200ci Crank pulley too far in

[Dustyford]

Hello, I recently installed an adjustable timing chain kit to set the cam timing correctly. Now the crank pulley is too close to the timing cover and doesn’t line up with the other pulleys. I wasn’t aware this was an issue with the new kit. Anyone else have this problem? Solution? Spacer? Thank you very much for helping.

 

[DON]

Don’t remember this being a problem. Any thing else changed at the same time? Makes me wonder about the crank chain gear being right thickness . Any pics of the gear?

 

[pmuller9]

Here is the picture of the balancer with the original timing gear.



Here is a picture of the balancer with the new timing gear.

 

[Dustyford]

Don’t remember this being a problem. Any thing else changed at the same time? Makes me wonder about the crank chain gear being right thickness . Any pics of the gear?

Only if I take the timing cover off. Nothing else changed. I left the slinger off as instructed but that doesn’t make up the difference. It’s off 1/8”.

 

[Dustyford]

Only if I take the timing cover off. Nothing else changed. I left the slinger off as instructed but that doesn’t make up the difference. It’s off 1/8”.

I don’t know if JP took this into consideration. Maybe other people have this issue and they just didn’t notice it. I will call Claysmith tomorrow and inquire.

 

[drag-200stang]

They make crankshaft hub spacers for the small block chevy part # ATI1916320 that is .093'' for about $10, there may be other thicknesses. But the chevy crank is about .004'' smaller but as sloppy as most things are made, it may fit without any touch up. Outside diameter looks good too but may need a slight touch up.
I would error, in more than out.

 

[Dustyford]

They make crankshaft hub spacers for the small block chevy part # ATI1916320 that is .093'' for about $10, there may be other thicknesses. But the chevy crank is about .004'' smaller but as sloppy as most things are made, it may fit without any touch up. Outside diameter looks good too but may need a slight touch up.
I would error, in more than out.

I called Claysmith and they measured a crank gear. It is 1/16” narrower than the stock gear but the man insisted I did something wrong. All I did was replace the timing kit. Maybe leaving out the slinger combined with the narrower crank gear gives me the 1/8” difference.

 

[63 Sprint]

They make crankshaft hub spacers for the small block chevy part # ATI1916320 that is .093'' for about $10, there may be other thicknesses. But the chevy crank is about .004'' smaller but as sloppy as most things are made, it may fit without any touch up. Outside diameter looks good too but may need a slight touch up.
I would error, in more than out.

McMaster-Carr might have something.
Does anyone know what is the shaft dia. is for the harmonic balancer?

 

[Dustyford]

McMaster-Carr might have something.
Does anyone know what is the shaft dia. is for the harmonic balancer?

1.25” OD for crankshaft where hub goes on

 

[pmuller9]

1.25” OD for crankshaft where hub goes on

What is the OD of the balancer hub that presses up against the timing sprocket?

If the OD is more than 1.750" then use McMaster Carr carbon steel shim number 3088A518.
It is 1.25" ID x 1.750" OD x .125" Thick

Package of 10 is $14.85

You will have to cut the keyway into the inside of the shim.

You need to be sure that you need a .125" thick shim.
If it is too much then the bottom pulley will stick out too far.

The next thinner shim is .093".
Part Number 3088A489

 

[Dustyford]

So the new crank sprocket is the culprit, combined with the lack of a slinger. The OD is 1.755.

 

[pmuller9]

The hub doesn’t make contact with the crank sprocket. The big washer under the damper bolt bottoms out against the end of the crank. I don’t know why it is going in deeper now than before. It probably is something I did wrong or the new water pump sits 1/8” farther out than the original. If I have to, I can put a smaller washer, 3/32 or so, behind the big washer to bring the pulley level. I am going to investigate the water pump a little before I adjust the crank pulley.

The balancer is supposed to bottom out on the sprocket.
It is not doing so now because the sprocket is thinner than before and is the reason why the balancer sits further in than before.

Do you still have the old water pump for comparison?
Does the belt going from the water pump to the alternator look straight?

 

[Dustyford]

The balancer is supposed to bottom out on the sprocket.
It is not doing so now because the sprocket is thinner than before and is the reason why the balancer sits further in than before.

Do you still have the old water pump for comparison?
Does the belt going from the water pump to the alternator look straight?

You’re correct, the hub should bottom out on the sprocket. That is what I told the guy at Claysmith but he said there isn’t a place on the sprocket for the hub to make contact. I’m guessing other people may have the same issue and don’t realize it.

 

[DON]

he said there isn’t a place on the sprocket for the hub to make contact

So what is on the front of the sprocket???
Somehow does that surface magically disappear???

 

[pmuller9]

You’re correct, the hub should bottom out on the sprocket. That is what I told the guy at Claysmith but he said there isn’t a place on the sprocket for the hub to make contact. I’m guessing other people may have the same issue and don’t realize it.

You need one of the shims that I posted in post #10 but first you need to figure out whether to use the .093" shim or the .125" shim or some other thickness.

 

[Dustyford]

So what is on the front of the sprocket???
Somehow does that surface magically disappear???

Well maybe he is just guessing about that because it has multiple keyways. The main reason I called was to get a measurement of the thickness so I didn’t have to take the timing cover off. I have a total of about 3/64” more space to fill with the new sprocket. Not a lot but noticeable. Maybe leave it that way? Will it cause a belt issue? I don’t know.

 

[pmuller9]

Here is a picture of the sprocket.
The sprocket does have a surface for the balance hub.

You can't leave the sprocket with a space between it and the balance hub.
The sprocket cannot be allowed to walk back and forth on the crankshaft hub.
Plus, if the hub is not torqued against the sprocket the key or the key will eventually fail.

 

[Dustyford]

Here is a picture of the sprocket.
The sprocket does have a surface for the balance hub.

You can't leave the sprocket with a space between it and the balance hub.
The sprocket cannot be allowed to walk back and forth on the crankshaft hub.
Plus, if the hub is not torqued against the sprocket the key or the key will eventually fail.


View attachment 29298

It’s not possible to leave a space unless it’s not tight. I was suggesting leaving it too far in. It does look like the surface is uneven though. It looks like rivets or something sticking up.
The alternator pulley lines up with the water pump pulley.

 

[pmuller9]

It’s not possible to leave a space unless it’s not tight. I was suggesting leaving it too far in. It does look like the surface is uneven though. It looks like rivets or something sticking up.
The alternator pulley lines up with the water pump pulley.

You said the big balancer washer was bottomed out on the end of the crank.
That means there is a space between the balancer hub and the sprocket.

The chain rivets do not extend beyond the sprocket hub.
The balancer hub will seat against the sprocket hub.

 

[Dustyford]

You said the big balancer washer was bottomed out on the end of the crank.
That means there is a space between the balancer hub and the sprocket.

The chain rivets do not extend beyond the sprocket hub.
The balancer hub will seat against the sprocket hub.

I removed that because it was incorrect