M112 - 300 Build for the '56

Matchbot does not take into account the power taken from the crankshaft to turn the supercharger so those figures are gross which is good for figuring fuel consumption but it is not the flywheel power.

If the compression is low enough, the timing is pulled back enough and the cam is big enough there is no problem running without any cooling.
However there is a big power difference between no cooling and cooling especially if you are injecting methanol.

Most of the time you begin the water/methanol injection as you cross 4 lbs of boost.
Paul, please forgive my ignorance, but is all of this still based on a 14.7 to 1 stociometric?
 
Why does this drop? Do to the methanol?
Maybe I misunderstood the question.
When you are under boost without intercooling the air/fuel ratio needs to be rich and in the 11s
Not sure what the ratio will read with the water/meth injection but it will go lower again.
 
Okay another question lol...Paul I swear man, I'm sorry.

What size(how many) water/meth nozzles should I be looking at? The holley is a single unit and says it is good for 800hp? Am I good to go with one?
 
The Holley system has three nozzles available. You get to choose which one to buy.
557-103 – Solenoid/Nozzle Assembly (includes bung) 600cc/min – 400 HP engines
557-105 - Solenoid/Nozzle Assembly (includes bung) 900cc/min – 600 HP engines
557-106 - Solenoid/Nozzle Assembly (includes bung) 1000cc/min – 800 HP engines

The HP will select one of the two unused fuel injector drivers to modulate the nozzle when you configure the WM system in the software.
It will also assign an output for the pump relay.
It will also configure an input for low water and an output for a low water warning light.
 
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You asked if individual O2 bungs on each runner were required to tune sequentually, and I answered that correctly. Yes, you either need individual o2 bungs, EGT bungs or just best guess it by plug reading. No, you can not tune each cylinder individually without individual readings. As I also stated, multiple sensors are not needed unless you are wanting real time correction and a single sensor can be used, you just have to move it and log.
 
Then I misunderstood thinking it was 6 bungs with 6 sensors.
 
You asked if individual O2 bungs on each runner were required to tune sequentually, and I answered that correctly. Yes, you either need individual o2 bungs, EGT bungs or just best guess it by plug reading. No, you can not tune each cylinder individually without individual readings. As I also stated, multiple sensors are not needed unless you are wanting real time correction and a single sensor can be used, you just have to move it and log.
Don't take me questioning it the wrong way...

My local machine shop has an engine dyno, problem is, I don't know how to get this engine on it since I am using Holley HP instead of a carb...in my mind everything is pretty much going to have to be installed in the truck (ecm, water meth, etc) and then take it to a chassis dyno. I guess I could leave my engine harness long, and rewire it later, same for the meth.

The chassis dyno guy is new in town (only one within a 100 miles). When I talked to him he said I would have to supply the holley software for him to tune with, so apparently he hasn't done much with holley...

After he got snippy about 6 O2 bungs, and said to stick with one, I dropped it... But I had more questions, like:

With six cylinders if you have one lean and one rich, won't they balance out by the time they get to the O2 sensor?

Or does the O2 sensor pick it up in pulses from the firing order?

If he tunes it with one, in one collector, can I safely move it to each runner and data log on my own?
 
The Holley system has three nozzles available. You get to choose which one to buy.
557-103 – Solenoid/Nozzle Assembly (includes bung) 600cc/min – 400 HP engines
557-105 - Solenoid/Nozzle Assembly (includes bung) 900cc/min – 600 HP engines
557-106 - Solenoid/Nozzle Assembly (includes bung) 1000cc/min – 800 HP engines

The HP will select one of the two unused fuel injector drivers to modulate the nozzle when you configure the WM system in the software.
It will also assign an output for the pump relay.
It will also configure an input for low water and an output for a low water warning light.
That is what I gathered as well. I think you actually need two injector drivers, one for the nozzle and one for the pump.

Issue is the only one available is 557-106 which is 1000cc/min....800 HP, I'm not sure if the others are discontinued or if they are just out of stock, I'll put a call in today and find out...
 
Don't take me questioning it the wrong way...

My local machine shop has an engine dyno, problem is, I don't know how to get this engine on it since I am using Holley HP instead of a carb...in my mind everything is pretty much going to have to be installed in the truck (ecm, water meth, etc) and then take it to a chassis dyno. I guess I could leave my engine harness long, and rewire it later, same for the meth.

The chassis dyno guy is new in town (only one within a 100 miles). When I talked to him he said I would have to supply the holley software for him to tune with, so apparently he hasn't done much with holley...

After he got snippy about 6 O2 bungs, and said to stick with one, I dropped it... But I had more questions, like:

With six cylinders if you have one lean and one rich, won't they balance out by the time they get to the O2 sensor?

Or does the O2 sensor pick it up in pulses from the firing order?

If he tunes it with one, in one collector, can I safely move it to each runner and data log on my own?
It sounds like he doesn't want to spend the time trimming cylinders. The reading will average from all cylinders when it merges in the collector - no pulses can be identified there, sensors aren't fast enough for that and software isn't available if they were. Once tuned safely, you can log individual cylinders later and make individual changes based on those logs after the fact. Tunes also normally change a bit from engine dyno to in vehicle road use, so don't be surprised if it needs more tuning once on the road.
 
Holley says they are discontinued.

They only offer the 1000cc nozzle, any chance that is too much?
You will be Pulse Width Modulating the nozzle similar to how fuel injectors operate.
It will just use a shorter pulse width to get the same flow as the smaller nozzles
 
Jumping Around...I noticed earlier you mentioned a 6.5:1 dynamic compression ratio. Out of curiosity, why is that a good number? Is that just a general?

Stock Piston in hole: 0.018
Gasket: .050/4.165
Chamber: 76cc
Bore: 4.030
Stroke: 3.98
Dish: 22cc

Static: 8.3:1

Rod Length: 6.21
IVC@.050 : 35 (Assuming 218/220, LSA 114, Intake CL 106)

Dynamic 7.4:1
 
My question is where do you think I should mount my water/meth injector?

Which location after the SC?

Or should I try use the EGR port and inject prior to the rotors?

Or on the opposite side closer to the intake?

I like the thought of injecting it under the SC. It looks like that would give it a good place to mix.

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All that's left on the intake is welding it up, welding up the polished stainless crossover, mounting the BOV, Water/meth injector, and the sensor ports.
 
Mount the water/meth injector under the supercharger facing toward the exit pipe if possible.

An 8.3 static compression is good.
You will be using a big cam with the .006" intake duration close to 290 degrees.
The DCR will be around 6.3

DCR's in the low to mid 6s seems to work well with non-intercooled supercharged engines
 
Mount the water/meth injector under the supercharger facing toward the exit pipe if possible.

An 8.3 static compression is good.
You will be using a big cam with the .006" intake duration close to 290 degrees.
The DCR will be around 6.3

DCR's in the low to mid 6s seems to work well with non-intercooled supercharged engines
Should I return the air from the BOV to the intake (thinking EGR valve hole, or does it need to go before the throttle body?

Or should I just vent to atmosphere?
 
Since the throttle body is at the inlet side of the supercharger you don't need a BOV.
 
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