trying to clear the cobwebs and make her reliable

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
Hello,

I have 1965 mustang 200 Auto, with no pcv, completely stock. Car has sat for about 15 years. I have drained all fluids and replaced. She is running and driving and stopping. New fuel pump and new gas tank. She runs fine at startup. She runs fine for the first 10 miles or so. After about 10 miles she starts to sputter and will stall if I do not nurse the gas pedal. This happens while stopped and less while moving. The car also seems to be allergic to hills. Going uphill is an adventure, I literaly need to pump the gas pedal continously to get uphill, once I get over the hill and on level ground she is fine, at least for about the first 10 miles or so. I pulled the fuel line at the carb and there is a little check valve where I thought a fuel filter would be, I am used to Chevy inlines. Is this valve needed also what is its part name. Also new plugs points wires cap etc. any thoughts
 
Might check your carb.. it might be gumbed up and not letting enough fuel in the bowl. Thats what it sounds like to me.... the first 10 mile or so the choke may be helping it pull in fuel...
Tim
 
Does it have a Load O dizzy? There may be a mismatch in the carb and dizzy therefore the timing is messed up? Snap a picture of both if you cant find numbers or tags and im sure the guys can tell you what you got.

After 15 years I would replace the brake hoses to be safe, especially since thats got a single MC, you loose one hose you are screwed.
 
Think about debris in the gas tank too. It may be gumming up the intake. If it sat for that long, the gas dried out. When you accelerate or go uphill it could be stirring up the material. Put in a clear, inline fuel filter to see if everything is okay. Also do that stuff they are talking about. You might have some clogging/residue in the carb internals as well that need to be cleaned out.

Never mind about the junk in the tank. I just re-read the post more carefully. You still might have contamination in the lines. Blow them out and put in the clear filter. Then do that other stuff. Also, make sure the choke is pulling off completely and not drifting shut under the increased load. Where you live, you could pin the choke open completly and avoid the whole problem.
 
I had that 10-mile symptom - check to make sure your distributor is bolted down tight ... the bolt that you loosen to adjust timing.
 
Gene, congrats on getting another old mustang back on the road. The first thing you should do is order a copy of the "The Ford Falcon Performance Handbook"(our bible). Just click on the "Ford Six Shop" link.
I think a good tune-up is in order. Plugs, plug wires, points, condensor, cap, and rotor, maybe a new coil. Then check the engines timing. Or spend some of this moneys for an electronic ignition upgrade. I did a Pertronix Coil, Wires, and Electronic ignition. I'm very pleased with it. Once you know the igintion system is in tip top shape. The carb is next. After setting around 15 years its time for a rebuild. Before you do that though make sure the carb is tightened down and has not come loose. Also check for vacuum leaks. I'd do a compression test to see the current state of your engine. Good luck and welcome. Lowell
 
how are your fuel lines? sounds like a partially blocked line or fuel filter. the fuel filter on the fords is mounted to the carb on some models

I would check the carb bowl for debris, then the filter, then the lines. it is starving for fuel somewhere. you have to pump the pedal since the accel pump is off the bottom of the bowl so when the level gets too low for the mains you pump to keep it going.

my new tank was doing this to me (self fabbed) some shavings from cutting the filler neck hole was caught up in a corner of fuel line. would run at 55mph fine but if you took it up to 60 or a hill it would starve out after 15 seconds or so of WOT (this was on the turbo motor so it was using a little bit more fuel than a stock motor)
 
Ok here is how it has gone so far.

readjusted the choke to stay open. Problem was imediate as oppose to about 10 miles.

pulled the check valve/regulator out on the fuel line leading into carb. Big mistake gas poured up out of the carb. Put it back, gas back to normal.

took top of carb off. everything looked fine no gunk that i could see. put top back on.

got to thinking that i shipped this car from Maryland, and I am in sunny south Florida. I am at or below sea level here. I adjusted the timing, idle, and fuel mixture. Wow motor seems to have woken up. then wamo my alt belt broke. Could not take her for a test drive.

Went ahead and replaced the thermostat with one I had in my garage. Good thing because I had forgotten we removed it up north.

Got me a beer and a smoke and figure I am off tomorrow and we replace the belt and take her out for a test drive.

The fuel pump is also the fuel filter on these cars correct
 
Replaced belts.

I have been driving her to work all week. Every day she seems to run a little better.

Now I am noticing that in order for her to shift (auto) I have to let off the gas pedal. Not much liking that. any suggestions.

It is an adventure driving this beast. I can't seem to stop at a traffic light with out some one asking 10,000 questions lol.

I have had several ppl stop and take pics with their camara phones.

I have had several haters rage on how dare I cut up a Mustang. jeessh
 
no_its_a_secret":2pxdv6du said:
Now I am noticing that in order for her to shift (auto) I have to let off the gas pedal. Not much liking that. any suggestions.

It is an adventure driving this beast. I can't seem to stop at a traffic light with out some one asking 10,000 questions lol.

I have had several haters rage on how dare I cut up a Mustang. jeessh

The shifting problem sounds like you have a vacum leak in the hose or line going to the vacum modulater on the trans. I'd check it.
 
no_its_a_secret":36rsg8ag said:
...
I have been driving her to work all week. Every day she seems to run a little better....

Probably the new gasoline is slowly flushing the varnish out of the fuel line and carb passageways. I would run good grade premium such as Chevron brand for a while, also some fuel injector cleaner won't hurt a thing.
Joe
 
I dont want to scare you but mine did the same thing when I first got it and it turned out to be it didnt have anything left of the intermediate (2nd gear) band so there was no 2nd. I drove it around 1000 miles that way all I did was ease up on the gas a bit and it would shift fine (turns out into 3rd). I even had a transmission tech drive it and he didnt know for sure what was wrong but didnt think it was slipping so he told me to keep driving it till it got worse. I swore that I could feel all 3 gears and so did the transmission guy but when we got it apart there was no way there was any 2nd gear. When I droped the pan the band struts were laying in it. There is pictures in the drivetrain section if you do a search for C4.
 
Back
Top