The Wife and I Just picked up the engine . Done Deal . Headed back home . Will post picks soon
Building My Aussie 250 2V
- Thread starter falconcritter
- Start date
Got it home .....
and something extras ... an Aussie Water Pump (he said he bought it from Mike's )
and something extras ... an Aussie Water Pump (he said he bought it from Mike's )
chad":3jtmdezi said:may B ck the snout length on the W.pump? I gota GMB for my (non-Oz) 250 ina bronk and it looks shorter.
If U want give me the number, meanwhile I may B able to find mine (part #) altho it's beena yr...
:
Here are the members on the box. 125-1290
now I think a lill deeper, U have an Oz block, no?
So my info aint useful. My block is usa...
I did ck, oddly enuff I C in the Handbook (p 45) I crossed out the entry and put my own in:
" GMB - 125 - 1380 "
as the 1 there is for a usa 200/3.3L
We have some measurments for Oz motors and usa. The 1 U have looks like it will take our motor mounts and therefore frame towers...
Am I correct - U have an Oz motor or is this just the Oz 2v head? Here's a well known pic of this head:
index.php
So my info aint useful. My block is usa...
I did ck, oddly enuff I C in the Handbook (p 45) I crossed out the entry and put my own in:
" GMB - 125 - 1380 "
as the 1 there is for a usa 200/3.3L
We have some measurments for Oz motors and usa. The 1 U have looks like it will take our motor mounts and therefore frame towers...
Am I correct - U have an Oz motor or is this just the Oz 2v head? Here's a well known pic of this head:
index.php
I have the OZ cylinder head and intake . This short block is out of a mustang convertible , C6DE 6015 B .
Great job Falconcritter, its sure looks like a regular US 200 six block to me! Those GMB water pumps are excellent looks like with the gasket set all you need are the bolts to assemble it into the compleate long block. 
So you might want to measure the top of piston to get the block deck height measurement, looks close to a zero deck height. The bore size think you said .040 ove so 3.720, next also CC the heads combustion chambers togeather with that info and head gasket thickness (looks like maybe has the Victor head gasket if so that's .044) now you can calculate the Static Compression ratio. Next you can check the cam timing events with a degree wheel and dial indicator and you can calculate the Dynamic CR. Good luck
bubba22349":34730211 said:So you might want to measure the top of piston to get the block deck height measurement, looks close to a zero deck height. The bore size think you said .040 ove so 3.720, next also CC the heads combustion chambers togeather with that info and head gasket thickness (looks like maybe has the Victor head gasket if so that's .044) now you can calculate the Static Compression ratio. Next you can check the cam timing events with a degree wheel and dial indicator and you can calculate the Dynamic CR. Good luck
it looks like there might be a deck height of .07 on the pistons to block / not true zero , and the CC Chambers are .39 . I did this with a dial caliper depth rod and straight edge . and i measured the middle of CC chamber . the timing makes are lined up . So did I do it right ? if so this what i have what would be my Static Compression Ratio ?
Not quite on the head measurement I have a 100 CC beret (Cubic Centimeters) and use Alcohol mixed with a little bit of ATF for color to make it easier to see. Then place a 3/8 inch thick piece of plexi glass with a 1/4 inch hole over the head chamber using a little white grease brushed on around the chamber. Valves and a spark plug also need to be installed, the heads CC measurement of volume for each combustion chamber is the amount left in the beret subtracted from the starting amount. Here is a link to another more budget way to find out the heads CC's to. http://diyporting.com/cc.html
The measurement of the pistion height might be ok I usally use a dial indicator to find true TDC highest point. Or even better using a simple piston stop, turning the engine until it stops check the degree wheel reading or on the timing cover then turn the engine around the other direction until it stops again. True TDC is the half way point or in the middle of those two degree marks then measure from the pistion top in the center so there isn't any rocking of the pistion top to the block deck. Then you have that info you can easily get your static compression ratio. Good luck
The measurement of the pistion height might be ok I usally use a dial indicator to find true TDC highest point. Or even better using a simple piston stop, turning the engine until it stops check the degree wheel reading or on the timing cover then turn the engine around the other direction until it stops again. True TDC is the half way point or in the middle of those two degree marks then measure from the pistion top in the center so there isn't any rocking of the pistion top to the block deck. Then you have that info you can easily get your static compression ratio. Good luck
RATS !!!!!! Lot more work too do !
sending my best wishes to you as you go forward w/this engine work.
1 Suggestion if not done to-date:
Reciently bubba brought in a member's (echo) vid series (uTube) showin what U wish to accomplish (cept 4 the alu or sorry, I see it's Oz head) on the block U wish to accomplish it on. If never sitting w/some1 who went thru this process I'd recommend a scan of the vid. Echo did not only a good job on his moror/explaining it...in my eye he did so w/a lill humor. U can replay as often as U want certain sections & I learned a good deal from watching. Here it is just incase:
"...This is a video of my work in progress..
Work In Progress Part I............................https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gg_VFXm827w
Work In Progress Part II...........................https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rn0aDH7t838
Work In Progress Part III..."......................https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbUeLAp ... re=related
"the Handbook" does well on "CCing the Head" under "How To" (Step 9, 2 pages of it).
1 Suggestion if not done to-date:
Reciently bubba brought in a member's (echo) vid series (uTube) showin what U wish to accomplish (cept 4 the alu or sorry, I see it's Oz head) on the block U wish to accomplish it on. If never sitting w/some1 who went thru this process I'd recommend a scan of the vid. Echo did not only a good job on his moror/explaining it...in my eye he did so w/a lill humor. U can replay as often as U want certain sections & I learned a good deal from watching. Here it is just incase:
"...This is a video of my work in progress..
Work In Progress Part I............................https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gg_VFXm827w
Work In Progress Part II...........................https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rn0aDH7t838
Work In Progress Part III..."......................https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbUeLAp ... re=related
"the Handbook" does well on "CCing the Head" under "How To" (Step 9, 2 pages of it).
Falconcriter, I did a ball park run at the Compression Ratio of your engine combo. it assumes severial things though that are unknown at this point so could change considerably with the real numbers.
Ford 200
Bore 3.680 + .040 overbored = 3.720
Stroke 3.126
Flattop Pistions
Deck Clearance .007 down the hole
Victor Head Gasket 3.80 bore .044 thick
Stock Australian 2V Cast Iron Head un milled about 62 CC
Rounded off this is 204 Cubic Inch Short Block
Tentative 8.8 to 1 Compression Ratio
Info needed is the true head CC's, verifying of the piston deck height of .007 down the hole, and the head gasket bore size, with that info you can have the true Compression Ratio. Depending on the fuel grade you want to use you are quite close to the ideal of 9.0 to 9.2 to 1. But you can already see that this is going to be a real good combo. Along with the degreeing of the cam to find its specs and it's installed position will give the rest of the engine combo. Best of luck.
Ford 200
Bore 3.680 + .040 overbored = 3.720
Stroke 3.126
Flattop Pistions
Deck Clearance .007 down the hole
Victor Head Gasket 3.80 bore .044 thick
Stock Australian 2V Cast Iron Head un milled about 62 CC
Rounded off this is 204 Cubic Inch Short Block
Tentative 8.8 to 1 Compression Ratio
Info needed is the true head CC's, verifying of the piston deck height of .007 down the hole, and the head gasket bore size, with that info you can have the true Compression Ratio. Depending on the fuel grade you want to use you are quite close to the ideal of 9.0 to 9.2 to 1. But you can already see that this is going to be a real good combo. Along with the degreeing of the cam to find its specs and it's installed position will give the rest of the engine combo. Best of luck.
Here is my cam that I want too install in the short block and the post about it ...
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=76573
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=76573
Falconcriter, there's probally not enough compression ratio for that cam unless the heads be milled a lot, you would need to use some Dome type Pistons or maybe use a Turbo. It's a lot of cam for a 200, what's your planed use for your Falcon?
For N. A. You need around a minimum 9.8 to 1 C. R. and more would be even better, at the 9.8 CR DCR would be below mid the 7's. Couldn't find the exact specs for that grind number but this cam has around 224 degrees or more duration at .050, the RPM range is around 2600 to 6800 this cam would be good for a drag racer when used with about 11.5 - 12 to 1 CR. Next if your going to use that cam with an Automatic trans for best results you will need a higher stall torque converter too, plus a set of 3:50 to 3:89 rear axle gears would also help. I would also check the cam that's in the short block first to see what it is.
For N. A. You need around a minimum 9.8 to 1 C. R. and more would be even better, at the 9.8 CR DCR would be below mid the 7's. Couldn't find the exact specs for that grind number but this cam has around 224 degrees or more duration at .050, the RPM range is around 2600 to 6800 this cam would be good for a drag racer when used with about 11.5 - 12 to 1 CR. Next if your going to use that cam with an Automatic trans for best results you will need a higher stall torque converter too, plus a set of 3:50 to 3:89 rear axle gears would also help. I would also check the cam that's in the short block first to see what it is.
" NUTS " 
! That is a little too much for the street . And not looking to go that far into my car at this time . i will see what the cam says . ANYBODY WANT TOO BUY OR TRADE FOR A RACE CAM ?
! That is a little too much for the street . And not looking to go that far into my car at this time . i will see what the cam says . ANYBODY WANT TOO BUY OR TRADE FOR A RACE CAM ?
Hi, there is a page in the Ford Falcon Performance Handbook covering how to cc the combustion chamber. This is very important so you can figure out the static compression ratio. When I measured mine I used a small plastic syringe, just a small open end ( no needle ) to inject ATF into the plexiglass cover I used to seal the combustion chamber. And I did it like three times to make sure it was coming out right. It is a 20 cc syringe and I had to fill it 3 times. To get 54 cc of fluid into my combustion chambers. My wife is a nurse and these syringes are laying around the house, but I'm sure you can get one at any drug store.
I know wsa111 highly recommends Schneider cams, because the owner is helpful and will recommend a cam for your situation. One size does not fit all. If you put a very hot race cam your car will not idle and you will have to chirp the tires at every traffic light. Not good.
After you get the new cam in the engine you MUST degree it. My cam centerline was off over 15* with the stock replacement timing set, as well as with the old one that came off. Learn from Echoe's video how to find the cam centerline. I did mine with only the #1 piston installed and used a long 5/8 bolt in an old lifter to reach above the blocks deck. Good luck
I know wsa111 highly recommends Schneider cams, because the owner is helpful and will recommend a cam for your situation. One size does not fit all. If you put a very hot race cam your car will not idle and you will have to chirp the tires at every traffic light. Not good.
After you get the new cam in the engine you MUST degree it. My cam centerline was off over 15* with the stock replacement timing set, as well as with the old one that came off. Learn from Echoe's video how to find the cam centerline. I did mine with only the #1 piston installed and used a long 5/8 bolt in an old lifter to reach above the blocks deck. Good luck
