Diagnosis

To recap, I did not like the way it was clocked with the vacuum nipple pointed at the dipstick. I changed that.

If it dies, how will the light still flash. If you mean to watch the light when it dies, I could try that. Good idea.

It's not fuel. It ran perfect with the stock dizzy.

With the stock dizzy, I could set the timing to just retarded of where it kicked back and it idled and ran fine. I could idle down to where I could damn near count the rpm.

I appreciate all the help guys. This is just not making sense. After it cools off, I will change the coil to a Bosch 12V coil. This coil had good spark when I bench tested it using an old GM points dizzy. ~1/2"
 
The 4.5 volts was from the coil - to ground.

No function generator. I could pull it all and set it up on my bench and turn the dizzy by hand to see if it sparks at low rpm.

Time out!!! If it sparks at cranking speed, then it should spark at low idle.
 
BIGREDRASA, other than the carb, you have the same ignition I have. If you remove the vacuum line, can you idle down to 500-700 rpm?
 
yeah you should get a blink or two before it stops turning. go with the 12v coil. i'm guessing you have a coil/ballast setup now?
to recap: :lol:
you put on the dsII it ran great for 3-4 minutes then died.
regapped the plugs hard start ran good for 10 seconds.
put a mr gasket spring kit. didn't like it went back to stock
put 12 v to the module, still not better.
 
Getter, You have me confused with the original poster.

I have bypassed the ballast wire by plugging directly into the bullet just off the switch.

The stock light spring was giving advance way too early, so I replaced it with a heavier one. Now, advance doesn't start till around 2200.
 
frogmn666":vg2ioax1 said:
Getter, You have me confused with the original poster.

I have bypassed the ballast wire by plugging directly into the bullet just off the switch.

The stock light spring was giving advance way too early, so I replaced it with a heavier one. Now, advance doesn't start till around 2200.


Damn.... I fell for the thread hijack :lol:

in case I missed the post, did you plug your scv ?
 
He was done after he bypassed his ballast wire.

Read through page two. I posted vacuum and other tests.

News Flash: I hooked my timing light to the high tension coil wire and when cranking I don't get a steady flash. It will occasionaly flash and try to start then stop flashing. When it is running, and dies, the flash stops right before it dies.

So is it the coil, the module or the pick-up coil in the dizzy? It's like I need test equipment hooked up to everything at once and have 4 sets of eyes.
 
frogmn666":1z7zoy92 said:
He was done after he bypassed his ballast wire.

Read through page two. I posted vacuum and other tests.

News Flash: I hooked my timing light to the high tension coil wire and when cranking I don't get a steady flash. It will occasionaly flash and try to start then stop flashing. When it is running, and dies, the flash stops right before it dies.

So is it the coil, the module or the pick-up coil in the dizzy? It's like I need test equipment hooked up to everything at once and have 4 sets of eyes.

time for a parts swap. pick the easiest first :wink:

and.....don't assume the coil wire and rotor are good.
check connections etc. etc. etc.

if I read it correctly, 2200 for timing advance to start sounds way late .
 
Sounds like you have found your culprit. Now as to which component is causing it...

I doubt it is the pickup coil as that is a fairly passive device.

I would pick the coil first, personally. Have you tested it's resistance?
 
What are the chances I have 3 bad coils?



Just what I thought. Slim and none.

Connections on the coil, module and from the dizzy are all good.
Didn't use the dizzy ground wire, but ohmmeter says the dizzy is grounded.

Plug wires are new, but that doesn't mean there couldn't be a bad one, and it would have to be the cap to coil to cause this.

Went solid copper coil to cap. No change.

Rotor and cap are new and look fine.

From what I've read, the HEI module either works or it doesn't, so that means it is probably the pick-up coil in the dizzy.

I've always been suspect of the dizzy as the wires from the pick-up module to the harness have been splice and covered with shrink tubing.
 
I just pulled the cap on mine. no splice.

I slept at a fruit stand in camarillo due to a new rotor. looks have nothing to do with it :wink:

before that (and after) i'd always carry the old tune up parts in the car :smash:
 
OK, here's some news, I got a reply today from Total Performance who make the DSII conversion harness for NPD. I asked them if the system needed a resistor or not. The included instruction sheet suggested that it did.

Their reply was that it DOES need a resistor. They specifically mentioned the pink resistor wire and said I needed to keep it in the loop. Could running 12v to the ignition module (OEM type) burn up the module? Could this be your idle problem? :?: Might you have fizzed your ign mod?

I haven't wired mine yet but planned to on Thursday.

Harry
 
60s Refugee":3mkn53ja said:
OK, here's some news, I got a reply today from Total Performance who make the DSII conversion harness for NPD. I asked them if the system needed a resistor or not. The included instruction sheet suggested that it did.

Their reply was that it DOES need a resistor. They specifically mentioned the pink resistor wire and said I needed to keep it in the loop. Could running 12v to the ignition module (OEM type) burn up the module? Could this be your idle problem? :?: Might you have fizzed your ign mod?

I haven't wired mine yet but planned to on Thursday.

Harry

all this makes me very happy I went with the msd6. I bought it used for a good price. npd's harness' price would nearly cover the msd :idea:
 
Well, I will repeat what I said in the other thread.

Whoever these guys @ total performance are, they are clearly idiots.

Did ford's factory application of the Duraspark include any sort of current limiting resistor?


Nope.

Will the GM module work with a current limiting resistor?


Nope.

Are dozens if not 100's of members of this forum running a durapsark II system without a current limiting resistor?

Yep.

Did my very own Duraspark II setup w/ GM module not idle, and then start working when I removed the current limiting resistor?

Yep.

Does Chevrolet include a current limiting resistor in any application where they use their infamous 4-pin ignition module ?

Nope.

.................................

Draw your own conclusions...
 
Frog,

If all three coils do the same thing, then I suspect the ignition module. It is not true that they either work or don't.

I've worked with these a lot more than most (I designed a system to ignite a rocket engine with one at my last job) and they fail in all sorts of bizzare ways.

You will get there... If you had a function generator you could really test it.
 
Should also mention that my dist has a splice in the wires for the pickup coil.

The pickup coil, because it is a hall effect sensor, is much more likely to either work or not.
 
I'm going to return the dizzy to Checker. I didn't like the way they treated me when I bought it.
I had to pay for it before I could even look at it.

The Autozone 1/2 mile from my house has one, but I didn't buy it because it didn't look like this one.

DSII.jpg


I couldn't find anything in their return policy about returning electronics, and wonder if they will take
the module back if the dizzy doesn't fix the problem. They do have a way of testing ignition modules.

In most stores, we can also test voltage regulators, control modules, coils, throttle position sensors
(TPSs)and other engine management components.
 
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