understand the sanden/rotary style is not as much of a horsepower thief...but I think the old R12 systems cool the best vs the new blends (134a etc.).Good luck on your a/c hookup
EDIT: BTW valve stem seals can be changed w/o pulling the head using the old rope trick...and to lessen oil passing the rings I like using straight 30w oil...I don't like using the multi-viscocities in these old engines, which is not a problem in TX so shouldn't be in FL...and adding a bit of stp never hurts and it raises the zddp that older oils and these engines originally were intended for. One last thought is make sure your pcv is fresh...they're cheap...and that your breather cap or road draft tube is clean & clear.
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