250 build

:unsure: :wow: how do they even fit the Aluminum head and intake into one of the early body's with their narrower engine compartments (1960 to 1966)? Maybe using the manual type choke linkage would give you a little more room or else a little hammer work to the top of shock tower. It sure is looking great! Good luck :nod:
 
I honestly have no idea lol
It may, but I'm gonna see if I can fix that clearance issue.
That has been the part that's slowed me down the most.
I had to cut the front of the electric fans to clear the water pump pully and now it's just trying to clear the shock tower.

Thanks! It's been a lot of work, but I am seeing the light at the end of the tunnel!
 
Could you slot the motor mounts to side it over some? I also think the torque strap is a great idea. Your detail work is first rate! (y)
 
bubba22349":30lsy0ju said:
Could you slot the motor mounts to side it over some? (y)
Click to expand...

reminds me of my "raise the hood' archive. not sure it helps here. 1 or 2 from it:

3) hard mount (not recommended) ie the tower/mount w/o the rubber between;
4) non oem mounts (late Maverick), or custom mounts;
6) slot the mount, or spacers at the motor/mounts area;
 
Looking good man! for some clearance for the choke, you could put a shim under that side motor mount, a piece if 1/4" plate with a hole in it, should do... If it was my car, I would make the clearance by putting a dent in the tower with a big hammer, but I understand many people would not want to go that route ;-)
 
... great to follow the many details needing research and attention with this and every unique performance build.

IF it's only the choke cap, consider removing the choke hdwe' altogether unless a lot of cold start idling is anticipated. Big squirter carbs typically don't need much cold enrichment if you are on the pedal. (KISS)

With the Holley 2300, I was able to cut the standard triangle carb filter down and gain another inch or so of hood clearance for hi-rise carb setup.

. .

have fun
 
Rich- I may be using that shim idea, but wouldn't that also raise the engine up 1/4 inch?

Powerband- did you trim the screen at the. Bottom? I was thinking about that, I've just been worried it would interfere with the choke flap.

Oh other thing I'm thinking about doing is taking a little more off the intake flange to help with the carb clearance. I got 1/8 taken off the carb adapter already. I may take a little more off if I need.
 
69stang_250":3sgiva8t said:
Rich- I may be using that shim idea, but wouldn't that also raise the engine up 1/4 inch?

Powerband- did you trim the screen at the. Bottom? I was thinking about that, I've just been worried it would interfere with the choke flap.

Oh other thing I'm thinking about doing is taking a little more off the intake flange to help with the carb clearance. I got 1/8 taken off the carb adapter already. I may take a little more off if I need.
Click to expand...

The mounts are at an angle. will move it up 1/8th and over 1/8th
 
She runs!!! And sound mean!!!! Lol
So during the break in we were a little busy and I couldn't get a vid made to put up, but will do very soon.

Now for the problems.

1. I have a mini starter put in and it will not turn over from the key. Have to jump it from the solenoid.
Any ideas what may cause this? I will be calling American auto wire tomorrow and seeing if they may have an idea.

2. Couldn't get the engine to idle between 900-1000 rpm. Going to set timing in the morning and see if we can get it dialed in. I know that I have read 12* is what it should be set at, however, the engine didn't want to run with any more than 6* before the rebuild. What would you guys suggest starting with?

3. I will be going to a manual choke, as the electric made contact with the shock tower and is no longer in one piece.

Those are the only issues I have ran into.
Oh and btw. If you guys switch to a mini starter and you are running a MT just ask for a starter from a ford 3.8 v6.
The one I ordered on line had too short a snout and wouldn't engage.

Here is some info on the headers on the 250. They are a very tight fit and you will want to put a heat shield around the starter, but they will work.

I will be hanging the exhaust probably tomorrow or the next day. Idk how those FM40s will sound, but man does the engine sound great right now!
 
I didn't get a chance to make up anything for a torque strap yet.

Today we got 17 minutes on the cam break in, heard a metallic bang, and lost oil pressure.
One of the rockers seized on the shaft and broke, along with bending a valve, push rod, and blew the guts out of the lifter.
I can honestly say today has been a very rough one after that happened.
But, we have all the parts on order and will be putting the engine back together very soon and will finish her up I hope.
 
Sorry about your troubles :(

Seams odd, what valve ? exhaust or intake, what cylinder?....Hope you can solve this so it does not happen again.
 
Diagnosis?

oil mot running the shaft (inside?)?

Pistons OK?
crank & cam (bearings too) ?

Sorry, glad U stopped B4 even more dammage.
(y)
I'm rootin 4ya, bro!
 
So the engine is coming back out and we are going to check everything and look for the lifter guts.
We have a feeling that the rocker that seized wasn't getting enough lube on the shaft. This could be too tight of tolerance or maybe a bur on the rocker shaft. All of the other rockers move very smoothly on the shaft, which is why we think that one rocker was the issue.
It was the intake rocker that broke and that valve did kiss the piston, but looks like the piston is ok.

As of now just have to replace:

Intake valve
Push rod
Rocker assy
Lifter

We will see if there are any bearing damage one we pull the pan.

In case anyone is wondering we had 60psi of oil pressure while on the maintenance stand and while we were running it. One that rocker broke we lost oil pressure. After removing the head, we spun the oil pump and was getting more than enough oil to the oiling hole on the block deck.
 
also glad U used the stand.
Got a magnafining glass?
:x
(for the burs you mention)
Boy, that's tough news, like your attitude tho:
"on to the next". I agree,
2nd time's "a charm!" You'll get it this time!
Just keep your eyes on that end result-
an alu head 250 w/great carb...
 
Lol no I didn't have it on a stand. It was in the car, but now that everything is fitted and all new wires ran, it will go back together very smoothly.
Just waiting on the USPS to deliver the intake valve and then we are back in business.
I ran the rest of the exhaust yesterday and need to do a few adjustments out back, but I'm sure this time we will be able to hear while we seat the lifter and tune the engine.

I will be heading out of the country tomorrow, but will be back next Saturday to install the engine and get her running again.
 
"...and get her running again."
(y)
good luck, let us know.
Pleasant journey!
 
So I just got done with a long day of putting the engine back in the car and getting her ready to run again.
When I put the engine back in I think I kicked it over to the drivers side a little. Now there is a little more room for the choke, but the vacuum secondary( not sure the proper name for the component) is a little closer to the export brace.
I will not be pulling the engine back out to fix this. I plan on trimming the brace to clear the carb.
Have the mufflers forward hung and fitted. That took some working to get everything to fit right, but I have it all ready to go. Now just fingers crossed that there is no issues when we do the break in again.
After that, retorque the head and header, fit the clutch fork rod that I made and head to get the front end aligned and have fun driving her around.
Oh yeah........ And I've gotta get my heater box done. It got a little on the clod side here in the states while I was gone.
I don't think I want to drive a car without a heater ever again lol

I will have the final pics and a video put up here soon.
 
better luck this time...
 
So I got the break in done with no issues yesterday and will be doing some tunning today on it.
Have to pull the carb and trim the export brace a little to clear the vacuum secondary and then try to get the air cleaner to clear the hood once I put it on.
I think the last few things I have to do is put some tail pipe hangers on and then put my heater box back in the car.
It's been a little too cold to not have a heater in the car lol.

I am trying to figure out how to post a vid and once I get it done I'll attach the link on here.
I have to say that I love the sound with the flowmasters. It's got that deep rumble to it and I'm sure it will sound great when I get the carb tuned.
 
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