My Budget 250 build

Hi Mike do you have the cam spacer ring (wedding ring), the correct dowel pin, and the cam thrust plate with its bolts? Good luck :nod: (y)
 
Econoline":31lnsp89 said:
Can you give us a picture of the timing gears in that set?

Here you go.
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bubba22349":31lnsp89 said:
Hi Mike do you have the cam spacer ring (wedding ring), the correct dowel pin, and the cam thrust plate with its bolts? Good luck :nod: (y)

I should have two original cams sitting around so I will check for the ring, new dowel pin, and the original thrust plate with bolts in a baggy.

See Ya,
Mike
 
Pulled the spacer ring off of the old cam and the new sprocket pin.
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Installed them on the new cam, the spacer ring goes on with the flat side out and the chamfered side in (at least that is how it was on the original)
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I lubed it up and shoved it in the engine but that was as far as I got, I spent the day searching for the thrust plate, after digging through the drawer about 5 times, and removing all the bags of bolts and stuff in there, I gave up and dug out the 200 plate and bolts that were still gungy, before I had a chance to clean them up I looked in the drawer for something else and there in plain sight was the baggy with the clean plate and bolts in it :roll:

The only other issue I had was the gear retaining bolt was too long (it was stacked with a lock washer and the thick washer, don't think it should have a lock washer) I tried the bolt from the 200 but it would only screw in about 1/2 way and then get super tight, I ended up trimming a grade 8 bolt down and putting it in there, I really haven't installed it fully yet was just collecting all the parts I don't have the gear on there yet.

I will look it up, but maybe someone can tell what way the oil slinger sits on the crankshaft, it does go in front of the cam gear, correct?

See Ya,
Mike
 
:beer: Looks excellent! Yes on the cam spacer gets installed with the bevel against the cam and then the pin go in after. Did you check how far the threads go into the cam to verafy the cam bolt length? I think they are suppose to turn in with some resistance at the last for a bit of an interference fit. Your right there is no lock washers used inside an engine only the cam bolt with its special big thick flat washer. Put some fresh red locktite on the cam bolt before you torque it down! Yes right on the oil slinger goes in front of crank timing gear with the bevel flange facing towards the front oil seal then the crankshaft Dampners hub goes tight against it. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
ooo, gettin excited here, comin together.
Go Mike!
:eek:
(y)
 
bubba22349":1rtpbyuf said:
Did you check how far the threads go into the cam to verafy the cam bolt length?

Yes I thought that maybe the hole was shallow but it is plenty deep, I could screw a head bolt all the way to the bottom.

Getting ready to pull the motor and get the cam install finished, the flywheel and clutch on and reinstall the motor for the final time. It will be all ready to go except the head, I have to make my exhaust spacers and the intake adapter.

Hopefully I am getting close to firing this thing off.

See Ya,
Mike
 
if U would plez - a couple, 3 pic of the 3-intake-change you'll cast for the log (the 6 sides would B perfect, but anything...
 
chad":lipjk0h6 said:
if U would plez - a couple, 3 pic of the 3-intake-change you'll cast for the log (the 6 sides would B perfect, but anything...

Here you go; top, right side, left side, bottom, front and back. You can see on the right side I am going to add a pad for the throttle cable bracket.
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Pulled the motor out for hopefully the last time today, going to get the cam install finished, paint it, etc and get it back in there, I need to do some work in the engine bay while it is out.
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Hoping to have it back down in there with-in the next couple of weeks. I Should have the ignition system put together by then and installed.

Any suggestions on spark plugs?

See Ya,
Mike
 
For your combo I think the Autolite 45's (Copper) are going to be very close on heat range, they are a very good lower cost plug, if you want to spend a bit more and want them to last even longer than you could go with some Platinum's. Great progress Mike! (y) :nod:
 
ahma poor writting communicator.
I meant after U burry that in sand & it burns away.
However U do the proces. I'd like to see the end profuct,
B4 or after finished but not yet mounted. I think U showed
the 'carb adapter', carb spacer, carb orinter (whatever its rightly
called ) U cast near 1/2 decade ago that way (I think it wuz U)...
 
chad":2o8w34je said:
U cast near 1/2 decade ago that way (I think it wuz U)...

Wasn't me.

chad":2o8w34je said:
I meant after U burry that in sand & it burns away.

I won't burn it away I am doing a split sand casting so I can reuse it, I think I may have mentioned it but I am going to cast 3 in case of mess-ups in either the casting or machining, I am hoping 3 will work out for me, if not I will melt them down and try again.

bubba22349":2o8w34je said:
Autolite 45's (Copper) are going to be very close on heat range, they are a very good lower cost plug, if you want to spend a bit more and want them to last even longer than you could go with some Platinum's.

Thanks Bubba I will check them out.

See Ya,
Mike
 
"... the casting or machining..."
still like to see/read as U go. I have done some of this, lost wax, only 'split' that were solid tho. And 2 others. Interested
in ur method esp when U say machining as well...subscribed and watchin :unsure:
 
Painted the motor today, used a POR15 engine paint kit I bought a few years ago, turned out nice, IMO.
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Ready to do the timing set now.

Going to try again to order a black distributor cap, that one was supposed to be but was blue when I got it. Thinking of painting the valve cover back silver again, satin nickel is what I painted the timing cover and thermostat housing with, looks a lot like aluminum I think.

I went ahead and stuck my ARP head studs in, I didn't install them yet, just to confirm, the right front head bolt hole is the only wet hole isn't it? (it doesn't hit the water pump impellers, btw)

Several bolt-on parts should be ready to be put on permanently.

Got the 3G alternator today, it fits right into my bracket, the only modification I need to do is switch the pulley out to a twin v-belt and I have one on order, I think I have the bolts for the alternator because the 200 had one bolted to it and it is the '72 motor so should have a 2G and I think the bolts match as long as the locking bolt is not metric on the new alternator.

Anyway, moving along will be firing it up soon (relatively speaking)

See Ya,
Mike
 
looks good ! The brass freeze plugs look sharp in there...
(y)
"...satin nickel is what I painted the timing cover and thermostat housing with..." I coated my alu w/clear (K2, that stuff U gotta punch the button on the bottom of the rattle can). Hope it lasts.

I did not know POR15 hada heat proof for motors, looks amazing in flat on my transfer case...
Like to put the heat proof on my alu muffler to make it last. Know how hi the heat it will take
(its plastic, right)?

yup, that's the bolt (#11) to put some smooo on. The opposite end is the 'grind down' if U want more oil flow (#13)...
 
chad":12er0mew said:
I did not know POR15 hada heat proof for motors, looks amazing in flat on my transfer case...
Like to put the heat proof on my alu muffler to make it last. Know how hi the heat it will take
(its plastic, right)?

It is good up to 350 degrees, it is a high solids enamel not plastic, that is why it gets so hard. Like all POR stuff it is not cheap, but the kit came with a quart of paint and used hardly any so a pint would be enough. Instructions say dries in a day but not fully cured and not to run the engine for 4 days to let it fully cure, I think I am safe there :p

I used a razor blade to clean off a few spots on gasket faces and it was pretty hard to remove, of course it is important to have everything fully de-greased and I used the metal prep to etch the block first.

chad":12er0mew said:
"...satin nickel is what I painted the timing cover and thermostat housing with..." I coated my alu w/clear (K2, that stuff U gotta punch the button on the bottom of the rattle can). Hope it lasts.

I cleaned them up but never could get them as bright as I wanted so I painted them with the satin nickel (Rustoleum I think) I figure if they get skinned up there is still clean aluminum underneath so the scratches wouldn't show too bad, I had the valve cover painted that color as well but then did a coat of black bedliner over it.

See Ya,
Mike
 
Thnx
I will look it up, sure not for the muffs tho.
I remember the Abarth equp hada black crinkle paint. They lasted a good long time.

"...enamel..."
that's what I mean by plastic (polyeth. polymer, pvc, polyprop, polymeth, polycarb, ad nasuam - and it is - we injest abt a credicard amount of it life time). Good to pour inta the oceans, etc. I use it, "Raptor" is low crum count 'bed liner', spray it where ever I can - wheel wells, top/bottom of floor pans, roll bars, bumpers (poorman's powdercoat)...

Some guy sprayed it on my 1/2 cab top for finish coat, now I gotta figure how to get it off...
 
Cam and timing set all installed, took me a little bit to figure out how to use the degree wheel, I guess mostly to confirm the engine is in time and the cam is ground correctly.

I got the timing cover installed and the harmonic balancer, water pump, and fuel block-off, I did forget to pull my dummy lifter out but think I can remember to get it, if not I will catch on when I try to put the new ones in :roll:

I should be able to get the bottom of the motor buttoned up next.

What are you guys running for thermostat temperature ranges? I need to get one.

And finally, I know I asked about spark plugs, what is a good plug wire, I know I can get Motorcraft stock '74 wires from Rockauto.

See Ya,
Mike
 
pmuller9":26h5zpi9 said:
Where did the intake lobe center end up?

Well I didn't write anything down, I guess maybe I should do that :roll: but the numbers matched the card which is what I was looking at, I guess my lack of experience shows with having never done this before.

See Ya,
Mike
 
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