Howdy nick & John:
Here I go defending the lowly Autolite 1100s again. They are not bad carbs, they are just not understood. They deserve your pity, not scorn.
The one barrel Webers John is talking about are both scarce and expensive here in the US. Best recycle source is on some of the last carbureted VWs. earlier one used Solex one barrels. Those are not a good choice. New the Webers are quite pricy.
The best reason for you to use the 1100s is because you've got them. Look them over and select three. One for the center should have a choke mechanism, a tight throttle shaft. If I were in your shoes, I'd look for the non-auto trans type with one dash pot. I'd also put a 200 type with a 1.2" venturi in the middle. This is the one you'll idle on and start up with, assuming you're planning on progressive linkage. You would be wise to use a '68 or later non-Load-a-matic distributor with this carb set-up. That would eliminate the Spark Control Valve problems.
For the two end carbs I'd look for two with matching venturi, and preferably a 1.00" venturi. These were for the early 144 engines and are very rare. I think '64 only. They are rated at 130 cfm, and the 200 is rated at 185 cfm. That's a bunch of CFM and you will need some rpms to utilize it. It will sure look cool though
The end carbs will need to be modified to eliminate the SCV, the choke and the idle circuit. Carefully plug and seal all vacuum holes in the choke and SCV .The throttle blades should shut tightly when not in use- no idle. Shut off the idle circuit by turning in the low speed air screws until they are tight. Select two that have the tightest throttle shafts. If these end carbs leak air at all it will make getting a reliable tune up on the center carb very difficult.
Tune the linkage to begin opening the end carbs at somewhere near 1/2 throttle on the center carb. The end carbs should be tuned for WOT only.
I know there are some on this forum who have used Autolites on a tripower. Come on, speak up.
Adios, David
