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jcom4179
Well-known member
Truthful words that absolutely hit the mark. Again I couldn't have said it better myself.
Thank you for reminding me why I got into this great hobby
TO enjoy it
Sorry I do not. Not sure if you understood me but to be clear the T5 would get the best fuel and performance over C4, 3 speed and 4 speed top loader.I'm not too worried about the fuel mileage, but I am surprised about the lack in performance. On the other hand I do get it. I just love driving a car with a stick shift, especially a mustang. Tell me do you know of any places that might sell most of the parts I would need for installing a clutch system. I'm hoping someone see's the post I put up yesterday about finding someone who has at least some of the many clutch parts I need.
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jcom4179
Well-known member
I've seen 200 inline mustangs with the T5 and it works excellent. Especially for highway driving, allowing the car to cruise at 70 mph or more with low rpms which is, like you said better for gas mileage and performance. I just don't have $5000 or more to purchase a T5. I have a completely rebuilt 3 speed transmission and my mustang is a low mileage all original numbers matching car other than the wheels and tires. I like the originality of the 3 speed top loader manual transmission because it keeps that originality of the car. Although if i had a brand new T5 sitting in my garage I can guarantee you that transmission would be going in my car without a second thought
The 3.03 3 speed is tough and durable. Wide gear ratios though, the rear gear ratio will play a bigger role in drivability and performance than a trans with more ratios and an auto with varying torque converter ratios.
If you want to know your rear ratio, jack up one rear wheel and rotate it two revolutions while counting the revolutions of the driveshaft. The driveshaft # is your ratio. (assuming an open diff.)
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“... I just don't have $5000 or more to..."
could I have 5K in my whole vehicle? Not even the top to bottom refresh of motor,
5 speed (& on & on) added together (yet assessor sez it’s a 20K$ car/jeep). 5K is for
the top of the line gone over 1st class transmis. There are other ways (most DIY) to
get there. Hopfully plans can B made for the right end product for the
application. However the car can B used till aquiring each’n every piece in that plan.
Dont give up 8^ )
could I have 5K in my whole vehicle? Not even the top to bottom refresh of motor,
5 speed (& on & on) added together (yet assessor sez it’s a 20K$ car/jeep). 5K is for
the top of the line gone over 1st class transmis. There are other ways (most DIY) to
get there. Hopfully plans can B made for the right end product for the
application. However the car can B used till aquiring each’n every piece in that plan.
Dont give up 8^ )
Remember too that one you replace the original auto transmission with a 3 speed, originality is out the window, doesn’t matter if it’s 3,4, 5 speed, it’s not original. I do understand the money thing and wanting to shift gears, but I don’t think you will gain much performance with just a swap to 3 speed. I have had both auto and 3 speed behind a 200. An auto, you just hold the gas and the transmission knows when to shift, 3 speed, seat of your pants tells you to shift by 2500 rpm. Both need carb and spark upgrades. I’ve never drive a c4 with the upgrades, but a 3 speed if definitely improved with the upgrades. Just info, fwiw
again, the reason foran over all plan B4 the start.
One to stick to the whole process thru.
Define the final application 1st, the rest often flows
(yes, even my multi-purpose) from there once U no
ur current rig, its capabilities, what U want to get to,
and the component change to get there.
Now this thread has come quite aways from ‘header’
to near 100 posts, 5 pages. Tech Archive it there for your
research, this I hear is outta print:
www.vintageinlines.com
but not this:
I’d suggest an ignit tune up (look here if unfamiliar) then a carb 1 or straight to 38/38 buy (rebuild B4
install w/mike’s parts). Get it running right, meanwhile more research per above, Drew. Run it, enjoy,
develop the plan, save the $. THEN back here if needing ideas. Incremental improvements toward the goal.
One to stick to the whole process thru.
Define the final application 1st, the rest often flows
(yes, even my multi-purpose) from there once U no
ur current rig, its capabilities, what U want to get to,
and the component change to get there.
Now this thread has come quite aways from ‘header’
to near 100 posts, 5 pages. Tech Archive it there for your
research, this I hear is outta print:
The Ford Falcon SIX Cylinder PERFORMANCE HANDBOOK | Vintage Inlines
The Ford Falcon SIX Cylinder Performance Handbook has 107 pages of History, Facts, and Information to help you get more power out of your small Ford SIX. This engine was used in Falcons, Mustangs, Fairlaines, and Comets in the 60’s. It was the FoMoCo workhorse in Mavericks, Granadas, and...
I’d suggest an ignit tune up (look here if unfamiliar) then a carb 1 or straight to 38/38 buy (rebuild B4
install w/mike’s parts). Get it running right, meanwhile more research per above, Drew. Run it, enjoy,
develop the plan, save the $. THEN back here if needing ideas. Incremental improvements toward the goal.
Nice feature for that header.
Sorry I missed this somehow but yes head options are limited. If I had to have other than the log head right away I would find an Aussie head which apparently is a lengthy and expensive task. But as we have been reading lately the direct mount Rochester carb (with hogging out the intake bore) is yielding a considerable power increase, DIY attainable, inexpensive and a good intermediate step until more head options become available. The small base Rochester might be a nice match for your 200.
jcom4179
Well-known member
I've heard nothing but good things about the Rochester carburators. Another member just sent me some pics of his huge 2v Rochester Marine carburator. He did a very cool snorkel that comes out of the left side of the air cleaner directly to the front grill. Carburator looks gigantic. Very cool setup
Thank you for getting back to me
Cheers
Jeff
We have certainly gotten way off the track of the initial thread, but since we're there anyway, I'll say that my least favorite thing about my 6 cylinder Mustang is the 3 speed trans. @jcom4179 Have you driven a car with the 200 / 3 speed combo? If not, definitely do it asap. The time to decide if you like it or not is absolutely BEFORE committing to the time and expense of installing that setup in your car. In my opinion, the ratios are just too wide for the powerband of the 200 six, plus the shifter is really clunky and feels much more disconnected than the 4 speed, even after I replaced all the shifter and linkage bushings. It really begs to have a 4th gear in there, and if doing a swap, of course, you might as well go to a T5 vs a 4 speed. That is exactly my plan for the future of my car. A brand new T5z is $2000 from Summit or Jegs and an install kit is $450. You can reuse the 3 speed bellhousing, clutch fork, z bar, etc. and you can maybe find a used good T5 for much less. Clutch & pressure plate can be bought almost everywhere. If you don't have the pedal, z bar, and other little parts, those will require some chasing down. Your best bet is a Mustang parts hoarder or someplace that deals in used parts, though I'm sure it's all available new for more $.
I'm certainly not trying to tell you what you should do with your car, just letting you know my experience with that transmission. I will also second @chad's good advice to sit down and write out a plan for what you want to add / modify to get the car to where you will enjoy it the most. Without a cohesive plan, things go off the rails pretty easily, money gets spent on parts you don't use, parts incompatibility usually happens, and your car might never get to the stage you want it to be at. Ask me how I know... I made all those mistakes on my high school Mustang when I was young and inexperienced.
If your car still has the factory rear end, it is most likely a 2.83 ratio, as that is what came standard for the 200 / C4 auto cars, vs the 3.20 diff standard for the 3 speed manual.
https://calponycars.com/collections...ts/1967-6-cylinder-t-5-5-speed-conversion-kit
I'm certainly not trying to tell you what you should do with your car, just letting you know my experience with that transmission. I will also second @chad's good advice to sit down and write out a plan for what you want to add / modify to get the car to where you will enjoy it the most. Without a cohesive plan, things go off the rails pretty easily, money gets spent on parts you don't use, parts incompatibility usually happens, and your car might never get to the stage you want it to be at. Ask me how I know... I made all those mistakes on my high school Mustang when I was young and inexperienced.
If your car still has the factory rear end, it is most likely a 2.83 ratio, as that is what came standard for the 200 / C4 auto cars, vs the 3.20 diff standard for the 3 speed manual.
https://calponycars.com/collections...ts/1967-6-cylinder-t-5-5-speed-conversion-kit
@jcom4179 One more thing, this time about carburetors - whatever carb you eventually choose, there will be linkage, PCV, and other issues that will need to be addressed / modified in order to make a non-stock part work. While that can be frustrating, it's also some of the fun of DIY projects, plus you get the satisfaction of knowing you did it yourself.
Even if you buy the "pretuned" carb, it is 99% likely not going to be perfect out of the box. Close, yes, but there are too many variables (age & compression of engine, exhaust flow, trans and differential ratios, temperature, humidity and altitude of where you live, etc. etc.) for someone to jet it perfectly from afar. After it's installed and running, find someone locally who knows how to tune carburetors and have them work some hands-on magic. Both performance and mileage will likely be greatly improved.
Thanks again for all the header pics. It's great to see a set installed vs just the same 6 photos that are on all the eBay listings.
Even if you buy the "pretuned" carb, it is 99% likely not going to be perfect out of the box. Close, yes, but there are too many variables (age & compression of engine, exhaust flow, trans and differential ratios, temperature, humidity and altitude of where you live, etc. etc.) for someone to jet it perfectly from afar. After it's installed and running, find someone locally who knows how to tune carburetors and have them work some hands-on magic. Both performance and mileage will likely be greatly improved.
Thanks again for all the header pics. It's great to see a set installed vs just the same 6 photos that are on all the eBay listings.
That seems like a good price for these headers. I like them, 189, long tube, built in port divider, no clearance issues, how can you do any better?
jcom4179
Well-known member
Hello, you know, I've never actually driven a 3 speed. I've watched videos, but I certainly see your point. You say it's kinda clunky and just not that enjoyable to drive, compared to a 4 speed or T5. I've driven plenty of 4 speeds and I love it. Awhile ago, 10 years ago a buddy of mine gave me the 3 speed manual transmission. It came out of one of his mustangs and it was completely rebuilt. Trust me if i wasn't given it for free, the 3 speed certainly wouldn't be my first choice. I do have a question for you, I found a T5 for sale, but it says in the description it came out of a 4 cylinder. Would that T5 be a good fit for my inline 6, or since it was made for a 4 cylinder do you think it would just not work. It would be great if it did as the guy is selling it completely rebuilt and is including all the clutch parts, "that probably won't fit my 67". When you have a moment please let me know what you think about that particular T5 possibly being a good fit for my car, or just a no go.
Oh ya, I 100 percent don't mind anyone including you that know more than I do about motors and transmissions etc telling me something like the 3 speed top loader might not be such a good thing to do. I appreciate the help knowledge and experience a few of you guys have shared with me concerning what upgrades would work best.
Thank you for the heads up on the 3 speed.
Much appreciated
Jeff
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Hope this T5 pdf opens for you and is useful if you decide to go that route. I collect info I find interesting. The 3.03 is sturdy but a 4sp or 5sp with od will greatly enhance drivability and your everyday overall experience as stated previously. In my opinion the T5 is a performance upgrade with a close ratio 4 speed to keep the six at good rpm range and the od gear to provide civilized freeway cruising at 70 mph while the 200 just loafs along at lower rpm. It will drive more like a modern sports car. The NV3550 5sp od really changed the driving experience in my Bronco.
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