She's comming out.....................

[strat1960s]

Well, after trying many different things, I have decided the only way to get rid of the oil consumption/smoking condition is to drain all the oil out of the car and drive it that way (just kidding) or pull the motor out and go at it again. I have found a few shops that will pull and re-install the motor in addition to the lower end rebuild. Now, all I have to do is figure out which one has the best service, warranty and price. When I have them build it for me, I'm going to tell them that I am looking for a few things.
1. Durability
2. Dependability
3. Power

I'll keep you all posted.

Ted

 

[AzCoupe]

Ted,

Give this guy a call. He's own Specialty Machine in Phoenix. One man shop but has all the equipment to do anything but crank grinding. He's working on Crosley's motor (and OZ head) right now, and has another inline project coming up. Plus he is going to do some short block work for me (actually for a forum member / FSPP customer). Robbin at 602-841-9690

Sorry to hear you have to pull it out. Maybe someday you'll get to enjoy driving it.

 

[strat1960s]

Mike,

The shop I am leaning towards is 5 Star engine exchange. They said they could take care of my motor and have me back on the road in 2 to 3 days. Because this is my daily driver, I am in a bit of a time crunch. I'll keep everyone posted.

Ted

 

[strat1960s]

Good news folks. It doesn't sound like it's going to be anything too major. I spoke to 5 Star engines on Friday and they told me that my cylinder walls were washed/glazed and a couple of my rings never seated. They are going to plasti-gauge my main bearings and if all is well take care of the cylinders and rings and button her back up. They told me that everythings looked to be ok and that I had a pretty impressive set up. They really liked Mike's roller rockers. So if all is well, I should only be looking at $400 to $700 instead of the $1400 to $1600. Wheeeww, I feel a little better now. I sure do miss seeing frankenstang in my garage, even if she's not running the way I want. I want my car back............

Ted

 

[strat1960s]

Well, Saturday I had to see what kind of shape my engine was in so I drove by 5 Star engines. I spent almost 40 minutes talking with the owner, a former I6 Falcon drag man himself. From the sounds of it he really loves the ole' I6's. When I finally got around to looking over my motor they showed me my cylinders and how "washed" they were. Then they showed me my pistons and how carboned they were from the excess oil entering the cylinders. They also showed me on the sides of the pistons where the oil was getting past the rings and burning on to the pistons.
All in all, they said this motor was in great shape for being driven almost a year. They really impressed me when they gave credit to the original machine shop (their competition) for the great machine work they had done. So I am looking at some hone work, a new set of rings, some clean and polish work on the pistons and a new gasket set. Like I said in the previous post, I don't think it's going to cost nearly as much as I had originally thought.
These guys were really impressed with the OZ head and the roller rockers. I told them all about the FSP site and Mike's parts. Ed, the owner of the shop sounded really interested in the site. Mike, I'll keep trying to drum up some bussiness for ya.
I should be able to pick the car up late Monday or early Tuesday.

Ted

 

[addo]

They said they could take care of my motor and have me back on the road in 2 to 3 days.

The "best laid plans", eh? They only said could...

The fact that it's bore washed is a flag to me. I believe that problems like you've had are relatively common with the rebuilds - and possibly why some rebuilt motors don't really make the distance in the way originally expected. How many time have people posted here, saying they've got the new motor together, but it "won't start"? Cranking and cranking, fuel puddling in the bores - can't be helpful to engine life.

It's a darned good reason to prepare for initial startup and break-in with "known working" parts. I have a "break in" points dizzy/coil with new bushes and stock timing for startups, and always urge pulling a carb off a running motor. A motor that ran reasonably the day the carb was pulled to start the new engine, not six months before.

That way, you're guaranteed fuel delivery, guaranteed spark and if the motor has only had two prior crank revolutions from setting the valve lash, wear risk is minimal. Your motor is in good hands by the sound of it; I was wondering how the Plastigage and other work fitted into a three-day T/A.

One request, Ted: Can you pick their brains on what they feel is ideal contemporary break-in procedure for modern rings and wall finishes? Just curious to collect another industry opinion.

Cheers, Adam.

 

[strat1960s]

Adam,

The 2 to 3 days was for them to pull my motor out and put an already built motor back in. But doing it that way, I had no say in the cam and so forth. I will have the car back by Tuesday as long as everything goes well. I know the machine shop the rebuilt the motor for me told me to run the motor at about 2500 RPM for about 20 minutes.
The problem that I had trying to break the motor in was my own doing. I was trying to do too many things at once. Breaking in a new cam, stabbing a new dizzy with the ignitor II, timing the motor and trying to figure out a new Weber 38 DGAS carb. I had too much going on at the same time. The only way I could keep the car running long enough to break in the cam was to have it almost floored. So, that is what probably set things in motion. One benefit to going to 5 Star is that they are going to take care of all of that for me. When I get to the shop, I'm going to hop in and fire her up and if all is well, drive off into the sunset.
I'll let you know what, if anything, needs to be done to break the rings in.

Ted