Confused.....can anyone help?

[Jose]

This is the problem I got...I have a 66 Mustang with a 200 engine, well I was told the carb (carter) that was on there wasn't the original one, so I decided to get a new one (autolite) which i thought was the orginal one....this is where i'm confused....i took the carter one off, and tried puting the autolite on without the spacer (some auto part store said it would fit on the manifold without the spacer) but it didn't fit....so then I tried to put the autolite carb on with the carter spacer, the spacer went on the manifold but the carb didn't fit on the spacer (the holes didn't match) SO....I bought a spacer for the autolite carb, well the carb fit perfect on the spacer BUT didn't fit on the manifold (the holes didn't match)...SO WHAT'S WRONG??? Well i was thinking maybe someone changed the manifold or maybe the carter carb is the original carb that's supposed to be on my 66 Mustang (the reason why i think the carter carb ISN'T the original carb is because of the air cleaner, i have an orginal air cleaner for a 1bbl carb, 200 engine and that air cleaer does not fit on the carter carb but it fits perfect on the autolite carb)

Here one some number that I found on the manifold, they are:
6D23
O5OE-6090-BA

And here are some number I Found on the engine:
21
C8DE
6015B


CAN ANYONE HELP ME........?

 

[Anonymous]

Jose, I had a height problem on my engine and I swapped a few carbs figuring it out. Ive got a couple of Autolites, a Holley, 4 Carter RBS's, a couple of Carter YF's and a few Carter YFAa's. I have looked in alot of junk yards and never been able to find a spacer that fit the holes. The holes on the spacers are always farther apart than the holes on the carbs. I just elongated the holes so they would fit. It seems that many others have done the same because I got two carbs from a carb rebuilding outfit and they both had elongated holes and you could see it was a home job. Anyway I just took a round file and filed out the holes to fit the studs, or you could use a grinder. The carbs are aluminum and the metal cuts very easily. I covered the top hole and the bottom hole with masking tape so no filings could get in . If you measure as you go it is easy to get the bottom hole on the carb and the hole in the spacer plate to line up perfectly. Hope this helps.....Larry

 

[Anonymous]

Well for starters, you have a 68 block in a 66 car, this is not unusual, it was probably swapped out at one time.

The numbers off the intake do not make sense to me, it should be a C# or a D# to indicate either 68=C8XX or 78=D8XX, I have a 65 Mustang and it had a 68 block and 69 250 head in it when I bought it, and it was runnning the same carter YF carb. In my original configuration I bought the same Autolite 1100 you are talking about and had to open the hole up to mount to the carter spacer.

In the end I did not have the correct Distributor to run the Autolite and instead of changing that, I rebuilt the carter. Others can shed light on the Dizzy matchup, but if you are changing carbs you should make sure your distributor matches the carb you are changing to.

Hope this helps...

 

[barishiman]

With little knowledge I know about casting number from Inline Fever, I'll give you some info.

You said you have a 1966 Mustang with a 200ci. So let's take a look for a moment and crunch the numbers. As for your casting # on your head I don't have a clue. 6D23 & O5OE are unknown to me but the 6090 - BA is correct. Your head could be a replacement from the original head. I would re-check those first two set of numbers again.

As for the engine block: C8DE, this what it comes out to be:

C = 1960s
8 = 1968
D = Falcon
E = Engine

We all know that the Falcon engines were put into the Mustangs since it was a cross platform vehicle. So, you have a 1968 engine block and possibly a 1968 head under that 1966 Mustang. Use the following links below to research more on your casting numbers. I hope this helps you out.

Inline Fever casting numbers

or

FordSix Casting Numbers

Andrew

 

[MustangSix]

I'd be willing to bet that the casting number on the head is a C5DE. Sometimes the "C" or "D" looks like an "O".

 

[Jose]

ok i checked out the numbers and 2 were wrong here are the numbers i found:

on engine:
21
C8DE
6015B

on manifold:
6D23
D5DE-6090-BA

and i also seen these # on the manifold as well
1 3 firing order 153624

exhaust manifold:
CBDE-9480-A

so with these number's can anyone tell me more about my engine and the problem i got? and are there any more # that i can find on my engine that would help me find more info about my engine? if there are more # can someone tell me where to look...////I HOPE SOMEONE CAN HELP ME OUT

and if the engine i got now is a falcon....does anyone know where i can find the correct engine for my 66 mustang sprint? I really want to make my 66 original...........///jose

ps...THANKS to all of the people that have helped me out in one way or another..........THANKS

 

[MustangSix]

You have a 1968 design block, a 1975 design head, and a 1968 design exhaust manifold (probably C8 not CB).

Looks like the engine was replaced. The Mustang and Falcon used the same casting numbers. The Falcon designation is due to the fact that the small six was originally designed for that car and the Mustang is a spinoff from that. There is not difference in castings between the two lines.

The C, D, E designations are useful to a degree, but they indicate engineering change year, not the actual casting date. However, some parts do have dates. The cylinder head was acutally cast on April 23, 1976. 6=year, D=month, 23=day.

This also helps explain why there may be C0 part numbers on a 1966 car (the water pump pulley, for example). Designed in 1960, there were not any changes after that.

If originality is extremely important to you, you'll need to find not only the correct casting numbers, but casting dates that precede build date of your car. For example, a C6DE head would be right for your 1966 Mustang, but if your car were built in January and the head were cast in March, it would be wrong for your car.

 

[Jose]

mustang six, THANKS for all of the help, and one more question....since my exhaust manifold is a 1968 design is that why my autolite carb doesn't fit? and DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN GET AN ORIGINAL ENGINE FOR MY 66?

 

[Anonymous]

OK I'll try this....

First you need to determine the build date and all informtaion on the car you can get.... give us the information on the Drivers doorplate, and VIN and we can get a better idea of the block and head numbers you need, once you get the casting numbers you need to match engine to car, you can then start to find your block and head, some of the guys on this forum may even have the parts you need, but we cannot figure that out until we know more.

Then I would suggest you start looking at your local shops, do you have any Mustang Specialist places in your area that you can drive to, if not you can always start calling yards, but you will have a hard time finding the exact 200 block and head from a 66 in a yard, since they are pretty picked over.... but you might get lucky.

I know of two 200 assmeblies here in town, one is from a 65 and one is from a 68, the 65 could work if your build date is early enough as there are a lot of crossover parts between the two year date range. They are both located at Mustang Resto shops (they have a lot of 200 stuff usually since the pull them for V8 swaps all the time...)

Then after you get the block and head you can get them rebuilt and installed...

The manifold you can pick up easily enough, and some of the other parts you will have to search for one by one.... you can get some parts new or OEM, but they are pricey and rare, your best bet is to look used and restore.

I would also strongly suggest if going Concours is your goal you reference the part numbers on the tranny as well, they are often replaced too... very little on my car was to date, and since I have no Drivers tag I am not concerned with stock anyway....

It is all possible, it just takes longer. If you find you are in a situation where you have to ship parts anyway you can start to watch and shop on E-bay I have seen some 200's from 65 and 66 Mustangs sell there too, just make sure to always check your numbers, since you could end up in the same situation, someone who pulled an engine from a 65 or 66 and it was a replacement from later stock. Also if you are shipping you can call around the country and try different shops, you will find the parts.

Hope this helps some, at least you know a little more about what you are up against... as far as I know there is no place you can buy a year specific rebuilt 200 to install without a donor core to have rebuilt.

Oh yeah, PS... your autolite carb does not work, because the 70's head has a 1.75 intake opening and the 1100 was designed for the 1.5 opening, it will fit, but you have to open the holes on the carb a bit. the Carter was being used in later 200's and fits as is.... you will need the C6 head and the correct spacer for the 66, with the heater hose pass through for the 1100.... then it should all bolt together.

 

[barishiman]

Since your in Colorado, you might want to look into Classic Mustang Parts of Oklahoma. They are the largest parts inventory and also have a Mustang graveyard. You could find your engine that you need.

Classic Mustang Parts of Oklahoma


Andrew

 

[Jose]

Ok first off, here is the info on my door tag:

6507T260422 warranty

65A
body

k
color

22
Trim


17/B
date

51
D.S.O

3
axle

1
trans

and I'M VERY THANKFUL that so many people helped me out, and all i ask now is if someone can give me ALL THE CORRECT # ON THE ENGINE I SHOULD HAVE.....i hope all the # i have posted will help...PLUS i know where two 200 engine's are, one is in a 66 mustang and the other is in a junk yard, BUT I DON'T want to get them without knowing the correct numbers...SO IF SOMEONE CAN LET ME KNOW THE CORRECT NUMBER I WOULD REALLY APPRECIATE IT....one more question does anyone in here know how much a machine shop will charge to rebuild a 200 engine, just an estimate?////JOSE

 

[MustangSix]

What you'll need to find is a C6DE block and head with numbers prior to your car's scheduled build date of 17B (February 17, 1966). Same for the block, if there are date codes on them.

While a C5 casting certainly precedes your build date, it's not likely that you would find that block or head on a car as late as yours.

 

[Anonymous]

It all depends on what you are having done... for you a stock rebuild would be the way to go. Since Originality is the key...

That should not cost as much as a peformance rebuild.

As to the exact numbers I cannot give you that, try calling some shops in your area, tell them what you have and get some phone quotes.

 

[Jose]

jimbo65, what happens if i would change my manifold, to correct one, would that work? (the reason why i would want to change manifolds, is 'cause i want my autolite carb on the engine not the carter one).

 

[Anonymous]

I'm not sure what you mean by change the mainfold? You cannot change the intake as it is integral to the head... and the exhaust manifold has nothing to do with the carb you are running?

If you want to run the autolite, you can run it on that setup, you only have to open up the carb holes a bit, this can be done with a drill or dremel.

If you are talking about running it on the 65 engine, that should be no problem, get the right spacer and manifold for the 65 engine and you will be all set. You may also have to change your throttle linkage a bit, I cannot remember if there is a difference for the Autolite? Check the numbers on yuor current manifold and see what year it was made in, if you are going through all this to stay original, you should get a C6## mainfold too... unless yours is already.

But the only thing you need off the exhaust manifold is the choke heat tube.

So it really doesn't matter.

You are likely going to need to change your distributor to match the Autolite carb.

If you are setup with the Carter carb you are likely running a single advance dizzy with centrifugal advance and you will need a single advance distributor with points for a pre68 200 ask for one for your 66 and you should be OK. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

 

[Jose]

jimbo, the reason why i can't just drill holes in my spacer to fit the manifols, is 'cause the spacer is not long enough ....so if i would drill holes to anything it would have to be the manifold...or unless there is some way i can stretch the spacer....

 

[Anonymous]

I cannot tell you for sure 100%... because I abandoned this setup in favor of more powerful... 2v carb.

But you should be able to use the Carter spacer and drill the carb itself. I had a Pony Carb 1100 at one time and I was working on it in that fashion. I think if I remember correctly I was drilling the carb. Not the spacer, and I only had the carter spacer I never had one for the Autolite... I think there is enough room to open the holes outward... you should only have to go about 1/8" on each side, to make up for the 1/4" difference. Can you post any pictures of the spacer, mainfold, and carb? Let us see what you are sweating over?

If you still find you cannot go that far? Then you will have to change the head. Sorry, but the head on your car was not designed for that carb, without modification to the carb. They will fit and work, there are a few guys running them... if you are not interested in swapping engines, you can either make that carb work, or rebuild the carter... they run very nice when tuned, cleaned and matched to the proper Distributor.