Another specific electric fan question

[Anonymous]

I've read through 3 pages of electric fan questions and still haven't found an answer to my questions. so here goes. I have a 65 mustang 200, 2 row radiator, no a/c. I want to REMOVE the stock fan blade, and add an electric PULLER fan. Can someone tell me the fan size, cfm, and part number they used and have had success with?

Most posts are overheating related, mine is just the opposite. My car never registers any heat while the engine is running. I even thought the gauge, and sensor were faulty, but it does climb (slightly) after a long drive, and I shut the car off for a few minutes, then just put the key on, but don't start it. It is wired properly, and I have a 180 t-stat installed correctly. The car doesn't have heat and my wife hates driving in it, because she's always cold. I also think it has adverse affect on performance being like this.

I want to get rid of the stock fan blade, an add an electric fan inside the compartment (puller) and would like help ordering the least expensive fan that will fit without cutting the car up, or fighting to make things fit. I like WSAIII idea of 12" from summit with adjustable t-stat. Will that work for me, and will clearance be an issue? I've read the majority install 16" but the clearance is my concern, so I'm looking for model numbers from vendors that you've used and had no problems installing. Is there another, better way to go? Any other information on related parts, relay numbers + vendor, spacer or adapters for the sensor connection, that fit my application would greatly help out too.

How much improvement H.P. wise, if any does this make? And lastly does a cold running car make it perform lousy?

I hope to make this as painless as possible! Thanks for your help and replies.

 

[Anonymous]

changing the fan isn't likely to make you car warm up. If your engine doesn't warm up then you have a faulty thermostat ( just because it's new doesn't mean it's good). If however it is warming up but the heater isn't throwing heat- that is a different problem. Run the car around town for 15-20 minutes then carefully take off the radiator cap and see if the coolant is hot or not. If not thermostat is bad. When you first crank it and it's cold coolant should not be circulateing through the radiator. Then when it reaches temp it opens and circulates. If the coolant warms up and no heat you have 1 or more of the following a clogged heater core, a disconnected heater hose, a faulty heater valve/control or even a low coolant level.
a stuck open thermostat will result in hot running in stop and go and cold running on the road. On the road you stock fan actually inhibits cooling as it disrupts the fow of air through the radiator.

 

[PutPut6]

For fitment issues you want to be mindful of fan overall thickness. I bought a 16" permacool from summit and planned on running it as a puller setup, but the fan was too thick and interfered with the water pump pulley bolts. So, I ran it pusher style which required a little bit of trimming to fit. If you read the last post on electric fans, you probably saw that I took all my electrical fan stuff out... I just don't think it's worth all the extra wiring and what not. If everything is setup correctly, electric fans aren't needed. Also, the possible extra power you may gain from not running a mechanical fan is negligible. After I removed the electric fan, I replaced it with a nylon mechanical fan from summit, I love this thing, it weighs practically nothing and has kept my engine cooled plenty.

 

[69.5Mav]

matt_hue

First. Independently check the coolant temp. I recommend getting a cheap kitchen dial indicator temp probe from the grocery store.

Next. I had the same problem with heat as you. One, the thermostat housing mating surfaces must be absolutely clean, I use scotch bright drill wheels from Kragens to get all the old gasket material off the surfaces. Two, I back flushed the heater core with a garden hose. Now I get plenty of heat.

For an electric fan I used a fan off an 82 sentra, also the radiator fan switch. I mounted the switch in a piece of grey PVC and cut the upper radiator hose and inserted the switch in there, then wired it up. Got every thing cheap from the junk yard.

Finally since my commute is so short (3 miles ) I completely disconnected the fan and blocked 1/2 the radiator.

By the way I have a 69.5 Maverick with a 170 3 on the tree.

 

[MustangSix]

I used to live in Des Moines and during severe weather, the heater core alone would have been enough to cool the engine!

The advice on checking the T-stat is valid. And buy a good Stewart or robertshaw unit. They are worth the extra few bucks.

One thing that could be happening is that the heater core is blocked. Very common, and the fix is to flush or replace it. It's a tedious job, but it gives you the opportunity to rebuild the box with new seals. The heat and defrost will work so much better.

On the electric fan, some tests have shown that it takes as much as 7-8 hp to turn the stock fan. It would be enough of a difference to feel.

A 14" pusher will fit the front of the radiator pretty well. Some 16" fans will also fit, but check the depth. It's a tight fit to install a puller, but many have made it work.

 

[Anonymous]

I thought the T-stat was bad, so I replaced it with another. I doubt two in a row are bad. I haven't checked the heater core, nor flushed it, maybe thats the trouble. The other problem is the car runs too cool. The water does get hot and is under pressure when release the vent on the radiator cap, but never gets really up to temp. Should it get up to 180? Is that better for throttle response? My gauges show no or very little movement on the gauge. (until car shut off, like described before) By removing the stock fan, I'm hoping to control engine temps better by cycling the fan only when needed. That's the plan on warming the water up. 7-8 horses freed up is a perk too! I'll give it a flush but still plan on swapping to a electric fan so please keep your replies coming regarding which company and model to go with. Also can you tell me if it makes the car sluggish if running too cold? Thanks again

 

[addo]

First up is to ignore the relative position of a standard gauge. They're indicators, not accurate registers. An aftermarket mechanical setup is the most reliable and may tell a different tale altogether.

An engine below temp may have parts not expanded to operating design size. This can result in loss of combustion efficiency through extra blow-by, also carbon depositing and accelerated wear are likely outcomes.

Regards, Adam.

 

[wsa111]

Matt, I use the Flexolite thin line with adjustable thermostat.

This fan is about 2 1/2 thick, just enough clearance to clear the water pump pulley.

This fan is available from summit. William

 

[Anonymous]

William,

Have you ever had any overheating problems due to the lower CFM output of that fan? I'm assuming the stock fan is on the shelf in the garage. Has your electric setup ever gotten a little too high for comfort?