Diagnosis
- Thread starter mysavioreigns
- Start date
mysavioreigns
Famous Member
That was actually with a dual MC from a 67. Thing is, I've got a brand new MC in the box and I'm just going to redo the whole brake system...and maybe put my disk brakes on there if SWMBO let's me have time 
Bort62":2ex5xf5j said:
I found this out when I put a Pontaic 389 GTO engine in my 60 Falcon. It would run fine with new plugs, but then started missing. Cut the resistor wire out and it was a 427HP Vette beater. DMV said it was 2400 pounds. The GTO engine had a mild came.
A
Anonymous
Guest
I'm sorry if this has been asked and answered already in another thread, but this is the best and most comprehensive thread for wiring the HEI module. Is the ballast resistor wire even needed if you switch to the HEI DSII setup? I get the impression this wire is only only used in the old coil & load-o-matic setup and can be disconnected. Going to be doing the swap this weekend.
Thanks,
Jim
Thanks,
Jim
mysavioreigns
Famous Member
yes you need to remove the wire. Takes a couple minutes, no big deal. Just by-pass it.
Stephen,
I am not being fussy here or poking fun...but I did go look at your Picasa pictures and two things stood out!
(1) in one picture you have your carb, old spice, leatherman and tums...all the tools for working on 6cyl Fords!
(2) I can tell you passion when the picture of your carb also has your underwear drawer in it!
Where is Arlington...anywhere near Mesquite, I may want to come by for a look see at your ride when I get back stateside.. that is if I haven't offended you..
Christians are so lucky...they can truly blame the devil!
I am not being fussy here or poking fun...but I did go look at your Picasa pictures and two things stood out!
(1) in one picture you have your carb, old spice, leatherman and tums...all the tools for working on 6cyl Fords!
(2) I can tell you passion when the picture of your carb also has your underwear drawer in it!
Where is Arlington...anywhere near Mesquite, I may want to come by for a look see at your ride when I get back stateside.. that is if I haven't offended you..
Christians are so lucky...they can truly blame the devil!
mysavioreigns
Famous Member
hahaha, I've been exposed...
Yea Arlington isn't too far from Mesquite - it's right in the middle of Dallas and Ft. Worth. Sure, just let me know!
Yea Arlington isn't too far from Mesquite - it's right in the middle of Dallas and Ft. Worth. Sure, just let me know!
A
Anonymous
Guest
one more question for the upcoming conversion. When you ran the new wire from the ignition switch to the module, did you cut a hole in the firewall or is there a better method?
Thanks again!
Jim
Thanks again!
Jim
A
Anonymous
Guest
Thanks Patrick66, especially for the pics!!!
-Jim
-Jim
Someone in a different thread asked how much this HEI setup costs retail.
Dist 30-2690 $54.99 Checker
Cap F952 $9.99 Autozone
Rotor F953 $3.99 Autozone
Coil C819 $18.99 Autozone
Module DR100 $18.99 Autozone
Wire Set  1428 $21.99 Autozone
Adapter F960 $7.49 Autozone
Spring kit 925D $6.49 Checker
$142.92 Plus Tax
I asked for a 1978 Ford Fairmont 3.3L 200cid Dizzy.
This is what Checker and Autozone had:
Sure doesn't look like this one. Hope it works. Just noticed it is for an 8 cylinder.
It does look like this one.
Checker Auto can get the spring kit for $6.49, but it shows three springs.
http://www.partsamerica.com:80/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=MRG&MfrPartNumber=925D
Which sping do I use if it has three and what total advance should I shoot for?
Edit: Mr Gasket says the Ford kit only has 1 set of springs.
Dist 30-2690 $54.99 Checker
Cap F952 $9.99 Autozone
Rotor F953 $3.99 Autozone
Coil C819 $18.99 Autozone
Module DR100 $18.99 Autozone
Wire Set  1428 $21.99 Autozone
Adapter F960 $7.49 Autozone
Spring kit 925D $6.49 Checker
$142.92 Plus Tax
I asked for a 1978 Ford Fairmont 3.3L 200cid Dizzy.
This is what Checker and Autozone had:
Sure doesn't look like this one. Hope it works. Just noticed it is for an 8 cylinder.
It does look like this one.
Checker Auto can get the spring kit for $6.49, but it shows three springs.
http://www.partsamerica.com:80/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=MRG&MfrPartNumber=925D
Which sping do I use if it has three and what total advance should I shoot for?
Edit: Mr Gasket says the Ford kit only has 1 set of springs.
bigcatchdaniel555
Well-known member
If they gave you one wth 8 pick ups you need to take it back and get the correct one for a 6 with 6 pick ups because that one wont work. However evrything else in the dizzy look just as it should for a DSII system.
Dan
Dan
I got the 6 cylinder one in the first picture. Haven't taken it apart yet, but am about to.
I bought a digital Acutron timing light and with my stock dizzy and the vacuum line off, it shows 26° initial advance. Don't know if my damper is correct. Will have to verify TDC as that seem quite high. Also, when I give it gas, it goes retarded briefly, about 20°. Again, that is with the vacuum line off. Where it is set, with 87 octane, no ping.
Any idea where I can get a timing tape for a 66 3.3L 200?
I bought a digital Acutron timing light and with my stock dizzy and the vacuum line off, it shows 26° initial advance. Don't know if my damper is correct. Will have to verify TDC as that seem quite high. Also, when I give it gas, it goes retarded briefly, about 20°. Again, that is with the vacuum line off. Where it is set, with 87 octane, no ping.
Any idea where I can get a timing tape for a 66 3.3L 200?
60s Refugee
Well-known member
I intend to post a seperate post about my step by step, but I followed the steps in the "sticky". I took the thing apart, replaced the light spring with one from the 925D kit, bent the post on the heavy spring 3/32" and set the tab from the '10' slot to the '13' slot and put it all back together. However, after bending the post 3/32 I noticed the spring was pretty loose. That scared me so I bent it back half the distance, so my bent spring post is only about 1/16" bent.
The price list you posted was pretty much the same as mine, considering I bought from Auto Zone too. Their module was more than yours, but not by much.
Went to the yard again today. This time looking for a fan pulley with two grooves. Of course, no luck finding one.
Harry
The price list you posted was pretty much the same as mine, considering I bought from Auto Zone too. Their module was more than yours, but not by much.
Went to the yard again today. This time looking for a fan pulley with two grooves. Of course, no luck finding one.
Harry
60s Refugee
Well-known member
I read that bending the post 3/32 would move the post about halfway up the loop in the spring. It did just that. I was afraid that 1, it might fall out and 2, it wouldn't be able to pull the advance back. So, I bent it back a bit.
We'll see very soon!
was your dizzy set in the 10 slot or the 13 slot?
Harry
We'll see very soon!
was your dizzy set in the 10 slot or the 13 slot?
Harry
Mine has a 10R and 15R and it is in the 15 slot. Anybody know if the R or L make a difference? BTW, the weights are both 12 grams; I was curious. I just re-checked with a pick. It is definately a 15. Same part number as Ian has. Ian, what numbers are on yours? R L 13 15?
We've got two threads going at once. Need to join them.
We've got two threads going at once. Need to join them.
60s Refugee, Can you take a picture of what spring you used. I would have to ordered the spring kit from Checker and figured with all the VW, other dizzys and my junk spring box, I probably have one that will work. Is the one you used about the same as the light one that came with the dizzy?
60s Refugee, What did you use to get that clip out of the center so you could change from 10 to 13. Sucker was a SOB to get out, and then the upper shaft still had to be pried off.
A caution for those that have not removed the reluctor on you 78 dizzy: You have to center the poles on the pick-up coil to get it off.
Edit: Just measured my slots and I have a 10° @ .41" and a 14° @ .514" even though it is marked 15L, so I will go with that. It also looks like some heavy handed person install the springs and stretched the heavy one.
8L slot = 16 degrees centrifugal advance = .358"
9L slot = 18 degrees centrifugal advance = .384"
10L slot = 20 degrees centrifugal advance = .410" Total slot width
11L slot = 22 degrees centrifugal advance = .436
12L slot = 24 degrees centrifugal advance = .462"
13L slot = 26 degrees centrifugal advance = .488"
14L slot = 28 degrees centrifugal advance = .514
I also found my box of spare VW dizzys and two 12 volt coils. One even says to not use a resistor. The one from AZ is going back. I should also have enough springs in this box to set it up right. With the stretched spring, I was probably getting the desired amount of advance before the slack was taken up on the heavy one.
60s Refugee, What did you use to get that clip out of the center so you could change from 10 to 13. Sucker was a SOB to get out, and then the upper shaft still had to be pried off.
A caution for those that have not removed the reluctor on you 78 dizzy: You have to center the poles on the pick-up coil to get it off.
Edit: Just measured my slots and I have a 10° @ .41" and a 14° @ .514" even though it is marked 15L, so I will go with that. It also looks like some heavy handed person install the springs and stretched the heavy one.
8L slot = 16 degrees centrifugal advance = .358"
9L slot = 18 degrees centrifugal advance = .384"
10L slot = 20 degrees centrifugal advance = .410" Total slot width
11L slot = 22 degrees centrifugal advance = .436
12L slot = 24 degrees centrifugal advance = .462"
13L slot = 26 degrees centrifugal advance = .488"
14L slot = 28 degrees centrifugal advance = .514
I also found my box of spare VW dizzys and two 12 volt coils. One even says to not use a resistor. The one from AZ is going back. I should also have enough springs in this box to set it up right. With the stretched spring, I was probably getting the desired amount of advance before the slack was taken up on the heavy one.
60s Refugee
Well-known member
Mine was 10/13 and the peg was in the 10 slot. The 925d spring had more winds than the light stock spring, but was weaker. I tested by hanging a socket on a wire hook to the spring and seeing which spring let the socket drop the farthest. The 925 was definently the weaker one.
I took a small sharpened screw driver and scraped away the black sealer in the shaft and took another small screw driver with a bent over tip and hooked into the clip. You are right, it was a bitch....try to do it one handed like I did and you'll see why I went to lunch right after getting it out. I only pryed the shaft up enough to clear the tab. Some threads show the shaft completely removed!
That "carbed ford" site has that often quoted thread about recurving. He says to bend both posts so that the springs have NO slack! Crap! I hope he's wrong cuz I still had a tiny bit after bending the tab from 3/32 to 1/16. Guess I'll find out soon. Maybe I should take the reluctor off again and put the tab back to where it was so the big spring has 0 slack.
Harry
I took a small sharpened screw driver and scraped away the black sealer in the shaft and took another small screw driver with a bent over tip and hooked into the clip. You are right, it was a bitch....try to do it one handed like I did and you'll see why I went to lunch right after getting it out. I only pryed the shaft up enough to clear the tab. Some threads show the shaft completely removed!
That "carbed ford" site has that often quoted thread about recurving. He says to bend both posts so that the springs have NO slack! Crap! I hope he's wrong cuz I still had a tiny bit after bending the tab from 3/32 to 1/16. Guess I'll find out soon. Maybe I should take the reluctor off again and put the tab back to where it was so the big spring has 0 slack.
Harry
You don't have to take the reluctor off. Check at the bottom of this page.
http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com ... age-2.html
My VW springs were to long, but I took some out of an old points GM dizzy that look close. Haven't tested them yet, but that is a good idea using the socket.
I don't think a proper setup should have any slack. That would make it real sensitive off idle. Adjust the curve with different springs.
http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com ... age-2.html
My VW springs were to long, but I took some out of an old points GM dizzy that look close. Haven't tested them yet, but that is a good idea using the socket.
I don't think a proper setup should have any slack. That would make it real sensitive off idle. Adjust the curve with different springs.
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