Upgrading 1966 Mustang w/ inline 6 to a holley 1946

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I know their are allot carb questions out there, but I really need the help.
I notice on a website (http://www.albertpenello.com/mustang) where the
owner upgraded to a 1946 Holley with no adapters. It appeared his 66' Mustang with an inline 6, was having the same richness problems I am. I >need to know what specific Model Holley 1946 can be used. Thanks for the help!
 
Just go to the parts store and tell them you have a 66 mustang and they will have either a holley 1946 or an autolite 1100. Although parts store rebuilds are not generally put together right they usually are missing parts or jammed together and its a bear to get them to run right. If you wanna do it right just rebuild again yourself once you buy it.A better solution would be a 2bbl upgrade especially if you want to do future upgrades. A weber 32/36 is a good carb once jetted correctly and will give a nice boost in power and driveability over the stock 1bbl. Just use the adapter from stovebolt to make it fit the manifold. Probably the best choices for a 2bbl would an autolite 2100 or holley 2300 or a weber 38 all are easy to tune run great on the six give great power and allow room for future upgrades.
 
If you're set on the '46 I suggest asking for 1978 Fairmont/Zephyr because at that time there were fewer emissions stuff on them. I got a couple from the scrapyard and rebuilt them, they're pretty simple. You still need a spacer to orient the carb I think, and you have a cable throttle?
 
Howdy 66Project:

And, welcome to The Forum.

First, know the the Holley 1946 is the last one barrel used on the FoMoCo 200s. It is very encumbered with emmissions feed back systems that, when working as designed on '79 to '82 engines, works pretty well. Eliminating the unnecessary stuff and getting to the tuning parts is more then a little complicated. Basically, it gives a ported vacuum signal to the stock OEM Dura Spark II ignition system.

Your stock '66 used a Load-O-Matic distributor that requires a carb with a Spark Control Valve (SCV) that sends a specific load signal to the distributor. Your stock distributor advance mechanism will not work as disigned with a 1946.

The 1946 will require a change or adaptation to get it hooked to your throttle linkage. The vehicles that used the 1946 use a cable system. Same is true for air cleaners and fuel lines.

Finally, the 1946 is not rated with as much CFM as your stock Autolite 1100- 180 cfm to 185.

The pluses of the 1946 are that it is quite durable and low maintainance, it has a better idle and transition circuitry. It has a much better air cleaner system, with Climatic Control- which duct hot engine air to the carb when cold and cool outside air when the engine is hot. Another plus is that Alberto has been down this road and you have him and his expeerience as an aide.

On the richness issues of your stock carb, have you properly set the choke? Is it working? are there any leaks? How long since the last rebuild? Is the choke set too high? Idle speed? are your spark plugs too cold?

In my experiences the Autolite 1100 is one of the best one barrels on the market. It is simple, easy to work on and rebuild. The downside is that they are susceptable to dirt and carbon contamination because of the flow through hot air choke system. the accelerator pump system is weak and may require more frequent rebuild.

IF the only thing that you are chasing is a richness problem, I'd be inclined to suggest that you attempt to rebuild what you have and learn to tune it to it's potential.

Also consider an upgrade to your stock ignition system with a Petronix Ignitor.

If you want more performance, that's another story.

Again, Welcome and come back with some feedback so we know if we're giving you the info you want and need.

Adios, David
 
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