Building a 200 First build

rather a bear head & then it set up for a known (modern) cam plus machine to specific specs, no?
(right springs, bigger valves, etc, etc. We just want the larger log volumn these have)
oh, aright - they have hardened seats in some cases (some of us don't need), right valves.

These heads R 4 oem cam?
 
Econoline":2uh3nm22 said:
The issue would be compression, they may need milled more than they are.

would measure the cc it then place on a fresh engine? I thought the top (springs, + ) hadda match the cam…

Thanks ~
 
I looked at other items that the Amazon seller has listed. The reviews are iffy at best. Some say perfectly fine other say bad. Roughly 50/50 crap shoot. 6 one way, half dozen the other.

Any o'rierly's in my area list the head as out of stock and no nearby wearhouses have one. Same with Napa.
I'm trying to contact Ranchero63 about his d8 for sale in the for sale section. I'd still have to mill for CR and possibly change springs to match my cam.

What is the benefit of using a one piece spring retainer from the 4.0 v6?
 
One of the posters here also sells heads on ebay, 1hotvega. Very knowledgeable and helpful.He can build the head to your specs, mill it for your desired compression ratio and ship it to your door.

His email is
hotvega73@yahoo.com
 
Back on track finally. Buying ranchero63's 78 head.

Planing on using sealed power pistons and moly rings 30+. From summit.
I'm looking for bearings, unknown size right now. I would prefer to use cleveite( if I recall they are the better brand), but unsure where to purchase. Usually sources like summit jegs and local chain stores are no go. Vintage inlines has a listing but is out of stock. Usually I only find sealed power bearings
 
Summit has them. Rod bearings at least. I got clevite 77 rod bearings from them. I got my main bearings from rockauto
 
"…Vintage inlines…"
be patient - he picked up where Will left off - just last wkend. He will be 'catering' to us (falcon motors). Not up to speed yet.
I'm hopin he'll get to the CI level at some point.

From my vantage point (outside the wall) - right now it looks like he's filling the ol Waldron exhaust referrals Mike used to give for all the CI stuff & will build on that. Every r3equest U make will build his capacity 8)

GO Matt!
 
I always check RockAuto first. http://www.rockauto.com

This is the cheapest place to find general parts like that. I just looked and I see MAHLE / CLEVITE SH703S Full Set (1 set left) listed for $20.
 
I'm aware that vintage is still rebuilding. I appreciate his effort to continue to serve us and his passion. He still has my business.

With the rockauto listings I see some listed as tri metal and some as aluminum. I have no idea as to the difference. Are they referring to the bearing backer? Or try bearing surface. I was only aware of the tri metal variety, steel then copper then babbit.
 
"…I'm aware that vintage is still rebuilding. I appreciate his effort to continue to serve us and his passion. He still has my business…."
glad 2 C it.
May B we can make it happen along w/him?
Let's alll give it a try and see in the fullness of time and "clubness" (not a wrd, eh?)
 
new to me head has showed up, happy as can be.

Soucing the last parts now, couple of questions,
What is the diffrnece in 1978 and 1969 main bearings, rock auto, and CI list them as diffrnet parts.
arp rod bolts are just off the shelf, 289/302 rodbolts, RIght
Finally whats the best way about getting arp bolts or studs for the head and mains, ( maybe overkill, but means they will last.)
Cylinders are +.030" which i believe is 3.71, 3.68 + .030"
Pistons will be ordered off of summit, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-2 ... /make/ford
Rings willl be from summit, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-e ... /overview/

Thanks again, Chris
 
Dragonlich1961":16w0ibef said:
Rods are a definite, just confirming which ones to get, plain old ARP 289/302 rod bolts right.

Thanks Chris
follow that link above... they actually sell the same rod bolts in a pack for v6 (cheaper and does not have extras)
 
Just read that, oops. The listing for the 200 head kit actually pops up on ARP's site as main kit.
If I recall this is because a 250 uses the same bolts for the head and main. And the 200 uses different bolts for the head and mains, but the same head bolts as the 250.
Just checking, since nobody said anything about it being a wrong link.
Thanks, chris
 
Dragonlich1961":1euv2n2z said:
Just read that, oops. The listing for the 200 head kit actually pops up on ARP's site as main kit.
If I recall this is because a 250 uses the same bolts for the head and main. And the 200 uses different bolts for the head and mains, but the same head bolts as the 250.
Just checking, since nobody said anything about it being a wrong link.
Thanks, chris


Yes, you use a 240/300 main kit for the head. You have to get the main studs individually, the links for the studs, nuts, and washers are on that thread (from allen's fasteners)
 
Thanks Rich, just checking before ordering. I saw the links. Head kit , ouch but what's to expect, quality comes with a price. The old gal will thank me, wallet, not so much
 
Dragonlich1961":3snq75y7 said:
Thanks Rich, just checking before ordering. I saw the links. Head kit , ouch but what's to expect, quality comes with a price. The old gal will thank me, wallet, not so much
shop around, prices vary a lot (should get them under list), though I did shop around for the individual studs for the head (doubtful you will get them cheaper)
 
Back
Top