Fortunately the rods are fine. I had them checked for straightness, twist, sized and hung on the new pistons.
All Small Six My 200 CI mystery
- Thread starter awasson
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
I've always reused the factory rod bolts/nuts. Including on diesel rebuilds, some with several million miles. High RPM is what will overload these fasteners, all normal driving and occasional up-to-red-line acceleration does not threaten these original parts, assuming they were unstressed previously.Torque them to the middle of the recommended range. It's instinct to want to max the tension. Don't. Example, 240 engine rods: 40-45 pounds. Installed @ 42-43 lbs.
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I agree Frank, most cases will be fine. It goes back to the over cautious thing. I also was doing some reading a couple months ago on bolts/ threads. I read torqued bolts can, over time, get hardened, like bending steel back and forth, eventually breaking. The bolts actually get stressed from the forces they are retaining. That is why proper torque is needed, too little and it actually lets the bolts flex/ stretch more with each stroke. A brief summary. Not knowing the history of and engine, for what they cost…..
www.boltscience.com
Bolt Science Web Site
Thanks @Frank I had the same thoughts about the rods. I did some reading about rod failure a while back and it seems to me that all of the examples of rod failure I came across were the result of boosted engines that experienced detonation or that were boosted to extremes.
I’d like to build a more radical engine sometime in the future but this one is being built for reliability and a little fun; it’s not going to be making demands beyond what the internals were engineered for.
I’d like to build a more radical engine sometime in the future but this one is being built for reliability and a little fun; it’s not going to be making demands beyond what the internals were engineered for.
I agree Frank, most cases will be fine. It goes back to the over cautious thing. I also was doing some reading a couple months ago on bolts/ threads. I read torqued bolts can, over time, get hardened, like bending steel back and forth, eventually breaking. The bolts actually get stressed from the forces they are retaining. That is why proper torque is needed, too little and it actually lets the bolts flex/ stretch more with each stroke. A brief summary. Not knowing the history of and engine, for what they cost…..
Bolt Science Web Site
I got 'cha Don. The ARP fasteners, etc are a legit upgrade- have a set in the back that didn't get used after all on the 240. I reattach every crankshaft fastener exactly where it came out/off, with the rod nuts on the same bolt, facing the same direction. Surely unnecessary, I won't deny- but I've never had an engine failure yet, and some of my former diesels were some tired 'ol souls.
I feel quite convinced that asking more power of an aged engine than it's intended design either by fueling or (especially) high RPM is when risk to stock/used crank fasteners increases quickly. We've all witnessed it with gas engines. Applies to diesels too- turn up the injection pump up to it's max specified fueling, leave the speed governor alone, button 'er up and take off down the road for another decade.
I'm back! Just back from the post office across the border. I should buy a lottery ticket because I just had the best crossing ever. There I am, two boxes of parts amounting to about $1000 USD; Clay Smith camshaft, lifters, ARP head stud kit, Adjustable Double Roller timing kit and a new Dual Bowl master cylinder with Booster. I drove up to the border guard window, told him what I had to declare, what it was worth and what it was for.
He said, have a nice day and returned my passport
That never happens!
Anyway, I've been stalled out on buttoning up the bottom end until that arrived so this weekend I'm back to assembly. Crank, pistons and rods are in so the cam will go in this weekend and I'll have to beg, borrow or steal the tools to index it per the Clay Smith recomendations.
He said, have a nice day and returned my passport
That never happens!Anyway, I've been stalled out on buttoning up the bottom end until that arrived so this weekend I'm back to assembly. Crank, pistons and rods are in so the cam will go in this weekend and I'll have to beg, borrow or steal the tools to index it per the Clay Smith recomendations.
Hey guys,
When I had the block machined the machine shop removed and replaced the freeze plugs but the one just above the oil filter wasn’t replaced. I suspect they thought that the passage was being used. Can someone advise me of the correct part to order?
Thanks,
Andrew
When I had the block machined the machine shop removed and replaced the freeze plugs but the one just above the oil filter wasn’t replaced. I suspect they thought that the passage was being used. Can someone advise me of the correct part to order?
Thanks,
Andrew
Latest assembly news. Cam, timing chain and gears are in. I do need to degree the cam, so I’ll be renting a dial indicator and a degree wheel to make that happen. Once that’s done, I’ll torque the cam gear and button the bottom end so I can assemble the top end.
Thanks Don,Did you find one? Mine was not removed, so I just left it.. I figured worst cast it could be fairly easily replaced later. Is your out or still in? I would think take a measurement with vernier calipers and go to NAPA, I would think they would have a selection
I have not replaced it yet. I’ll have to do as you suggest and find one at Napa or Lordco or one of the other parts shops. The local Napa looks like they’ve got a good selection.
NAPA to the rescue. 1" freeze plug and I'm done. I used Locktite 262 red per an article I read many years ago. I've also read that sealant isn't necessary and I've read that anything goes for sealant from RTV silicon to thread sealant so I'm not particularly fussed about that.
Waiting for my degree wheel to arrive and then I can clock the cam.
Waiting for my degree wheel to arrive and then I can clock the cam.
. A bright point… it won’t be leaked coolant Think that C6 is the last year the blocks had it, I know that C8 does not have it. Does anyone have a C7 ? does it have it or not. I have never seen one.
Sorry awasson, for the slight detour.
Sorry awasson, for the slight detour.
No problem at all with the detour. I was looking at the photo late last night and realized that it was in the lifter gallery and not the water jacket myself and was wondering what it was for as well.
I saw a 65 Engine out of a Falcon a few months ago that had some sort of fitting attached to it. I didn’t pay it a lot of interest because the tail section of the block wouldn’t bolt up to my bell housing but I did make a mental note of that port being used. I just had another look at the photo of that engine and I can see that indeed it does not have a PVC on the valve cover. Neat.
Thank you, But Don, does the block have a C7 casting number, that is on the block by exhaust manifold exhaust pipe connection, or a C6?
Sorry again.
Sorry again.
