250 build

[chad]

I assume the stang has an under hood fuse bx - Y not plant it there?
Keep as much of the metal fuel line as U can due to engine heat issues.
It's less flamable than rubber, is already the right shape and place...

 

[xctasy]

I know I have not been on here in a while. It's been crazy busy the past few months.
Quick update on the car:

Engine will be going in this week and plan on doing cam break-in by Friday.

The only things I need to workout is the final wiring for the MSD ignition control mod to the battery, running the fuel lines from the pump to the Carb, and the exhaust system. Still have the single exhaust hanging under, but I will be cutting that off this week and will be looking into installing some FM 40s, however, I need to get the engine in first.

A quick question on the fuel system for you guys. What is a good regulator to install and where is the best location to install it? I still have the metal fuel line for the 1bbl. I am thinking about just keeping that line on for ease and cutting it to length to work with the Holley street avenger.

I will make some videos and post them up when I am doing the break in for all you guys.

I assume the stang has an under hood fuse bx - Y not plant it there?
Keep as much of the metal fuel line as U can due to engine heat issues.
It's less flamable than rubber, is already the right shape and place...

Yep, factory tube all the way.

Go to a Mr Gasket or Holley or Malplasi close to carb regulator later on, or none at all if your running a 4-bbl Holley.


Hey, don't We get busy, and doesn't stuff happen?


Were all rootin for ya.

I love White L code Mustangs...My grandad and I did our first custom painted Mustang in 1974 from a previously Candy Apple Blue Matchbox dinky toy.


Mom taught I was mad, painting a dinky Polar White, but that's what we did.

I'm a Fox Mustang diehard, but grew up around the X shell Mustangs, and really cant stand to see one of them disrespected. Ford had some killer stuff planned for 1969, but they had to pay for Le Mans wins and a potential gas crunch which they new about in advance, and had planned for in the Pinto and Maverick...cars which saved Fords tush. The Fatter, Flatter Mustangs were a move into the Lamborghini Marzal, Jarama and Espada and De Tomaso LongChamps style of car, more dollars per pound.


One guy here from Ghent in Belgium had one, and like all who have really tried, conveted his 69 to the standard 351C 4v...

I lost my contracts, my work was out of kilter, I lost my Dutch speeking friends, it all came down...

For everyone in Ford, the in line sixes were a dead end development in the Ford Motor Company world, for such a simple engine, they sure require a special kind of something to master. And first time you get hit with a some dollar issues, they are the first to go.




See this car on his photobucket

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee3 ... 141279.jpg

Ken Van Accolyen

memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=166990
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee3 ... 141279.jpg

Its just kick ass tough now, and such a cedit to Ken, even though its now a Cleveland 351

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=70844

Right that year, Ford had budget constraints, and the whole producion line got dowgraded for cost reasons, thin wall C9 head castings, thin wall shell moulded blocks, the Toploader was soon to be downgraded, then the cast iron rods and the whole raft of changes to the Mustang X shell effectively killed anyones aspirations to bould a killer 250. Remember, 11 years of development gave us things like the 99 brake horsepower 21 second quarter mile 1980 Code Granada, a realiable, safe to crash vehicle, but one that that wouldn't kick a hole in a wet Kleen-X.


But even through they were potential death traps trying to pass anything on an interstate, I love them too,

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... a-question

but for Ford, the whole In line six thing was a 1941 anachronism, and never got the support it needed to florish. 60% or more of all Mustangs that have sold in volume have been SIX CYLINDERS...

What you are doing is simply melodic.


I wish you the very best...and enjoy meeting your goals. You are on the right track!


And spare a thought for us, our biggest selling vehicles are no longer tough as teak Aussie made US 200 and 250 based in lines, but Thailand built in line diesel 5 cylinder Australian Designed Rangers.

What happened with your car market in 1988 with the F truck supremacy happened in New Zealand in 1983 with little SR5 Tojo Trucks. But it killed off our industry. So Ford still rules, but no longer from an Aussie or Kiwi work force platform, and all our I6 advice and stories are just that, Historical accounts, no longer a fincial powerhouse when selling 145000 Fords a year. You just get over it, and find some cool people like yourself and 6226 of our members here.


I'd say eveyone of them would be giving you a thumbs up.


And thanks for buying some US stuff, and helping your industry. Its what its all about...

Support your US Ford industry, Matt Cox in Motor City Michigan on http://www.vintageinlines.com

And Enjoy your Stang! :NZ: z: :mrgreen:

 

[chad]

60% is a good ratio.
Fits 4 the bronk numbers as well I bet.
(1969) 240 tq at 1500rpm...
Wuz it 20 yrs in the Heep (four oh even)?
And what bout beemers?

Not to mention all the diesels.

 

[69stang_250]

These are the new photos I have.
Got my oil pan done and the short block together.
Got the cam installed and it came in one degree advanced when install and degrees get it. Recomend 2 degrees advanced on the cam card so we just left it as is.
Pistons come up .010 out at TDC. Not sure 100 % the dish size, but he does have the paper work from AUTOtech he is getting together for me.
The oil pan will hold an extra 1 1/2 qt and the baffle should help keep it in the sump.

More to come.

 

[bubba22349]

very good looking 250 short block and that oil pan looks really nice and should work very well! I would only suggest that you also have a small baffle installed across the front of pan sump for those times during deceleration / braking too. Good luck

 

[69stang_250]

Thanks very much! It's taken longer than it should have, but the car as a whole is coming together very nicely.
The only thing that I am remotely worried about with the engine is if it will run well on pump gas. I do plan on running octane booster for the first 1,000 miles and hope once I get away from it that there is no knocking or anything.
If I have to use it though I think I will still be ok with that.
This week the head should be done and installed, then we have to measure for pushrods.
I really hope I will be putting this engine in by Friday.

I was thinking about doing that with the oil pan, but what I have now will have to work.
I will be doing mods over the years with this car and at some point will build another engine and play around with things.
Within the next year or so I will be installing a fuel injection system in the car, but that will be the end of 2017 before I get to that. Have to do some real research on what the best rout to go with that.

The last things I have to do before the car is drive able is:

Install engine
Finish wiring the ignition system and alt ( need the engine in to make sure the wiring isn't too long or short)
Install carb and plumb fuel lines to the pump
Install radiator and wire electric fan
Install clutch linkage and measure for fork rod
Measure for driveshaft
Wire for engine and trans sensors and senders.
Install exhaust ( I am playing with the thought of side exhaust )

From there it's time to break in the cam and then the engine and clutch.
I really hope I don't run into any issues with anything over the next few weeks.

 

[chad]

Thanks very much! It's taken longer than...
This week the head should be done and installed...
I really hope I will be putting this engine in by Friday.
Within the next year or so I will be installing a...
I really hope I don't run into any issues with anything over the next few weeks.

Hey, takes as long as it takes. You got ur eyes on (a good) prize.
Go along at the speed which continues ur great plan & you'll B much happier
than 1 that's rushed. Very pleased to B invited on ur journey! Mine's been 33 yrs
and just now makin progress (it's been a wrk vehicle & makin $, soon 2 retire 2 my daughter).

 

[69stang_250]

Update on the build:

Head is asymbled and on the engine, now waiting for the push rods to come in. They came out to 9.050 long.
They should be in Tuesday and then ready to roll putting the engine in the car and breaking her in.

I will have more pics to post next week.

 

[chad]

(a test stand would B nice 1st)
Est possi`ble ?

 

[69stang_250]

It would be nice, but neither myself or the machinest has access to one.
I am shooting for having the engine and trans installed by the end of next week and break in completed.
Once that is done, all the fine tunning will be underway.

 

[chad]

good - on ward and up word!

(BTW: real easy to make up, I use angle iron)

 

[69stang_250]

Here are some of the new pics I have of the car.
Have as much of the interior that I'm going to get done for a while.
Radiator has been fitted and I have found that I've got to do something to the upper radiator mount to fit with some sort of insulators between the tanks and mounts. I just wired up the fans today, hooked them up to the bat, and put the sensor in a boiling pot of water. The fans kick on at 198 and takes about 10-15 seconds to kick off once I take it out of the water. The controller kicks the fans on gradually so it's not really like turning on a light switch and power surging through. Should be fairly easy on the electrical system.

Also, i did some measuring from the front of the radiator to the first bolt hole on the motor mounts in the engine bay. There is 16" between the two and on the engine, 12" between the first bolt hole on the block and the tip of the water pump. The fans are 3" thick giving me roughly an inch between the engine and fans once installed. Hope this helps people out if they ever do the ford contour fan mod.

 

[69stang_250]

One other thing, I am installing a 1 wire alternator if anyone looks at the engine bay and wonders where the volt regulator is.

 

[chad]

lookin G O O D bra!

 

[69stang_250]

So I gout out there today and had hopped to be installing the engine this morning............. But, we forgot to take into account of the dipstick when putting in the oil pan baffle. After getting that fix and put back together it was a little too late to put in the engine.

Here are some pics of where we are at with the project so far.
Hope you guys enjoy.

 

[drag-200stang]

 

[chad]

"Hope you...enjoy."
All ways!
Thanx, I luv pic!

 

[69stang_250]

So if it isn't one thing it's another lol!
I have the engine in and everything installed as of right now. Just have to get a u joint for the rearend of the drive shaft and then I can put fluid in and break in the engine.
I do have a question for y'all though.
How much room should I have between the carb choke cap and the shock tower?
If you look at the pics I have about 1/4 between the cap and the tower. Should I try to move the engin over or shave down the intake for clearance?

Hope you guys enjoy!

 

[drag-200stang]

You will probably need some more room. What I had to do to limit eng torquing over and fix broken mounts was to install a torque strap. Go from the driver side front upper block boss down to the sway bar frame area. Use brackets, chain, cable, flat stock, turn buckle hiem what ever works for you. Forget that vibration BS they talk about, it will be smoother especially if you use chain or cable. Remember to add some pre load on it. I wish I did this be fore I put the fan thru the hood.

 

[69stang_250]

I saw something like that on the CI web page. I will plan to add that soon.
I just went through the pics on the old web site and I have the same room as the 69 mustang on there.
Not sure if I will do this just yet, but I may take the crab flange off and shave a little more off of it to help with hood clearance. I do plan on denting the air cleaner I have also to help.