Autolite 1100 on 200 inline six
- Thread starter Gervill47
- Start date
I cleaned out old metal tank-to-pump fuel lines by removing the line at the tank (was installing new tank anyway) and spraying brake cleaner spray into the line in the front, followed by compressed air. Continue process until it blows out clean at the rear. . Not as effective as replacing the line, but works well enough. On that vehicle I then used an inline filter before the pump. Normally the inline filter should be after the pump, as gas "boils" into vapor at a relatively low vacuum. Better for physics and the pump to have the filter on the pressure side of the system. After about one tank of gas consumed, any remaining light debris from the line is 95% cleared out. After a couple of tanks I replaced the inline filter, moving it to the carb side of the pump and no further issues.
Replace any rubber line too, if its old. Alcohol is hard on the system. (don't forget the short rubber piece at the tank).
Replace any rubber line too, if its old. Alcohol is hard on the system. (don't forget the short rubber piece at the tank).
Kids have been known for putting dirt in gas tanks.
Hello of of you that have supported my effort. I decided to play it safe and remove the fuel tank to ensure that is clean.. Reason is that after I tune the cat with the existing Autolite carb I will be installing a tri power Offenhauser so I want to make sure that the tree carbs will be free of debris from the tank. Easier said than done. Whoever installed the tank in 2020 the y used, I Think PVC cement and the tank is stuck and cemented in the frame of the car where the tank goes. I am using Isopropyl alcohol to see if I can soften the joints and pull the tank away. If this becomes a real issue then I am planning to replace the sender unit and in that hole see is if I can clean any garbage that was left behind after draining the tank.
Can any of you recommend anything with regard to the removal of the tank?
Appreciate your comments
Can any of you recommend anything with regard to the removal of the tank?
Appreciate your comments
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frozenrabbit
Famous Member
I'd take a heat gun to it, looks like silicone bathtub caulk.
Otto
Well-known member
It does look like silicone; that's unfortunate. Maybe get a putty knife under it if you can. It might be possible to cut some of that with piano wire or guitar strings.
Once you get it out, use some 3M Strip Caulk instead of silicone to install it.
Thank you. The tank has been drained of all of the fuel six days back and it is all dried. Is it safe to apply heat with a heat gun to the edges of the tank to soften the seals where it sits in the car's frame? I was able to partially introduce a borescope an take pictures as shown. Tank is pretty dirty and it seems that is from the fuel. So I have to have it cleaned. Please your comments regarding the heat gun application
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Tank looks really bad for as "new" as it is. . . Just helped a friend get his big generator going. Carb was all gummed up. . Alcohol in gas is ok for daily use, but when it sits its destructive in many ways.
Be overly careful with heat of any kind. Don't make a spark either when it comes loose. . I've seen guys fill the tank with water. This flushes all the vapor out. The weight may help it break loose when you start releasing the silicone too. Not a recommendation per se, just info.
Be overly careful with heat of any kind. Don't make a spark either when it comes loose. . I've seen guys fill the tank with water. This flushes all the vapor out. The weight may help it break loose when you start releasing the silicone too. Not a recommendation per se, just info.
Otto
Well-known member
How is your aversion to risk? Sometimes an empty gas tank is more dangerous than a full one.
Since this is a Mustang, here's what I would try: if you have a floor jack, place a piece of plywood on the jack saddle and with the tank's bolts out, put some upward pressure on the tank. Don't cave it in, just a little upward pressure. Then try to cut the sealer and pry the tank up and out.
It looks pretty bad inside to me and with the availability of aftermarket sources of new tanks I don't think I would spend a lot of time on it.
Since this is a Mustang, here's what I would try: if you have a floor jack, place a piece of plywood on the jack saddle and with the tank's bolts out, put some upward pressure on the tank. Don't cave it in, just a little upward pressure. Then try to cut the sealer and pry the tank up and out.
It looks pretty bad inside to me and with the availability of aftermarket sources of new tanks I don't think I would spend a lot of time on it.
frozenrabbit
Famous Member
As dirty as the tank is inside, I'd fill it with water.
Remember the mustang tank is removed up and out of the trunk- it doesn’t come out the bottom.
A jack would be helpful as well as someone to keep pressure on the tank- keep jacking pressure on it.
With a little care, you should have no worries from the vapor inside. No spark risk on the inside. Nothing is moving on the inside to generate a spark. The tank is sealed, not leaking. Maybe don’t put the jack in the middle to start. Start on one corner and get it broke loose. Once that happens you on on the down hill
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You must find a source for ethonal free gas. You would not be having this problem. Ethonal collects moisture, moisture caused your problem. If the car is going to sit for a while ( more than two weeks ) fill up the tank so condensation doesn’t happen on the exposed surface inside the tank.
I had a 1987 honda XL 600, steel tank and gas cap. I sold it a couple yrs ago and the inside of the tank and gas cap looked like new. Not a bit of rust
E-free gas has other advantages but have ranted long enough this time
A jack would be helpful as well as someone to keep pressure on the tank- keep jacking pressure on it.
With a little care, you should have no worries from the vapor inside. No spark risk on the inside. Nothing is moving on the inside to generate a spark. The tank is sealed, not leaking. Maybe don’t put the jack in the middle to start. Start on one corner and get it broke loose. Once that happens you on on the down hill
. You must find a source for ethonal free gas. You would not be having this problem. Ethonal collects moisture, moisture caused your problem. If the car is going to sit for a while ( more than two weeks ) fill up the tank so condensation doesn’t happen on the exposed surface inside the tank.
I had a 1987 honda XL 600, steel tank and gas cap. I sold it a couple yrs ago and the inside of the tank and gas cap looked like new. Not a bit of rust
E-free gas has other advantages but have ranted long enough this time
Thank you all for your suggestions. As Otto indicated I placed a 2x4 under the bottom of the tank and with a hydraulic jack I placed some upward pressure on it. I then with a syringe I spread acetone to all of the edges and two hours later the tank was released from the sealant. Tank is out and I will be taking it for cleaning. Again thank to you for your interest in helping me out. Regards
Well done! One step closer to driving down the road.
Well back too you with some questions. Cleaning the tank was quoted at $210 with no guarantee that it would come out of the repair for use. So, in knowing that I can purchase a unit for 50% for the price of the repair. Could someone recommend me a provider that I can approach for a new tank? Also I found in the area fuel supplies without ethylene.
Appreciate your comments
Appreciate your comments
I got a tank for a '62 Rambler from these folks. There was no tank listed for that car, ended up with a tank for a '52 Chevy which went in with minor mods. Got the correct AMC sending unit. The tank, fittings, gaskets and sending unit are very good quality.
Fuel Tanks
Tanks, Inc. manufactures fuel system components and polyethylene, steel and stainless steel gas tanks for street rods and special interest vehicles.
www.tanksinc.com
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