M112 - 300 Build for the '56

The only sensor that needs a 3/8 hole is the air temp sensor. You may need up to three 1/8 holes.
The air sensor is the only one that protrudes into the manifold and is designed to be in the main airflow.
 
pmuller9 said:
The only sensor that needs a 3/8 hole is the air temp sensor. You may need up to three 1/8 holes.
The air sensor is the only one that protrudes into the manifold and is designed to be in the main airflow.
Click to expand...
What would the other three be? One is for the map, so the other two?

It wouldn't look the best, but I just figured with the extra 3/8...I could bush it down.
 
clintonvillian said:
What would the other three be? One is for the map, so the other two?
Click to expand...
One as you said would be for the MAP sensor
Another for the boost referenced fuel pressure regulator
One in case you decide to do boost control

The new plate looks great.
 
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pmuller9 said:
One as you said would be for the MAP sensor
Another for the boost referenced fuel pressure regulator
One in case you decide to do boost control

The new plate looks great.
Click to expand...
Yeah it looks good. Not real happy with how it tapped. Part of the threads tore out during tapping and I'm not sure why. Took my time, moved forward and back to clear the chips, and used tap magic. Didn't help.

I have never had something behave this way when tapping. Typically you end up cross threading it or break the tap off.

This was my second piece, and it did the same as the first. I decided to go ahead with it, but It will require some teflon to get it to seal I'm sure.
 
Soldmy66 said:
Should he use the yellow sealant, since it is used in an environment with gasoline?
Click to expand...
Teflon will work fine. For gasoline you should generally avoid brush on sealants that can be cut by solvents.

That said, I've got the blue stuff you get in a can at home depot successfully in service in a couple carbeurated applications with no leaks yet. I've never tried to clean up that stuff with gasonline but I know alcohol will cut it.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Teflon will work fine. For gasoline you should generally avoid brush on sealants that can be cut by solvents.

That said, I've got the blue stuff you get in a can at home depot successfully in service in a couple carbeurated applications with no leaks yet. I've never tried to clean up that stuff with gasonline but I know alcohol will cut it.
Click to expand...
I've been using permatex high tack on all of my fuel fittings. It may work on this, but I may also need something a little thicker....
 
clintonvillian said:
What do you guys think of this profile...

1800-5500 rpm

The RPM is a little higher on it than where I wanted to be ...
Click to expand...

The profile and rpm range is good.
The supercharger will take care of the low end torque while a little larger cam will help with the engine's volumetric efficiency at the upper end and keep the supercharger running more efficiently and cooler.

When you degree the cam the intake lobe center can fall between 110 to 112 degrees ATDC.
Don't let it go earlier than 110.
 
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I'm liking this a lot.
I hope you have some spare T5's, I can't see that one lasting with the torque this should make.
 
20210329_121324_HDR~2.jpg

Thinking about sticking the HP under the drivers dash....Any issue mounting the MAP beside it? It is about 3' from the nipple in the intake.
 
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