All Small Six Winter Project: Better breathing with a large log

[DON]

Just some info on my status.
My coupe has been sitting for a while, it was used a my sons daily driver his last two yrs in high school. He has changed to a pickup to haul dirt bikes. The original plan was to get this second engine, have him and a buddy who was getting into engine rebuilding, he now has a pretty nice shop, long story short, they got pretty aggressive in the rebuild which at the time, hay! I don’t have to drive it.
So they got the short block assembled but they picked a little more cam than I would have and setup a little more compression than I would have. I had my 67 conv that I needed to sell before I got into the I6, but I did get the engine finished to a point it’s not open to fla air. I did get my vert sold— big thanks to @funkaholik !! Now getting a few life things out of the way and then on the the I6 coup. I have to make a decision about it cause it needs paint and bodywork
Don’t want to hi Jack this thread, just let you know that is what I have, just not running yet. I have a Holley 2300 for it and will be using the DUI that is on it now. 2V mod DOD head, and a t5 is first on the list to get. Have some other mods done and some more to add

 

[awasson]

Just some info on my status.
My coupe has been sitting for a while, it was used a my sons daily driver his last two yrs in high school. He has changed to a pickup to haul dirt bikes. The original plan was to get this second engine, have him and a buddy who was getting into engine rebuilding, he now has a pretty nice shop, long story short, they got pretty aggressive in the rebuild which at the time, hay! I don’t have to drive it.
So they got the short block assembled but they picked a little more cam than I would have and setup a little more compression than I would have. I had my 67 conv that I needed to sell before I got into the I6, but I did get the engine finished to a point it’s not open to fla air. I did get my vert sold— big thanks to @funkaholik !! Now getting a few life things out of the way and then on the the I6 coup. I have to make a decision about it cause it needs paint and bodywork
Don’t want to hi Jack this thread, just let you know that is what I have, just not running yet. I have a Holley 2300 for it and will be using the DUI that is on it now. 2V mod DOD head, and a t5 is first on the list to get. Have some other mods done and some more to add

Happy to hear more about that once you get back into it so feel free to hijack any of my threads. I'm really curious about how that compression and camshaft work out. I think the Holley 2300 is the way to go and the DUI never seems to be a bad decision. As far as that cam and compression goes... I'm sure it'll be fine

 

[awasson]

How about these?
https://ebay.us/m/5eU0pW

Coming to my mailbox between Nov 15th - 20th

 

[Frank]

All this "dynamic compression" is mumbo jumbo,

I agree. Never paid it any mind until the 300 Ford, my first Ford after 35 years of GM/Mopar
However, in the case of the 300 using the calculator- as "static" as it is, therefore inaccurate- has proven to actually be accurate enough to be helpful in determining fuel grade.
"Dynamic" compression is just that- moving. It varies continually, different at every rpm, throttle position, atmospheric pressure, ambient temperature, etc. Heck, at idle gas engines have all but no compression at all.

 

[DON]

And from what I understand, compression is a variable that is used as a parameter when building an engine. The end result is an engine that performs without spark knock. Like many things—a balance

 

[awasson]

So now that I have my larger exhaust valves on the way...

For larger intake valves, I might as well get the 1.753" intake valves from a 77+ head. I'm looking at these: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5579196&cc=1127562&pt=5544&jsn=10805

 

[Frank]

The few Enginetech parts I got were surprisingly good quality. I broke the cam retainer plate. E'tech had a kit with the plate, inner ring, cam key and 'couple of other related small parts. Perfect match to stock. Also have an Enginetech cam, not yet installed. Looks good. Can't speak to valves. Too bad Melling is not listed.

Have those valves back cut, like the stock Melling valves, that's a pretty sharp cliff where the valve face machining stops.

 

[awasson]

The few Enginetech parts I got were surprisingly good quality. I broke the cam retainer plate. E'tech had a kit with the plate, inner ring, cam key and 'couple of other related small parts. Perfect match to stock. Also have an Enginetech cam, not yet installed. Looks good. Can't speak to valves. Too bad Melling is not listed.

Have those valves back cut, like the stock Melling valves, that's a pretty sharp cliff where the valve face machining stops.

Yes, absolutely. I'm definitely intending to have the intakes back cut. Next thing I need to figure out is the rockers. I'll certainly need adjustable rockers and the pushrods to go with them. I'd really like a set of adjustables from an earlier engine but I'll check with Rocker Arms Unlimited to see what they have. Yella Terra are still available too.

 

[DON]

Please take a before and after picture of the valve back cutting work

 

[drag-200stang]

Yes, absolutely. I'm definitely intending to have the intakes back cut. Next thing I need to figure out is the rockers. I'll certainly need adjustable rockers and the pushrods to go with them. I'd really like a set of adjustables from an earlier engine but I'll check with Rocker Arms Unlimited to see what they have. Yella Terra are still available too.

The problem with the stock adjustable rockers is that they do not play well with higher spring pressures that are correct for more cam, because of the steel on steel bearing surface, if they are rebuilt with bronze bushing they will live much longer.

 

[awasson]

The problem with the stock adjustable rockers is that they do not play well with higher spring pressures that are correct for more cam, because of the steel on steel bearing surface, if they are rebuilt with bronze bushing they will live much longer.

Thanks for that. I hadn’t considered that and yes, I will be running heavier springs. If I manage to find a set, I’ll be rebuilding them and the rocker shaft assembly too. Great tip. I’m curious as to what Rocker Arms Unlimited has available.

 

[clochard68]

I got the Rocker Arms Unlimited assembly, I had to rework half of the shaft bushings to make them turn freely, but they perform very well now. In my opinion the second best option to the YellaTerra regarding friction loss prevention. Advantage is that with the RAU you don't need oil through lifters like with the YellaTerra...

One thing I would recommend if you get some adjustable rocker arms: install the longest pushrods you can fit. That gives you the maximum lift possible. Here is a link that explains that a little more in depth: https://www.eatonbalancing.com/2007...-ratio-by-varying-the-length-of-the-pushrods/

 

[drag-200stang]

I prefer 3/8'' pushrods, more stable and weigh about the same as the stock solid rod skinny one if you go with a thinner wall. They say that when it comes to pushrods that stiff is more important than weight, but we do not need a thousand pound spring to control our valves. With stock rocker and iron head I have not seen a fitting issue, but always check. Higher ratio rockers may need minor clearancing of the pushrod hole because the rocker moves the pushrod toward the rocker to get the increased ratio. only remove what is needed, this is one place that does not need much clearance.
I do not recommend 3/8'' pushrods for the Aluminum head as there has been fitment issues at push rod hole.

 

[DON]

If I remember correctly, it was posted that rocker arm to valve/ valve spring was about 0.050.

 

[awasson]

Well, my 1.75" intakes arrive on Thursday from Rock Auto and I just got a notification that the 144 intakes that I'll fit for my exhaust valves arrived at my PO Box today. I'll grab those next week. So that means I've got my valves, I've got my springs. I need to get my my 2V mounting plate that I'll graft onto the log next and then I have to decide on whatever rockers I decide to go with.

 

[awasson]

Hey, I'm wondering what plate I should get to do the 2V mod on the large log head.

I was considering the tri-power Offy adapter as well but I wonder if there is any benefit of the 3 - 1 barrel carbs over a Weber 38/38. I figure if I were going to do something with multiple carbs I'd go all in and do what Jann did on his Falcon with the Volvo transmission and the 3 2-barrel carbs with direct fuelling to each cylinder. That's beyond where I'm at at the moment.

Does this one work with a Weber? https://www.vintageinlines.com/product-page/autolite-holley-2v-conversion-adaptor

Is there any benefit to the spacers? 500 CFM, 350 CFM?

Thanks,
Andrew

 

[DON]

The guy that did mine used a 1/4 steel plate, 4 holes threaded, recessed head Allen screws to mount the adapter to the carb. I can get photos for details if you want

 

[awasson]

The guy that did mine used a 1/4 steel plate, 4 holes threaded, recessed head Allen screws to mount the adapter to the carb. I can get photos for details if you want

Hey Don,
If you've got some, that would be great. I was thinking of going to the metal supermarket and grabbing a chunk of 1/4" Aluminum and doing the same kind of thing. I'll use that phenolic plate as a thermal break, just to make sure the heat doesn't transfer too.

 

[DON]

I will get photos tomorrow. I think steel is easier to braze to the intske

 

[Frank]

200CID @ 80% VE
Gross air consumption:

350 CFM @ 7560 RPM

500CFM @ 10,800 RPM