My 200 build

[67drewstang]

I've been eagerly reading through the stats and questions about building a 200 ci in this forum, and have come to the point where I finally know enough to ask a semi-intelligent question.

Here is my idea/plan:

I have a 32,000 mile original 200 in my 67 Mustang. It runs really well, now that I've installed the DSII kit from Classic Inlines. My plan is to do a mild performance build in order to retain good driveability while being able to get better performance.

Based on how it runs right now, I don't think I'll need to touch the bottom end.

My next step is to replace the head with a large valve log head, port it, hardened valve seats, new valve springs, port dividers, and milled for a 2V carb. I'm looking at o/a 9 - 9.5 C.R. At that time, will install headers and a dual 2 inch exhaust.

Right now it's running a C4 into an 8 inch 3.00 to 1 diff. My next step once I have the engine modded, is to install a T5 and a 3.40 or 3.55 diff. (clutch pedal, check). But the T5 is down the road a ways, I think.

My three questions are this:
1. Should I recurve my distributor with the head replacement in mind, even though I may drive it stock for a while before that gets done?

2. What carb should I go with? I'm not seeing anything that screams "easy button" among the 2V carb replacements. Each has its drawbacks.

3. I am clueless as to cams. I would gladly just take any/all advice about what camshaft to go with; including whether it would be worthwhile just to regrind what's in there to optimize the setup I've described.

Thank you for your input. I especially welcome anyone who cares to shoot holes in my planned build.

Drew

 

[170-3tree]

Sounds like you've got a great base started. To answer your questions in order.
1) build the distributor for your end result, I.e. do it once.
2) it seems most go with the Holley 2300 seriesin this, personally, I'd suggest the 350 cfm just based on expected purpose and performance.
3) cams are always the question. Most stick with the 264-264 by 110* others have used different lobe centers and durations depending on final expectations. While running the c4 in there, you'll want to keep a pretty tamecamfor best disability without having to get a converter switched up.

Seems as of late people are advocating making the big step first if you think you'll ever do it and don't waste money on stock parts, get the aluminium head and call it done. It's entirely up to you, but what I did because I had the cash right then.

Before you check off the bottom end as all good, I'd suggest doing tests on it to ensure it is in fact in good shape. ( compression and Leak down tests) just because age can be as bad as miles in these old engines.

Best of luck, I'll be keeping tuned for updates on your ventures!

 

[67drewstang]

Would it be safe to say that I could stick with a stock cam until I'm ready for the T5? While I wouldn't be taking full advantage of the engine potential, would it hurt anything?

The head I am looking at would be about a grand, finished. The aluminum head is 2 grand, of course. Unless there is some additional cost to an aluminum head?

Drew

 

[67drewstang]

I am completely rethinking this. I took my Mustang out for a test drive last night to see how my latest suspension mods were doing. While tearing around, just prior to a snow storm hitting, I realized two things. First, I love this car more than when I bought it in 1976, and second, all I really want are

1. Hardened valve seats (peace of mind meets convenience)
2. Better exhaust noise
3. Slightly better performance.

I would probably be happy with a newer, large valve head (comes with hardened valve seats), a YF single barreled carb off a 300 Six and headers with 2 inch pipes. And I'm keeping the C4. I "might" go with a 3.25 diff someday, but we'll see.

 

[170-3tree]

Sounds like a sedate easily budgeted build. While you had the head off a cam with 264* duration on both sides paired with either a 110* or 112* separation angle would help both the performance and sound of your ride, and cost four hundred bucks to you. While still being googly drivable and pretty economical to you. Lighter can options are out there by isky and comp cams.

 

[Econoline]

Personally, I think if it were me and I was going through the trouble of replacing the head, I'd go the extra mile and replace the cam and upgrade the the timing set to a double roller. You could have the proper springs installed while the head is in to be spec'd. Even a mild aftermarket cam is going to be a improvement over stock. And you'll need to upgrade the dist. when you can the autolite.

 

[67drewstang]

Personally, I think if it were me and I was going through the trouble of replacing the head, I'd go the extra mile and replace the cam and upgrade the the timing set to a double roller. You could have the proper springs installed while the head is in to be spec'd. Even a mild aftermarket cam is going to be a improvement over stock. And you'll need to upgrade the dist. when you can the autolite.

Already have a DSII.

And it likes the autolite 1100 fine, despite folks saying it wouldn't work. I'm thinking I am going to push all of this a longer ways down the road. Evidently one cannot even touch these engines without $3000 ready to spend, and I'm not ready to spend that amount of cash at this time.

Drew

 

[67drewstang]

Well, I have found another recipe for my build, from a wise sage.

I am going to do a mild hop up, using mainly stock parts.

1. 250 head, with large valves, ported and polished, hardened seats and redone valve train.

2. 1968 improved exhaust manifold, flowing through 2" pipe.

3. Stock 250 camshaft.

4. Autolite 1200 carb, flowing 200 cfm.

5. Reprofiled DSII ignition

I'm looking at under $1000, all in.

 

[67drewstang]

Aaand, the head has shown up.

Pretty lil cuss, ain't it?

It's a 250 head, with balanced combustion chambers, milled, large valves, pocket ported with hardened valve seats and a fresh three angle valve job.

My head wasn't rebuildable, so I still have it on the car. This is a rebuilt head I purchased from a rebuilder.

I'm still waiting for an Autolite 1200 and a '68 exhaust manifold that are on the way.

I am going to intentionally avoid faking a V8 exhaust sound with this; will put a single 2" exhaust on it going straight back to enhance that I-6 "buzz". And keep the build under $1000, of course.

 

[67drewstang]

A few notes: I went with new head bolts from AMK Products https://www.amkproducts.com. They cost $43, shipped, and if I had to do it again, would probably go with ARP studs. The risk of snapping a bolt, plus the weird way head bolts torque, plus the annoyance of lining up the head gasket has convinced me that studs are the answer.

The Falcon Six manual calls for Chevy Exhaust washers to spread out the torque of the bolts. Our local parts stores have no clue what they are. But True Value carries 7/16 Grade 8 hardened engine washers that appear to work wonderfully, for 31 cents a pop. They are even engraved on the top for those who don't know which direction a hardened washer goes.

Lastly, this is fun. And when I am finished, it will look like it's a factory job under the hood, though it won't be "stock" at all.

 

[bmbm40]

Sounds like a good plan, moderately priced and probably get a good performance increase. You can always do more later if you felt it was needed.

 

[chad]

A few notes: I went with new head bolts from AMK Products https://www.amkproducts.com. They cost $43, shipped, and if I had to do it again, would probably go with ARP studs. The risk of snapping a bolt, plus the weird way head bolts torque, plus the annoyance of lining up the head gasket has convinced me that studs are the answer.
The Falcon Six manual calls for Chevy Exhaust washers to spread out the torque of the bolts. Our local parts stores have no clue what they are. But True Value carries 7/16 Grade 8 hardened engine washers that appear to work wonderfully, for 31 cents a pop. They are even engraved on the top for those who don't know which direction a hardened washer goes.
Lastly, this is fun. And when I am finished, it will look like it's a factory job under the hood, though it won't be "stock" at all.

length & thread pitch? what bolts to complete?
Thanks Drew!

 

[candyapple66]

So you put washers under the headbolts,,, I had my head redone with a minimal amount taken off the surface of the head,,, would washers be recommended anyways? Thx

 

[JackFish]

Not necessarily. Easy to check.
Take plastic straw, or some other narrow diameter measuring tool.
Insert in bolt hole. Measure depth.
Compare to bolt.
If the difference is less than the thickness of a washer then yes, use a washer.
Or a slightly shorter bolt or even studs.

 

[67drewstang]

According the the Falcon Six manual, they recommend washers regardless. their theory is that it spreads out the load on the bolt head as you torque it. I don't imagine it makes a huge difference.

As far as the studs are concerned, I'd just order a set from this site's sponsor. Those will work.

Drew

 

[bmbm40]

Looks like you are making progress on a good build. You mentioned your current head can not be rebuilt but is on the motor now so you are driving it? What kind of issues are you having? I am planning on rebuilding my current head to the specs of your new one and since it runs fine I have assumed it is probably sound. Thanks.

 

[67drewstang]

I ran it 37 years with retarded advance, so the exhaust side of the head is badly eroded. The exhaust manifold barely mates to the head. I'm using a nut over some washers on the #1 exhaust bolt, as the part it's supposed to screw into is mostly gone.

 

[autoX65]

I like where you are going with this...Ive been down the same road had my 200 in my 65 for many years and plenty of miles so just finally got the itch to build it up alittle even though I really drive this engine to the max every time and it is bullet proof.

I am in the same mind set with my car and I purchases a 150 dollar original 73 bronco large log head with 65k miles all original running. I had a 1970 ford mustang holley model 1940 that was meant for the large log head with the 1.75 inch bore! would be up there with the large bore carter in performance. I wanted to run that really bad because I had great success with about 3-4 of the small barrel holleys I rebuilt and tested on my engine some with the spark control valve and load o matic some with out. but I sold it just about a week ago because I bought a holley two barrel progessive 2300 model with 500cfm so mine head is still at the machine shop getting stainless steel valves and hardened seats and the direct mount 2 barrel conversion all going to be brazed and built up then machined and port pocket intakes and blend the bowls as well as compete exhaust runner ported heavily.

So I would like to hear how yours runs because all ive ever drove is my stock 200 setup highly tuned and maintained with electric ignigion and mild cam and its been great so let me know how the difference feels through out the rpm band please because I really was so close and wanted to use the one barrel on my car for efficiency and wanted a slight increase and wanted to know how it feels and drives because your doing these upgrades in a nice manner i can appreciate

 

[67drewstang]

It runs much better, now. It no longer diesels when hot or on shut down.

I had to rejet it, but I'm not sure what jet works, as I found random unmarked jet in my toolbox and it seems to work ok.

I have driven it a thousand miles in the last month (!!!!) but am not certain it's perfect just yet.

It sometimes stumbles when hot, and gives me a mildly hard start if I shut it down hot.

Otherwise, it now goes 80 mph down the interstate with little effort.

 

[bubba22349]

You should pull the plugs now and see how they look