Diagnosis
- Thread starter mysavioreigns
- Start date
I'm going to weigh in with a simplistic suggestion (not always bad). The problem you have is in working with two unknowns. If you can reinstall the Holley 1100, do so, and see what happens. I know it won't perform too well with other than Loadamatic, but it should at least run.
Bort62":18xx9ems said:
You miss the point, work with one unknown at a time, not two. If the old carb worked OK, put it back on, and determine that the problem is ignition, or vice-versa.
On another post, someone wrote that wires were incorrectly shown on some diagram. Anyway, here's the diagram I found on this or some other forum:
Being partially color blind is always a challenge, but I can tell Orange from Black and Purple (or Violet, Chartreuse, whatever.) The way I read it, Orange to W, Purple to G, C to Neg post on coil, B to Pos post on coil with 12 Volts Switched. Is that Correct? I've got mine just about hooked up, with the Holley 1100, except for timing.
Being partially color blind is always a challenge, but I can tell Orange from Black and Purple (or Violet, Chartreuse, whatever.) The way I read it, Orange to W, Purple to G, C to Neg post on coil, B to Pos post on coil with 12 Volts Switched. Is that Correct? I've got mine just about hooked up, with the Holley 1100, except for timing.
BIGREDRASA":132fv21m said:On another post, someone wrote that wires were incorrectly shown on someo diagram. Anyway, here's the diagram I found on this or some other forum:
Being partially color blind is always a challenge, but I can tell Orange from Black and Purple (or Violet, Chartreuse, whatever.) The way I read it, Orange to G, Purple to W, C to Neg post on coil, B to Pos post on coil with 12 Volts Switched. Is that Correct? I've got mine just about hooked up, with the Holley 1100, except for timing.
The diagram has Purple to G and Orange to W. I think you got your colors backwards. Might want to have somebody confirm for you.
Not trying to be offensive. My best friend is color blind and has to ask me what color is which sometimes.
Thank you for reminding me RSA!
One of the diagrams out there is WRONG. It has the wires between the distributor and Module backwards. It will still run this way, but not well. I made the same mistake with mine.
I believe that might be the wrong diagram shown here. Do a search as I ended up slogging through this a few months ago.
One of the diagrams out there is WRONG. It has the wires between the distributor and Module backwards. It will still run this way, but not well. I made the same mistake with mine.
I believe that might be the wrong diagram shown here. Do a search as I ended up slogging through this a few months ago.
Bort62":jhtsnqpm said:OKay, look up.
This is the correct configuration
This has been gone over already in this thread. Too many damn threads to keep track of!
I couldn't even find where I got the diagram above. That's why we need certain comprehensive Stickies.
I can't quite see the lettering on that module. Do they all have the same terminals/lettering? That looks pretty much like the diagram I have, assuming C is black and Neg, B is Red and Pos, Purple to G, and Orange to W.
The 4 pin GM (or gm compatible) modules are all physically the same as far as connections.
The skinny terminal is the purple wire in the DS2 harness
The wider one is the orange
I believe the other side they are both wide
The module needs a ground, in my photo you can see the 2 black wires on the left side under one of the mounting screws, that module had a metal rivet sort of a thing through that hole connecting it to the base. Some modules have those rivet things on both holes, some have none and have to ground through the base so look close and make sure you make a good ground.
Dont forget that the module need a heat sink with the white goo for the best chance of survival. I also would recommend spending at least $30 on a big name brand module. I have had nothing but trouble with the $15 store brand ones. I have never personally seen a failed genuine GM one but they must have failed because you sure see a ton of aftermarket ones on engines. I think the one in my photo KEM? may be a store brand, it was just something I found in my junk pile. I have another spare in the glove box with a screwdriver just in case.
If you get the OR & PUR reversed it does run but what happens is it fires the coil somewhere between the terminals so its a pain to start because it kicks back and when you do get it to run it will only run at higher rpms and dies as soon as you try to let it idle. I spent several hours with that problem when I did mine. I was reading something on MSD's site and I had one of those AH HA moments and had to run outside in my underwear at midnight to check and see if that was my problem. I would have swapped them and tried it if I had an exhaust system on the car at the time. After learning what I did I re read all the instructions and found that one was wrong and one of the other ones was written sort of funny so it was easy to miss read. My picture that has been posted 2x now in this thread is correct.
The skinny terminal is the purple wire in the DS2 harness
The wider one is the orange
I believe the other side they are both wide
The module needs a ground, in my photo you can see the 2 black wires on the left side under one of the mounting screws, that module had a metal rivet sort of a thing through that hole connecting it to the base. Some modules have those rivet things on both holes, some have none and have to ground through the base so look close and make sure you make a good ground.
Dont forget that the module need a heat sink with the white goo for the best chance of survival. I also would recommend spending at least $30 on a big name brand module. I have had nothing but trouble with the $15 store brand ones. I have never personally seen a failed genuine GM one but they must have failed because you sure see a ton of aftermarket ones on engines. I think the one in my photo KEM? may be a store brand, it was just something I found in my junk pile. I have another spare in the glove box with a screwdriver just in case.
If you get the OR & PUR reversed it does run but what happens is it fires the coil somewhere between the terminals so its a pain to start because it kicks back and when you do get it to run it will only run at higher rpms and dies as soon as you try to let it idle. I spent several hours with that problem when I did mine. I was reading something on MSD's site and I had one of those AH HA moments and had to run outside in my underwear at midnight to check and see if that was my problem. I would have swapped them and tried it if I had an exhaust system on the car at the time. After learning what I did I re read all the instructions and found that one was wrong and one of the other ones was written sort of funny so it was easy to miss read. My picture that has been posted 2x now in this thread is correct.
This is the one of the confusing ones, the letters and colors are right but the shape of the module is confusing and one end or the other is flipped so if you go by the picture you will be wrong, if you go by the letters you will be correct. B & G are across from each other as are C & W. B & G are the ones on the cupped inside part of the C shape.
Refer to my picture that has been posted earlier in this thread, its correct and has been running fine for 2 years
Patrick66
Famous Member
http://www.bronco.com/cms/files/hei_pic2.gif
i used this one to wire mine, then i found out it was wrong. i wasnt getting any spark so i switched which hole the ground was going to and it fired up.
i used this one to wire mine, then i found out it was wrong. i wasnt getting any spark so i switched which hole the ground was going to and it fired up.
BIGREDRASA":3tj3kf5w said:Bort62":3tj3kf5w said:OKay, look up.
This is the correct configuration
This has been gone over already in this thread. Too many damn threads to keep track of!
I couldn't even find where I got the diagram above. That's why we need certain comprehensive Stickies.
I can't quite see the lettering on that module. Do they all have the same terminals/lettering? That looks pretty much like the diagram I have, assuming C is black and Neg, B is Red and Pos, Purple to G, and Orange to W.
Yes, we could use a comprehensive and CORRECT sticky on this topic. This sort of thing is why I get so upset when people post incorrect information as fact.
Ian, what's the best size wires to use?
Well, I am flattered that you would ask.
For the +12v wire between the battery and coil, based on a 1.5 ohm coil, AWG minimum chasis wiring standards indicate 16 guage. I however would, if building the harness from scratch, recommend 14 or 12. Never been much a fan of using the minimum.
The wire between the distributor and module is a low current signal wire, so any reasonable guage is sufficient. The same goes for the wire between the +12 of the coil and the ignition module as the ignition modules current draw is < .5 A (AWG min recommendation is 32 guage, which is way smaller than you would want to work with)
For simplicities sake, I would recommend 18-20 guage for all connections excepting the coil +12v and the line between the coil and the ignition module. Those two I would recommend 12 or 14 guage. Make sure that the ignition module is securely connected to ground using either face contact or a 12 guage or better wire. Use a 12A fuse between the battery and the coil.
It is best to use a relay to power the coil, triggered by the ignition switch.
This is for using the Duraspark II distributor with a GM 4-pin (recommended) or Duraspark ignition module.
For the +12v wire between the battery and coil, based on a 1.5 ohm coil, AWG minimum chasis wiring standards indicate 16 guage. I however would, if building the harness from scratch, recommend 14 or 12. Never been much a fan of using the minimum.
The wire between the distributor and module is a low current signal wire, so any reasonable guage is sufficient. The same goes for the wire between the +12 of the coil and the ignition module as the ignition modules current draw is < .5 A (AWG min recommendation is 32 guage, which is way smaller than you would want to work with)
For simplicities sake, I would recommend 18-20 guage for all connections excepting the coil +12v and the line between the coil and the ignition module. Those two I would recommend 12 or 14 guage. Make sure that the ignition module is securely connected to ground using either face contact or a 12 guage or better wire. Use a 12A fuse between the battery and the coil.
It is best to use a relay to power the coil, triggered by the ignition switch.
This is for using the Duraspark II distributor with a GM 4-pin (recommended) or Duraspark ignition module.
Bort62":3lne77hk said:
Agreed. They also need to be categorized better, which means time & patience. I'm getting ready to move the PS Pump bracket issues to the Pump Sticky, so it's all in one place for reference.
Now, what size wires are needed for the different contacts? To replace the Ballast Resistor? I'm thinking of wiring the power to the coil/HEI module through an underdash "secret" switch.
mysavioreigns
Famous Member
You guys are awesome. Pulled the old wire out, popped the new one in, and it ran like a champ, for several minutes...
... so why does the story not end there? ...
A buddy of mine was over, and I said, hey, let's go for a drive in a circle real quick. Took it around, came back around, and went to pull into my parking spot. Hit the brakes. Nothing. Hit them again. Nothing. The car popped the curb, and I opened the door to bail out, while at the same time put my feet on the ground and tried to hold the car back. I know, not good instinct cause i could have gotten run over. But, instinct is instinct. Luckily, the car stopped on the edge of the sidewalk, because there's a 4 foot drop a foot past the sidewalk.
I had checked the fluid yesterday and it was fine. Now the back bowl is empty. Still not sure why the rears wouldn't brake, but that's for another discussion. I haven't really looked into it yet, cause I just pushed it into it's parking spot, and walked away a lucky man.
... so why does the story not end there? ...
A buddy of mine was over, and I said, hey, let's go for a drive in a circle real quick. Took it around, came back around, and went to pull into my parking spot. Hit the brakes. Nothing. Hit them again. Nothing. The car popped the curb, and I opened the door to bail out, while at the same time put my feet on the ground and tried to hold the car back. I know, not good instinct cause i could have gotten run over. But, instinct is instinct. Luckily, the car stopped on the edge of the sidewalk, because there's a 4 foot drop a foot past the sidewalk.
I had checked the fluid yesterday and it was fine. Now the back bowl is empty. Still not sure why the rears wouldn't brake, but that's for another discussion. I haven't really looked into it yet, cause I just pushed it into it's parking spot, and walked away a lucky man.
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