Hello All,
I'm a bit embarrassed that it's been 7 months since the last post. Part of the delay was the need to build the workshop where the engine build is taking place and part was just too many other projects taking priority. But things have stabilized and I'm back to slowly putting the engine together and learning lessons along the way.
Lesson #1: For slow builders like me, choose an assembly lube with some stickiness to it. I ordered Driven GP-1 assembly gel after watching this video:
Lesson #2: If something is binding, don't force it! I discovered this as I was installing the pistons in the block and rotating the crankshaft after every installation. First two pistons went in smooth and the assembly rotated easily. Hit the third one and it took way too much force to rotate it about 45 degrees. Stopped and assessed the situation. I removed the con-rod cap from the last piston, spun it around 180 degrees and retorqued it. Smooth and easy rotation after that. I didn't realize that there was a right way and a wrong way to install the caps. For reference, the internet figures it should take about 30 ft-lbs to rotate the crank and pistons with no cylinder head installed.
Lesson #3: Measure everything, because sometimes dimensions aren't what you planned. After installing the pistons, I noticed that they were protruding above the deck by about 0.010". This was surprising since my calculations had shown that they should be 0.050" down the bore. I measured an uninstalled piston assembly and compared it to the original assembly and sure enough, the new assembly is 0.16" longer than the old one and not the 0.10" longer that I thought it would be. The planned difference was based on the '86 2.5L (153ci) connecting rods and Silvo-Lite UEM-1120 pistons which together were supposed to be only 0.1" longer. So, my static compression ratio is now estimated at about 10 and not the 9 that I planned. Looks like I'll be running a little higher grade gasoline.
Lesson #4: Check to see that your camshaft comes with the cam gear pin installed. If not, just order a new one since they cost a couple of bucks and its easier than trying to yank the old one out of the old cam.
Lesson #5: Check that your camshaft spins freely before you install the crankshaft and all the pistons. This is where the build stands right now. I installed the cam gear pin, put the gear on and then attempted to spin the cam in order to line up the timing mark with the crank gear before putting on the timing chain. Aaaannndd it won't budge a millimeter, even with a long breaker bar torquing on the nut.
From what I understand, the seized cam could be a bad bearing, too much lube in the end bearing or some debris caught somewhere. I remember the cam went in easy through the first three bearings, but I did have to tap it into place with a wood block and hammer when I got to the last one. Looks like I'll be taking it out and seeing if anything looks obvious. Of course, any experienced thoughts about what could be going on are welcome.
-Mike