250 build

69stang_250":32f6zvie said:
To be honest, I use to help my dad change rear main seals on 302's all the time when I was younger. After having a long conversation with him last night. His suggestion was to just use the 2 piece seal, remove that pin in the main cap and off set the seal 1/4 inch. Seems to be the standard to prevent leaks on these when I talk to older mechanics. So I think ill just stay with the 2 piece seal.


+1 also ad a bit of silicone sealer to the ends either ultra black or I like copper stuff the best.
Also a small amount on the main cap mating surface.
 
X2 I haven't ever had a problem with a two piece seal when installed and correctly clocked 1/4 inch.
 
so - clocked such that 1/2 in one & 1/2 in the other (by a 1/4 inch) of the 2 mating surfaces?
Gotta B careful when slappin the 2 together, eh?
But if U dab some snot in there it'll rip the gasket when parting them again? ( humm...I guess that's no big deal, wasn't thinkin).

Actually I'm right at this step myself so appreciate the clues to this puzzle.
 
Yep a quality 2-piece properly installed will probably hold very well.

Strange that the engine manufacturers have not much used 2-piece seals since the 80s.

My experience with rear main seals only covers less than 100 built engines so that may be too small a quantity to make decisive conclusions, but among those I feel the 1 piece seal still works better.
 
:hmmm: IMOP vis that the main reason the factory started going to the one piece seals was to speed up engine assembly a little. i.e. Less time saves them some money. :nod:
 
'S all beddah den rope, no?
 
69stang_250":1of347jo said:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8p2JX_22cCg

Watch at 6:33. They explain the seal.


RIGHT ON!!
That's my video!

Pops knows his stuff for sure...
pikesan
 
That is awesome man!
I watched that and then talked to my dad about it. He said y'all were spot on about that.
My dad has been a mechanic since the mid 70's and I can't tell you how many engines I watched him build when I was a little squirt lol

Did y'all make another video finishing the build?
 
pikesan":yjjo5rtq said:
69stang_250":yjjo5rtq said:
Pops knows his stuff for sure...pikesan

Thanks 4 ur post/VID. It wuz helpful, looked like U guys were havin fun.
Now back to your regularly scheduled show.
 
69stang_250":tng8fm17 said:
http://s1166.photobucket.com/user/cliftondgerald/library/?view=recent&page=1

Here is the link to the pics on the intake and head components.


Nice. Often asked questions about posting photos....


Copied on paste bar beside "Direct" in Photobucket.Don't use ""(66 and 99) like I have
"http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q618/cliftondgerald/CI%20AL%20head%20and%20intake/IMG_1023_zpsppgvh2bc.jpg"

Write this http protocol

"[img][/img"
Then paste twice at the spots marked X
" X [/img[/url]"


Then add "th_" after the last slash"/"

"[url=http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q618/cliftondgerald/CI%20AL%20head%20and%20intake/IMG_1023_zpsppgvh2bc.jpg][img]http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q618/cliftondgerald/CI%20AL%20head%20and%20intake/th_IMG_1023_zpsppgvh2bc.jpg [/img[/url]"



[url=http://fordsix.com//viewtopic.php?f=1&t=66238&start=50]/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=66238&start=50[/url]
[quote="xctasy":tng8fm17"][quote="Mustang_Geezer":tng8fm17"]I must say I'm getting tired of the image restrictions.....

After 30 minutes of work I'm at 595x443 and it still wont let me post a picture of the radiator.... :evil: :evil: :evil:


[quote]Your images may only be up to 450 pixels high.
Your images may only be up to 600 pixels wide.[/quote]

I guess you'll have to use your imagination on the last picture!

One last try...A wee tiny little pic of 500xsumthin :bang:

[quote]Your images may only be up to 450 pixels high.
Your images may only be up to 600 pixels wide.[/quote]

[url=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v242/Mustang_Geezer/HPIM2286.jpg][img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v242/Mustang_Geezer/th_HPIM2286.jpg



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v242/ ... IM2286.jpg[/quote]


Been there, done that.

The solution is a bit tedius, but Addo and Asa showed me how. "Just" run the main image copied twice, then spend time changing each image to thumbnail.


The rule is there is fix total cost of the powerboard package. Although a real bear, it fixes the time taken to start up each page.



Then they can be as big as you please. Two things. You have to save periodically, and secondly, you have to have no one else within 50 feet, becasue if you get confused with all the image syntax, you'll swear like a mad man.

[/quote]
 
Here are some pics of the tear down.
The cylinders still have the cross hatch in them and Pistons look good, however, #6 had a broken combustion ring.
All bearings look good, other than one spot on the #1 main cap bearing. It had a small paper thin area worn in the bearing.

I will add more soon.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    707.4 KB · Views: 156
  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    800.8 KB · Views: 156
  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    54 KB · Views: 156
  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    40.6 KB · Views: 156
  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    48.9 KB · Views: 156
  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    49.7 KB · Views: 156
  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    54.7 KB · Views: 156
  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    46.7 KB · Views: 156
  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    43.1 KB · Views: 156
  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    63 KB · Views: 156
Have you called Autotec about pistons?

They can make you a set of forged 4032 alloy pistons to your specifications in the $400 range.
The pistons will be a lot lighter than stock.

It will also give you the option to use the longer 300 rod to reduce piston weight even further
and increase the rod to stroke ratio for less piston to wall side loading.

I was able to reduce the 300 piston and pin weight from the stock 819 grams to 575 grams with the Autotec piston.
I used the longer 240 rod with the 300 crank.
 
The DynoSim shows 248 hp at 4500 rpm and 333 ft lbs at 2500 rpm.
I find this program to be conservative on the upper end of the power band.

Thats with the Non ported Aluminum head flow specs.
274/274 cam with 110 LSA
10:1 compression ratio
Open Headers
High flow intake manifold

The 274 cam shows very close to producing max torque for your combination.
Max horsepower requires more duration.
 
I have not contacted them. I just docked from the cruise I was on and saw the AL head was delivered to my place. Once I get the head together and cc it, I will know a little more on which Pistons to go with. I will look into the cost of using what available and going with forged pistons and another rod combo. Going with forged Pistons may be a little out of range, but will see.

Honestly, if I can get just over 250hp at the fywl I will be pretty happy with the engine.
I found a vid on YouTube a week ago with some engine builders making 311 hp with a for small six. Doesn't give any information on the internals, but down the road I hope to get there.
 
I just picked up the head from the usps. Looks good other than a small blemish on the #4 CC, but other than that, It is very nice. I will be doing a little cleaning up of the intake and exhaust bowls and runners, but nothing to extreme.
Once I come back from 2 weeks in Louisiana I will be getting the head assembled.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1037.jpg
    IMG_1037.jpg
    128 KB · Views: 125
  • IMG_1038.jpg
    IMG_1038.jpg
    130.1 KB · Views: 125
  • IMG_1039.jpg
    IMG_1039.jpg
    113.9 KB · Views: 125
  • IMG_1040.jpg
    IMG_1040.jpg
    131.4 KB · Views: 125
  • IMG_1041.jpg
    IMG_1041.jpg
    117.1 KB · Views: 125
So, I just dropped off the head for assembly, port polishing, and all that good stuff. From what the guy has told me, the guy that ports and polishes his heads learned building engines with smokey Yunick back in the day. The work I saw that he had done on some of the heads in the shop, he does very very nice work.
Gonna be 4-6 weeks till I get it back, but I was happy to see how excited this guy was to take on the machine work for my engine.
After talking with him, he is very adamant about using JE forged pistons vs speed pro or any stock pistons and decking the block.
He told me he could get them in the $500 range for my engine. Good deal?

Also, I am weighing my options on rocker arms. I will be contacting rocker arms unlimited and seeing what they have and price ranges.
The yella Terra rockers look very nice and I am sure would work awesome with my build, but if I end up going with the forged pistons
my budget will not allow for them at the moment.
Would you guys go for the forged pistons and an alternative rocker? or go with cast pistons and the full roller rockers?

Thanks yall!
 
Back
Top