setting float level with turbo...?

[hasa68mustang]

I am tihnking my hesitation with the turbo is related to my fuel bowl level. it basically does the same thing as when I was n/a when it was too low. the simple solution set it up/down right? well when I pulled the plug gas blows out everywwhere , so I ended up setting it with the bonnet disconnected, but still not better. I kinda left it alone and have always had the same problem but never really thought about it. I did however buy a clear sight plug and either it appears to be empty. or maybe its completley full.... can someone offer help as to what to do? Also Matt (66sprint6) is having the same problem setting the float with gas blowing out... so Im not crazy... lol

 

[Anonymous]

do you have a box around the whole carb? If not I can imagine the float bowls getting pressurized through the bowl vents and pushing all the fuel out (or not letting it in.)

 

[hasa68mustang]

no it has a bonnet. I have a clear fuel bowl sight plug and I cant see anything on it even with the bonnet off, I guess Im gonna try setting it up. My dad was trying to help me and he said he forgot which way he was turning it (counterclockwise raises the float) so I dont know which way he turned it. I took it out for another drive. it definately is fuel related if you stay on it for awhile then let off it takes a bit to recover. I really need a wideband. I am almost posistive its running rich everytime I pull the plugs their black. I have yet to try the go for a WOT run and shut it off, then pull the plugs. I have tried tihnking about where I coudl do that but it would be hard because I live in a neighbrhood and even now ppl hate me, and I only get on it to about 30 and let off. ummmm I also read that your supposed to drill out the power valve blow out ball thing? Im gonna look it up, as I never did that.

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

T-bone,

the power valve check valve is only for when your manifold pressure is greater then atmosphere (IE carb backfire) since the carb is a restriction you will ALWAYS have lower manifold pressure than above the carb. So in otherwords no need to drill it.


what jets are you running? I have some 62's or 63's in right now and I thin kirk is running like a 61 or 60 in his bronco and it is still rich.

I am not saying it isn't a float issue but I would try to get it solved first before I started messing with other things. I have been thinking of putting some wire in my PV holes to reduce the fuel flow under boost to see if I can make it less doggy. I know on my car when you get on it until the boost builds up it feels sluggish (PV dumping too much fuel?)

 

[hasa68mustang]

it definately has a bog. at a certain rpm (my tach isnt hooked up) not too far off idle (I would say 1500 rpms) and it bogs a bit then the rpms go up. I also found out that 2 of my vacuum lines ended up next to the turbo manifold and they bubbled up and had holes so I pulled them and replaced one and was pulling the line off the pump reference and the whoel tihng broke off =( so I have to re-epoxy the nipple thingy back on and see waht the vacuum goes back up to (I drove it last and it was showing all of 2 or 3 vacuum and I knew something wasnt right... ) hmmm as for jets Im runnning what came with the carb. I was orignally planning on figureing out the problem tonight BUT I had to visit my girlfriend and ate dinner and had to run an errand for a friend and the next thing I knwo its dark... I am determined to get it going, and going good.

 

[66Sprint6]

Yeah, mines boggin too, Ive got 66jets in it if I remeber right. I need to learn how to tune the carb better, the car runs awesome most of the time, lol, I know its got aLOT more in her! She bogs, she jerks while cruisin when vac is around 20 and I have a few leaks here and there...its an on-going process workin the bugs out. Any good tips and tricks out there?
Matt

 

[kirkallen143]

T-bone,

the power valve check valve is only for when your manifold pressure is greater then atmosphere (IE carb backfire) since the carb is a restriction you will ALWAYS have lower manifold pressure than above the carb. So in otherwords no need to drill it.


what jets are you running? I have some 62's or 63's in right now and I thin kirk is running like a 61 or 60 in his bronco and it is still rich.

I am not saying it isn't a float issue but I would try to get it solved first before I started messing with other things. I have been thinking of putting some wire in my PV holes to reduce the fuel flow under boost to see if I can make it less doggy. I know on my car when you get on it until the boost builds up it feels sluggish (PV dumping too much fuel?)

They are the #60'sI think the 66's in Tommy's are fine for now (his 500cfm), let's get that float set right (go to www.holley.com if unsure, only want a trickle of fuel coming out of that site plug when car is running and the plug is pulled).
REMEMBER: turning the hex nut clock-wise raises the float (more fuel in bowl) and counter-clock-wise lowers the float (less fuel in bowl), AND, you check the level with the engine running, and only adjust with the engine off and site plug installed.

 

[hasa68mustang]

well then I was thinking backwards... =/ ummm but ya I printed out the holley instructions and used them the first time... and maybe I had it backwards when I did it... I work today so nothing will happen but I will get around to it sometime... I want to get the car running right soooo bad.... and I dont think the fact that I had 2 or 3 vacuum lines with holes in them helped...

 

[Anonymous]

You may need to adjust the idle screw to set the throttle butterflies in the correct position. In my Holley book it says that the relationship between the butterflies and the idle transfer slot is important, in that too little or too much of the idle slots exposed, and you will get an off idle bog.
The 600 DP on my 250 had a really bad off idle bog after I played with it cos a mate was complaining that my car was 2 rich.
Problem: Idle screw opened too far. Trying to run too rich an idle mixture.
Solution: Back off Idle screw, Richen mixture up Slightly.

Before I'd have to warm it up for ages before it would idle to any degree. Cold 600rpm. Hot 1500rpm.

Now, Warm up for 30sec-1m, Cold 700rpm, Hot 900rpm.
Flat spot is all but gone... Unless I try to crack the secondarys below 2500-3000...
Barely have to touch the throttle to cruise at 100-110kph (60-70mph).

Are you still running a STD type fuel pump?
On my motor if you kept the boot into it, the mechanical fuel pump couldnt keep up. And the carby would suck the bowls dry. Now running a holley red. And my motors only a mild crossflow with a 4bbl.

 

[hasa68mustang]

I have never actaully got on it and held on it to see about the fuel pump. The best Ive done was to about 70mph which was 10 seconds at the drag strip. after I mess with the float ill look into the idle screw. thanks for the info

 

[Anonymous]

I also found out that 2 of my vacuum lines ended up next to the turbo manifold and they bubbled up and had holes so I pulled them and replaced one and was pulling the line off the pump reference and the whoel tihng broke off =( so I have to re-epoxy the nipple thingy back on and see waht the vacuum goes back up to

The fuel pump reference line MUST NOT SEE VACUUM!!!
only pressure when under boost, vacuum will make it stop pumping fuel.

Make sure your pump reference line is run to the bonnet.


If that helps, then great. If you continue to have carb problems, then I would like you to consider getting rid of the 500. I DON'T CARE what anyone says, the 500 carb is too big for a 200, period......and no one will ever get me to change my mind, because I know for a fact it is just too big and I can't stand to see other people try to use them.
I know all about mustang geezer and mustangaroo trying them and what not, and if they can get their's to half-ways run fine then good for them, but a smaller carb will be easier to keep in tune and will ALWAYS have better driveability.

Having said that....now those guys are NA, you are turbo.... (clears throat)

A SMALLER THAN NORMAL CARB IS ALWAYS EASIER TO TUNE FOR BLOW THROUGH! A carb that is too big will make you tear your hair out. Boost does weird things to carbs, and any problems you had before boost will be amplified/magnified when "under pressure". A small carb is very forgiving to tune under boost.....with a big carb, you better have your game on or you will be paddling upstream for a very long time.

I can name 5 guys (without even straining my brain) running into the 9's at over 130 mph in the quarter mile, running TWICE as many cubic inches as you and doing it with a Holley 600. You need half of that.

 

[hasa68mustang]

oopsies... my bad on the caling them "vacuum" lines... they are infact routed from the bonnet. I have considered buying a 350 to mess with but havent really gotten far into my searches. but then again Matt (66sprint6) said our cars are going to be eleventy billion times faster than everyone elses! and Ive known him for a couple of years... so he MUST know what hes talking about. I also got my nipple sorta deal epoxied back on so I can get back to trying to get it to run right. Tommy

 

[Anonymous]

but then again Matt (66sprint6) said our cars are going to be eleventy billion times faster than everyone elses!

Fantasy = Believing what isn't true

 

[66Sprint6]

Fantasy = Believing what isn't true

BLAH BLAH BLAH, someone buy me a smaller carb and Ill run it. Mine runs fine so Ill just have to deal with the fact that is "sucks". Im sure your right about the carb bein too big and hard ot keep tuned, but Im runnin the 500 cause Ive got the 500 and it seems to be ok. If what you say is true, Ide really like to see how it runs with a 350 cause it already rocks!!!
Matt

 

[Anonymous]

If what you say is true, I'd really like to see how it runs with a 350 cause it already rocks!!!

The result would be your off idle throttle response would increase a lot, and also part throttle to full throttle transition would give an increase in torque.

500 = quote"66Sprint6" - - - it already rocks!!!

350 = WOW, it "rocked" before but NOW it ROCKS!!

 

[hasa68mustang]

psshh your just jealous our carbs like eleventy billion times bigger than yours and everyone knows bigger is better! Ill try to get a 350 and see what kind of difference it makes... Dunno how soon it would be but ill try. As for my comment you cant take me seriously, I dont know how well you take to that kind of humor, alot dont seem to like me because of my sarcasticness... and I really appreciate all the help youve given me before and continue to be grateful for it...

 

[Anonymous]

No prob, A little humor does a bit good for all....

I have a fully prepped Motorcraft "1.08" 2 bbl that was going on the next engine, it should be able to get me easy mid 12's on a good launch. Maybe you could try it.

With 1.08 venturis, throttle response should be snappy as all get out.

 

[hasa68mustang]

I still never set the float but I did find out that the vacuum lines arent the only source of low vacuum. I did that and now it idles at around 7... which is better than 4... but when I pull the pcv thingy out it idles smoother and higher and suggestions as to why? I did mess around a bit with it and got it idling/running a bit better... (with the idle adjust screws) I WILL get it runnning better (yes linc I know... the 350 would make it run best... blah blah blah blah blah... )

 

[Anonymous]

... but when I pull the pcv thingy out it idles smoother and higher and suggestions as to why?

idle mixture is too rich...screws out too far or float to high, or sticky inlet needle

 

[hasa68mustang]

Ill have to look into those things tomorrow. I took the carb off to see about the vacuum thingys on the bottom of it and decided I Would mill the choke horn off... so Im about halfway done with that and umm figured out where the damn airleak was that I couldnt get rid of... I took the choke flapper valve thing off and I guess I never took the arm that came up through the carb flat piece and theres a hole there... after all this time trying to get the thing to seal and wondered why it never would it turns out to be something rediculousy simple.. so I took it out and am gonna epoxy it shut and ummm work on the float tomorrow. it is infact counter clockwise to raise it...