'76 F250 Turbo Build

Will high impedance siemens deka 107961 60 lbs. 630cc work? They say they idle well on the smaller grand national engine.
 
The Siemens Deka 107961 60# injector has a Minimum linear PW: 1.5 ms
The ACCEL 150144 - 44# Hr Fuel Injector has a Minimum linear PW: 1.22 ms

The Accel 44# injector will have a minimum linear injector flow rate that is 40% less than the Siemens Deka 60# injector.
The Accel injector will be better at providing a stable idle and very low rpm injection flow.
 
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Paul, you are not helping me get rid of the physically too long inj. for what I am doing.;) The vender wrongly sent me, when I ordered short length. :banghead:
 
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I was just kidding you, of course you know that. I tried to send them back to Canada but could not get a received sig. through the US mail, only thing near me. I figured that I would end up with a shipping bill, no money and no injectors. Like what usually happens to me. The money does not bother me, it is the jerk around that does.
 
Will a stock style fuel rail support the flows needed for that size Injector, or would I be looking for a made to fit rail?
I don't know how much fuel flow the stock rail will support before seeing a significant pressure difference from one end to the other.
If you want to be sure that all injectors see the same pressure, I would use a larger rail.
You will need a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator at the return end of the rail.
 
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Found success with the late model EFI aluminum thermostat housing. its shaped a bit different than the carbureted cast iron unit, and it clears the Aussiespeed valve cover.

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I also noticed the heater hole in the promaxx head is ever so slightly misaligned. Shouldn't be enough to cause any issues, especially since it is just the heater line.

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Engines looking Great! with a little grinder work to taper the Head's inlet and that Heater / T Stat Bypass Hole will work great.
 
Found success with the late model EFI aluminum thermostat housing. its shaped a bit different than the carbureted cast iron unit, and it clears the Aussiespeed valve cover.

Funny to see this. I had the same problem. I put on an old thermostat housing and thought I made a mistake with the VC design until I remembered the taller housing.

VC to water spout.jpg
 
Yeah it's my second design. The first one had smaller fins closer together but the foundry had to much trouble getting a clean mold off the patterns.
 
Not too much to update at the moment;

  • I finally remembered to order the screws to plug thr thermactor holes, so that's done. And I've sent the oil pan off for a quick sandblast (it had been cleaned at the engine shop, but I didn't get around to painting it right away so it started rusting).
  • I got final measurements done and the part modeled, so I'm going to be sending out an order for the oil pump spacer here soon as well.
  • I was a bit surprised to find shops really close to me that specializes in aftermarket EFI tuning (including MS), and another race shop that was stoked to work on turbo exhaust/charge pipe routing, and would be willing to make the upper intake plenum.
  • I'm looking to order up my new fuel tank soon, I'm getting one from a company that specifically makes an under bed fuel tank for my Highboy (thanks for the narrow frame Ford), that will be prepped for an in-tank fuel pump. I wanted to keep usability of the in cab tank since that's part of the uniqueness, but a pump in that tank would be too loud, and having dual tanks and an external fuel pump sounds like a hassle.

I had grabbed a new oil pickup tube off Summit Racing, based on a '76 F250 application it spit back the Melling 74-S1 pickup, but it doesn't look right. Seems like it's more for an oil pan with a mid sump, while mine is a rear sump. The Melling 74-S2 for the late model trucks looks a lot closer to what I think it should look like, but I'm not sure what the oil pans on those look like. Can anyone confirm?

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You are correct.
The short pickup you show in hand is for the mid sump pan.
The Melling 74-S2 is for the rear sump and the rear support bolts to the 5th main cap.
You will notice that one of your old main cap bolts has a stud sticking up from it that the support bolts to.
 
In the true spirit of engineering, I probably spent more time and money solving the oil pump spacer problem than I needed to, but it was for a couple reasons.
1. Gave me an excuse to buy a copy of Solidworks Creator Edition, and allow me to dust off my CAD skills that I haven't used since college a couple years ago
2. Test run of parts from an online service called SendCutSend that does mail order laser cutting, bending, etc for relatively affordable pricing.

Overall, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. Modeling was the most tedious process in trying to pull dimensions off the pump and gasket with just a set of digital calipers and no flat edges to reference off. One of my hole dimensions was slightly off (the one that goes over the collar on the pump), which required a bit of filing to fit.

I ultimately ordered 3 thickness - mostly to meet the order minimum - 0.119, 0.250, and 0.375. I thought for sure the quarter inch would be the one and almost didn't get the thicker one, but glad I did because the 3/8" thick was the winner.

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(hard to tell, but there is clearance to the stud).
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I also got the oil pan sandblasted and painted. It was cleaned up at the machine shop, but I didn't do anything with it for a while so it started rusting. Quick blast took it right off
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I ultimately ordered 3 thickness - mostly to meet the order minimum - 0.119, 0.250, and 0.375. I thought for sure the quarter inch would be the one and almost didn't get the thicker one, but glad I did because the 3/8" thick was the winner.
What will you use for a longer hex drive for the oil pump?
 
What will you use for a longer hex drive for the oil pump?
Likely just order some hex bar stock and trim to length. I don't remember what size it is off the top of my head, but I remember it being pretty standard
 
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