Quest for 14 second ets

Gene,
Thanks for the report back we were all waiting in suspense.
I looked up your weather -
If its any help, if you had run out here at Sacramento or Sonoma even at 70F, you'd have run
14.96 at 90.0 instead of
15.09 at 89.2
per the Gonkulator.
We are about as close to sea level as you can get so that helps.
Can't do much about your altitude though, but your et does correct to 14s as-is right now! :D
 
WerbyFord":1mp6l6cj said:
Can't do much about your altitude though, but your et does correct to 14s as-is right now! :D
Ha ha ha...so at least my car runs 14's somewhere on the planet!! :rolflmao:
 
Oooooooooohhh that sucks. :( So close. Sorry man. On the plus side, your car is probably good looking enough to get you laid at any car show. Seriously, gorgeous Maverick Gene. Better luck next time. BTW, I am thinking bad thoughts about a small turbo under the hood of that Grabber right now.


Gene Fiore":1ucvdu65 said:
WerbyFord":1ucvdu65 said:
Can't do much about your altitude though, but your et does correct to 14s as-is right now! :D
Ha ha ha...so at least my car runs 14's somewhere on the planet!! :rolflmao:

Now THAT is funny. 8) Talk about the glass being half full.
 
Hey Gene,
This weekend I pulled the heater assy out of my 76, and changed the heater core and reinstalled it. If you plan to drag race only, there is 20 or so pounds of unnecessary weight. Just patch the air vent hole under the dash on the passenger side of the cowl.
Also, before you go out for you 14 second attempt, who am I kidding, you'll hit 14's probably mid 14's, sorry I got carried away. Make sure your C4 bands are adjusted properly, to eliminate any losses from slippage.
Good luck,
Ken
 
Thanks Ken...but this is still a street car so I will not be pulling the heater core out. I plan on changing out the alt pulley for a larger one and maybe take the back seat out before the next try.
 
Did you put the battery in the trunk?
Don't you live in Arizona? Everyone knows Arizona never get's cold! :rolflmao:
Take care,
Ken
 
Gene, if you take the back seat out. That area still has to sealed off as I recall. I;d talk to Rich about that situation on what is needed by the rules
 
Crosley":2bamjrn8 said:
Gene, if you take the back seat out. That area still has to sealed off as I recall. I;d talk to Rich about that situation on what is needed by the rules
Yeah, I was thinking that I need to check with Rich. Might have to get some tin to seal that area off.
 
Keep in mind if you are going for weight loss alone to lose the last 10th, it will have to be somewhere in the neighborhood of 100 pounds to hit 14's. Last time I removed a back seat it was from my Fairlane and it seems like the whole thing went less than 25 lbs. It was surprisingly light. If you are going to nickle and dime the last hundred pound make sure the tank is near empty. 8) 10 gallons of fuel = 60 pounds.
 
First Fox":3w2t7m6b said:
Keep in mind if you are going for weight loss alone to lose the last 10th, it will have to be somewhere in the neighborhood of 100 pounds to hit 14's. Last time I removed a back seat it was from my Fairlane and it seems like the whole thing went less than 25 lbs. It was surprisingly light. If you are going to nickle and dime the last hundred pound make sure the tank is near empty. 8) 10 gallons of fuel = 60 pounds.
Right...I believe the rule of thumb is for every 100 lbs you take out you can pick up .10 second in et. I know the back seat doesn't weigh near that but, hey, when you are scratching for hundredths of a second it all counts!
 
I think you'll reach the 13sec's if you head down hill... :D

you could take the rear and passenger seats out... I've even heard the trunk lid... but I wouldn't. maybe some fiberglass parts?

you could try running hotter, on my dyno runs, the engine responded well to LOTS of heat. no cool-down periods. or less time cooling down.
 
This may sound abusurd, but it is worth a try - in terms of reducing your car's Cd.

Try running a grill block; something (even cardboard or coroplast) to block your grill (or a portion thereof) so as to cause the air to flow around your car - rather than allowing your grill opening to act as a big air brake.

If it was something temporary (cardboard or water pipe split tube foam insulation) , it could be removed to do A-B-A-B testing.

With some temp data, you could determine the minimum grill opening required to keep your car cool enough, yet minimize Cd.

Back on the street, the grill block could be removed.
 
Soldmy66":2wktpslr said:
This may sound abusurd, but it is worth a try - in terms of reducing your car's Cd.

Try running a grill block; something (even cardboard or coroplast) to block your grill (or a portion thereof) so as to cause the air to flow around your car - rather than allowing your grill opening to act as a big air brake.

If it was something temporary (cardboard or water pipe split tube foam insulation) , it could be removed to do A-B-A-B testing.

With some temp data, you could determine the minimum grill opening required to keep your car cool enough, yet minimize Cd.

Back on the street, the grill block could be removed.

BTW - all of this would cost $0; except for some cardboard/coroplast and a few zip ties (unless/until you found out that it worked and wanted to make something more permanent).
 
UPDATE: I have isolated the trunk from the passenger compartment with .050 aluminum sheet so I will be legal to run without the back seat which will save about 40lbs. I could have gone thinner ( I think requirements for aluminum is .036 but hey it was free). I have also just installed a 5 inch alternator pulley. It's not much but just might make enough difference to get me there. Temps are also about 20 degrees cooler now than when I last ran back in November. I plan to go to the track this Saturday and see what it will run.
 
I MADE IT!!! Went to a test n tune this morning with temps in the low 40's...which helped alot I'm sure. Best run of the day was a 14.92 at 89.61 mph. WOO HOO!! :beer:
 
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