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yes, thats Y we have ford6. To ask each other what others can not tell.
Speed Daddy’s were 304 SS (general purpose) and copy of our own CI (&VI).
This communicated thru purchase by our membership right here. Use of Matt @ VI
(the follow up to CI who made this site) after it slowed down.
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These Hooker 6601 and Cyclone long tube headers still on the Ebay. I received a message from the Hooker seller that he would take 300 plus shipping $75 from Oregon. I already have the 6601 and 6602 in my inventory so saw no point in buying but was tempted because these are rarely available. Not stainless but you can have them coated.
eBay - Hooker Super Comps' small block six
Not mine saw on E-Bay . Actual ' 6601's' fairly rare , few Long Tube true duals' for 144/170/200 - (do not fit 250) ...fordsix.com
Cyclone Automotive exhaust header Ford 200 250 CI 6 cylinder Mustang dual outlet | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Cyclone Automotive exhaust header Ford 200 250 CI 6 cylinder Mustang dual outlet at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
Added link to Cyclone headers.
Chad, the Cyclone tubes are arranged so the first three cylinders in the firing order, fire in one collector and then the next three in the other. It makes for a more V8 sound at lower rev's.
The hooker, the first fires in one and then the next fires in the other collector and so on. They say that this makes best power.
I made good power with the Cyclone so for a mild build I think it is fine. I have also used the Hooker style and cannot say how much more power it made, made too many changes to tell, but it did sound like a European six.
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Dont think I’m steepin on Annonomus’s thread (let me no if I am):
I’m not ed-U-ma cated on the pulses, what’s best, if combining or separating is good for tq v HP, etc. I have not read Dizzard, not followed it BUT...
a wk or 2 go we hada redo the turbo intake ona 2.7 (4 cyl Toy truck motor). The car was doin hi 9s. After... we got low 8s (only change). They wont let us back on the track w/o parachute. May need to change to chrome-molly cage next (good problems to have).
Whats the scoop on our exhausts? i6 any different? I no we have 1 5 3 6 2 4, sez so right on my intake log. I got the last CI (kinda shorties) after the shop closed. So it’s a 6 to 2 I’m bringing into one @ rocker (use a Y). I’m not aware of how collected, what it matters. Shouldnt a pulse follow another to add push? Ie the 1st 3 firing order collect @ one point, 2nd 3 another. Y does “into one" at that point (ona shortie) not impead? Any concerns with scavaging?
Just bout everything is set for low rev tq ( big 1v, tim set, advance, 1st gear, rear/3rd member, etc). I’ve heard long tubes R better for tq but I’ll stay w/these headers (not puttin in more $) but what’s ideal on “collection” for that? We spend a day (~) on changing the 4 cyl cuz our guy said the pulses were bangin into each other rather than exiting clean...
I’m not ed-U-ma cated on the pulses, what’s best, if combining or separating is good for tq v HP, etc. I have not read Dizzard, not followed it BUT...
a wk or 2 go we hada redo the turbo intake ona 2.7 (4 cyl Toy truck motor). The car was doin hi 9s. After... we got low 8s (only change). They wont let us back on the track w/o parachute. May need to change to chrome-molly cage next (good problems to have).
Whats the scoop on our exhausts? i6 any different? I no we have 1 5 3 6 2 4, sez so right on my intake log. I got the last CI (kinda shorties) after the shop closed. So it’s a 6 to 2 I’m bringing into one @ rocker (use a Y). I’m not aware of how collected, what it matters. Shouldnt a pulse follow another to add push? Ie the 1st 3 firing order collect @ one point, 2nd 3 another. Y does “into one" at that point (ona shortie) not impead? Any concerns with scavaging?
Just bout everything is set for low rev tq ( big 1v, tim set, advance, 1st gear, rear/3rd member, etc). I’ve heard long tubes R better for tq but I’ll stay w/these headers (not puttin in more $) but what’s ideal on “collection” for that? We spend a day (~) on changing the 4 cyl cuz our guy said the pulses were bangin into each other rather than exiting clean...
jcom4179
Well-known member
Yes, can take a few pictures. There long tube stainless steel, both go straight back to flowmaster 40's. 100% sounds as good as a V8. Did a sound test side by side with my buddies new 470hp Camaro SS, my 200 inline 6 sounds louder with a deeper rumble!!!
what the OP is lookin at:
cliffordperformance.net
It just gathrs 123 ina line and 456 for the 2 collectors.
53-0186 6=8 Headers Ford 200 1964 & Up
This is a Header that everyone wants to copy!It will add up to 30% power and torque to your daily driver and the sound is that header popping sound.1.50" 16 gauge steel tubingLazer cut flange 3/8" 2.5" collectors2.25" street hookup kit
cliffordperformance.net
jcom4179
Well-known member
That's what they look like, except there stainless steel, not painted. I had to re tune the carburator because the air can flow way better. I went with 2 1/4 straight back. What can ruin the sound is if you put an X or H pipe. For some reason either one works great on most V8 motors. I'll try and get those pics up in the next day or 2.what the OP is lookin at:
It just gathrs 123 ina line and 456 for the 2 collectors.53-0186 6=8 Headers Ford 200 1964 & Up
This is a Header that everyone wants to copy!It will add up to 30% power and torque to your daily driver and the sound is that header popping sound.1.50" 16 gauge steel tubingLazer cut flange 3/8" 2.5" collectors2.25" street hookup kit
Cheers
Jeff C.
Now ya got "tru duall all the way back”? 2.25
is fine in my opinion. Locals here want me
to put in 3 or 4 inch 8^ 0 Need
some back pressure or
scavenging, eh ?
“...For some reason either one works great..."
back to 'the pulses’ put out as each cyl does it’s ‘firing order’ thang.
C my whole line of posts to this thread~
May B some1 w/some automotive
theory will pipe in~
is fine in my opinion. Locals here want me
to put in 3 or 4 inch 8^ 0 Need
some back pressure or
scavenging, eh ?
“...For some reason either one works great..."
back to 'the pulses’ put out as each cyl does it’s ‘firing order’ thang.
C my whole line of posts to this thread~
May B some1 w/some automotive
theory will pipe in~
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Some pics would be great. I'm most interested in how they fit to the engine, how they clear everything (intake, alternator, shock tower, etc.)
Thanks!
An eBay header can make a great difference in power if you are running a round Falcon muffler with a 1-1/2" tailpipe.
A 2" turbo adapted to a 1-3/4" Falcon exhaust pipe can also provide a great power gain over the round 1-1/2" out let Falcon muffler.
Not all log six eBay headers are the same. If you don't want starter to #6 header tube interference learn how to recognize which eBay header #6 tube has a tight bend away from the starter. A header will increase power over a cast iron exhaust manifold. I run a Jones Y with a Mustang passenger side 2-1/4" over the rear end pipe adapted to a 2-1/2" turbo muffler.
A 2" turbo adapted to a 1-3/4" Falcon exhaust pipe can also provide a great power gain over the round 1-1/2" out let Falcon muffler.
Not all log six eBay headers are the same. If you don't want starter to #6 header tube interference learn how to recognize which eBay header #6 tube has a tight bend away from the starter. A header will increase power over a cast iron exhaust manifold. I run a Jones Y with a Mustang passenger side 2-1/4" over the rear end pipe adapted to a 2-1/2" turbo muffler.
jcom4179
Well-known member
Hey Chad, back pressure is not a good thing! especially for these motors, please take my following advice and I 100% guarantee you won't regret it. I understand everyone has there theories but please take it from someone who just did it. I did a whole lot of research before having the ebay long tube headers installed. I found for best sound and performance is to go straight back 2 1/4" with dual flowmaster 40's. No X or Y pipe. Just true dual exaust. I wish I had this information 2 years ago when I started this confusing journey. I paid a little extra for a complete stainless steel exaust. In my opinion it's worth the extra $200 to $300, as the ebay long tube stainless steel headers go as far back as a little shy of the middle of the passengers side door. They clear every component including the large starter. They're far enough away from the starter as not to effect it from the heat and extend back and even flare apart at the end and curve towards the middle of the car. Running my 67 with a 200 inline 6, side by side with my brothers 67 with a hipo 289 V8 and you really have to lift the hood to see which is the V8 and which is the 200 inline 6. The best way I can explain it is the motor can finally breath. It's like the motor has been exhaling through a straw!!! You really don't understand how restrictive the stock exaust manifold and exaust system is for the design and set up of these cool little motors, until you add the true dual exaust correctly. I will be adding some pics to this sight and hopefully do a short video on YouTube.
************ ***********
"This post is for anyone considering adding longtube stainless steel ebay headers on there 200 inline 6 mustang and was like me not knowing which set up works best for a noticeable upgrade in performance and that V8 rumble that turns heads." I hope this post helps people make the best decision on a true dual exaust on your 200 inline 6 mustang and put a smile on your face every time you start and drive your vintage Mustang or Falcon !!!
"Might sound a little corny, but there ya go. "
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jcom4179
Well-known member
Here are some pics. I did the best I could. NOTICE temporarily made a make shift stainless steel stove pipe hut /box attached with hose clamps for the choke to open and shut. Actually works great, better than old pipe filled with rust and dirt.
Attachments
jcom4179
Well-known member
Sorry for the late response. Ebay stainless steel long tube headers. 2 1/4" all the way back to flowmaster 40's. No Y or X pipe. Question : since it's probably gonna be never to be able to get my hands on freaking awsome aluminum intake that unfortunately stopped making after the designer who will be missed by everyone very unfortunately passed away. What would you consider a next best option, " other than trying to get a 250 Aussy head" . I was leaning towards the 1v to 2v weber kit sold with all the jets tuned to for 200 inline 6. Looks fairly easy to install. Between what I picked up on the long tube headers the motor now being able to exhale, would the Weber setup give it enough to inhale enough gas and air to make a noticeable difference, or do you have another suggestion for around the same $ and easy enough to do in my garage.
Thanks
jcom4179
Well-known member
67 mustang convertible. I did the magnet test with a pretty powerful magnet maybe neodimion. Did not stick to any of the header pipes. Which is a good thing
. I truly thought it was gonna pull right out of my fingers. It stuck to everything around it. Wish I put on rubber gloves. Everything under the hood of a vintage car somehow has grease on it.
I have the 2V adapter and the progressive Webber with stock exhaust. With that an upgrade ignition, made a big difference in drivability
. I think you will be fine adding headers to to combo. You only start to push the limits of the Webber when you have the modified large log head. Save the$! You can always add a carb down the road
jcom4179
Well-known member
Thanks for that info Don. Do you have any suggestions on who to buy the 1v to 2v weber carburater swap kit from. Definitely the kit that is jetted and tuned for the 200 inline 6. The motor is pretty tight only 68000 miles and hasn't seen a winter ever. I think it would compliment the long tube dual exaust.I have the 2V adapter and the progressive Webber with stock exhaust. With that an upgrade ignition, made a big difference in drivability
Thanks
Jeff
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