WhichBlock should i use for a performance build 1966 or 1978
- Thread starter JMB
- Start date
Bayrunner,
Thanks for the reply. The 78 block looks fresher ,like its been redone before. It also looks like it has been newly painted and the Cylinder Head that is on it is a 1973.
The 1966 engine that is on the car is still in original condition and has never been open or redone before. Both engines are in running condition.
I am also planning to put a T5 Transmission from Modern Drivelines but this should not be an issue because they have adapters for both types of bellhousings. I don't have a bellhousing on the 78 but i think the 66 bell will bolt on the 78 block(not shure , i could be wrong).
My question is:
Knowing this , which block should i use for the high performance build?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the reply. The 78 block looks fresher ,like its been redone before. It also looks like it has been newly painted and the Cylinder Head that is on it is a 1973.
The 1966 engine that is on the car is still in original condition and has never been open or redone before. Both engines are in running condition.
I am also planning to put a T5 Transmission from Modern Drivelines but this should not be an issue because they have adapters for both types of bellhousings. I don't have a bellhousing on the 78 but i think the 66 bell will bolt on the 78 block(not shure , i could be wrong).
My question is:
Knowing this , which block should i use for the high performance build?
Thanks in advance.
Howdy Back:
Use the block that requires the least amount of boring to achieve a true cylinder wall. Also check for crack near the head bolt holes. The year of these blocks will not matter. When it comes to building a performance block, with overboring, less is better. FoMoCo's thin wall casting process is good for less weight, but it doesn't leave alot of material to rebuild with. When the walls get too thin, cylinder wall flex and distortion becomes a problem with piston and ring seal.
The only way to determine which block is best is to disassemble and inspect to determine how much boring will be required to true the cylinders.
Adios, David
Use the block that requires the least amount of boring to achieve a true cylinder wall. Also check for crack near the head bolt holes. The year of these blocks will not matter. When it comes to building a performance block, with overboring, less is better. FoMoCo's thin wall casting process is good for less weight, but it doesn't leave alot of material to rebuild with. When the walls get too thin, cylinder wall flex and distortion becomes a problem with piston and ring seal.
The only way to determine which block is best is to disassemble and inspect to determine how much boring will be required to true the cylinders.
Adios, David
dieselmaster
Active member
its not the age of the metal u want to consider its how much each block was used, if the older block had only been run a short time i'd use that one and vice versa. In the big picture it still isn't a big loss either way, engines i'm working on are 50 60 years old, and there is no replacing the block.
Mustang_Geezer
Well-known member
JMB":386o69el said:
The 66 block will have forged rods the 78 block will not.
Yes they can be sleeved as mine had to be on a couple of bores awhile back. Yes it is worth the cost and no they are not available new anymore but I have seen a couple of NOS blocks show up in the original boxes on ebay in the past year.
Later,
Doug
Mustang_Geezer
Well-known member
JMB":z2y3ujm9 said:
Yes they are the same.
The only differance in the blocks (to my casual inspection) is the 66 block has the provisions for the draft tube and the 78 block doesnt.
Later,
Doug
Mustang_Geezer,
My question is :
I am planning to put a T5 trans from Modern Driveline.
The reason I asked if the bolt paterns on the blocks are the same is because (Modern Driveline) told me that the 66 200 inline 6 is a stand alone year and that they have a different bellhousing than any other years.
Is this true?
Will the bellhousing from a 67 - 78 bolt up to my 66 block? Thanks again.
My question is :
I am planning to put a T5 trans from Modern Driveline.
The reason I asked if the bolt paterns on the blocks are the same is because (Modern Driveline) told me that the 66 200 inline 6 is a stand alone year and that they have a different bellhousing than any other years.
Is this true?
Will the bellhousing from a 67 - 78 bolt up to my 66 block? Thanks again.
early ford fan
Well-known member
the 66 200 may? have a special bellhousing but the blocks are the same from 65 to 80.
JMB":2ln94tat said:
8) the 66 and earlier blocks use a smaller bell housing bolt pattern in so far as the upper two bolts are set lower. look at the back of your 78 block and you will see two bolt patterns. the 66 block does not have the upper two bolts. thats the bad news, now the good news. you can drill and tap the upper holes using the later block plate as a template, and that would give you the dual bolt pattern block.
in the end however it is a moot point for a T5 swap as there are adapter plates available for both the 2.77 to T5 swap and the 3.03 to T5 swap. and if you need a bell housing there are many of us that can sell you one.
Mustang_Geezer
Well-known member
JMB":22pnx44z said:
Not sure on the manual trans but the auto trans requires no drilling or any modification to fit the 66 C-4 automatic transmission to the 1978 block. It bolts on to the back of it and you drive away.
Later,
Doug
rbohm":2wrq1072 said:
Don't you mean the '65 and earlier are non-dual pattern...both my '66 blocks are dual pattern.
There is a '66 only bell if yours is/was a stock original 2.77 three speed it would have this bell with the peanut tranny:
http://www.phlegm.us/tech/drivetrain/66Bell.jpg
more info here
http://www.phlegm.us/tech/drivetrain/history.html
And actually there is an adapter plate mass produced for that one year only bell (C6OA-6394-C):
http://www.calponycars.com/prodDetail.php?prodId=371
If you have the C6 bell this adapter requires no mods...the C7 and later/larger bell (prior to the low mount starter) uses the sbf adapter, and requires a minor couple mods. Also, '66 was the start of the 9" flat wheel (more clutch options).
EDIT:
yep
Thanks again guys for the info.
Frankenstang,
Thanks for clarifying and for the detailed info of the blocks and the different bellhousing's.
I heard from Bruce at Modern Driveline that he is making a bellhousing made out of steel for the 66 and newer 200 inline 6 blocks to bolt up to the T5 without the need of an adapter and will have the ability to use a Clutch Cable or a Hydrolic Clutch System. Hope he will have it soon.
Is the material that was used to make the blocks better on the 78 over the 66 (since it is 12 years newer)?
Frankenstang,
Thanks for clarifying and for the detailed info of the blocks and the different bellhousing's.
I heard from Bruce at Modern Driveline that he is making a bellhousing made out of steel for the 66 and newer 200 inline 6 blocks to bolt up to the T5 without the need of an adapter and will have the ability to use a Clutch Cable or a Hydrolic Clutch System. Hope he will have it soon.
Is the material that was used to make the blocks better on the 78 over the 66 (since it is 12 years newer)?
JMB":y0rk2nqw said:
Hey JMB, that's a real interesting bit of info, thanks for passing it on. I'm guessing Bruce's 'steel' bh would have to be one of those lakewood type shatter proof bh's the racers use
...will be curious to see that come out. I keep hoping Mike/AZCoupe or someone will decide to recast the stock aluminum 'holy grail' '81 bh that's the right depth (no adapter) and cable ready for the 200...unfortunately it's extremely hard to come by second hand.Mustang_Geezer":y0rk2nqw said:
I'm not much help on diff's between the '66 vs '78, but given what Geezer said...personally I'm glad I ended up with another '66 instead of the '78 short block I was looking at. Based on what he, rbohm, and CZLN6 said it sounds like you should be good either way...forged rods does sound like a nice plus though.
Good luck!
