How do I taper the carb adapter for the 1101....David-CZLN

[Anonymous]

Hey guys

Im not quite ready to dive into the 2bbl world just yet. Ive just succesfully converted to a Duraspark II . I am looking at switching from the Autolite 1100 to the 1101.
CZLN-David says to taper the carb adapter to adapt to the larger butterfly on the 1101. I also still have the hot water plate under the carb.

1) Do I need to ditch the hot water plate?..

2) If not, how do I physically taper the plate for the larger butterfly on the 1101..Dremel??...how much do I taper? It would be easier to grind on the plate than messing with the manifold hole I guess.

3) Would it be a good time to disconnect the heater hoses from this plate and mate them together ?. What do I do to the holes in the plate if I do remove the heater hoses.

Also, as far as linkage, there are no adaptations to make, is that correct ?
...and, Im having a hard time finding an 1101 ..Anyone know where I can get one..I dont want to have to pay Pony Carbs prices

Hope all that made sense
Kelly

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Kelly:

It sure does make sense.

1. Yes, I doubt that you will ever need the hot water under the carb in TX. It is there to prevent carb icing in more northern climes. There is no need to plug the holes. The Siamized exhaust ports below the carb provide more than enough ambiant heat anyway

The 1st time I did what you're doing I just used a piece of lead plumbing pipe to splice the two ends together and put a hose clamp on each. It wasn't pretty, but alot easier than remove the heater to route a new, one piece hose. The hot water adapter is also the carb adapter

2. If you set the 1101 on your stock adapter you will note that the butterfly will not open because it is larger than the hole. Again, the 1st time I went down this road I tapered the hole with a rat tail file, by hand. A Dremel would surely be faster, but be careful not to go through or you'll have an adventure in JB Weld sculpting to plug the hole and stop the vacuum leak. The stock carb adapter is softer that the log manifold and alot easier to reshape. It also orients the carb so that stock linkage & gas line will line up. Your stock air cleaner will also fit this carb.

I hope this makes sense. Be sure to post results. My experiences with this carb, even on a C/E smog head were very positive. It took me awhile to figure out to hook the '68 distributor to the ported vacuum source ratier than full manifold vacuum. It sure got good mileage on the highway, and gave me some 1st hand lessons on spark plug peppering and glazing.

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

Thank you David

Ive checked Auto Zone's online catalog, and ebay for an 1101 without success. Anyone have a connection for this carb? Like I said, I really dont want to have to send my ol 1100 as a core and pay what they want...unless that's my only option

Kelly

 

[StraightSixer]

Have you tried NAPA or Autozone in person at the store or over the phone, locally of course? I called my Autozone and they had them readily available. I just asked for a carb off a 1969 mustang equipped with a 250. About 110 bucks I think including core charge.

J. Paul 8)

 

[Anonymous]

J. Paul

I didnt see the forest for the trees. I was only searching only for a carb for the 66 200. I will expand my search to include the 69 250 and see what happens.

Thanks
Kelly