Diagnosis

[frogmn666]

From the carb site. This is what I am going to try to get. With my 14 = 28 + 10-12 initial will give me 38-40.

The rule of thumb is that the higher the compression ratio, the less total timing it can handle before detonation, and also the higher octane rating it needs to control detonation. Low octane fuels ignite faster, thus require less timing advance. Conversely high octane fuel can handle slightly more advance. Dyno testing has shown that most small block Fords with 9:1 to 9.5:1 compression make peak HP with 38-42 degrees total advance. Engines with 9.5:1 - 10.5:1 run best with 35-38 degrees total, and above 11:1, should not go higher than 35 deg. total. When using power adders such as nitrous, super or turbo chargers, the timing should be advanced accordingly.


The first step in curving a distributor is to set your initial and total advance. As detailed above and in the picture captions, the total is determined by the reluctor arm setting plus the initial advance. Ideally you should keep the initial between 10 and 20 degrees, and the total in the ranges listed above for your compression ratio. For example, if you are shooting for 40 degrees total, and your reluctor arm is on the 15L slot, you would have 30 degrees mechanical advance, requiring the initial to be set at 10 degrees.

 

[60s Refugee]

Cool! Me too.

By the way...the speed of dark is exactly the same as the speed of light

Harry

 

[frogmn666]

What wire set are you using? The ones I got from AZ are too short.

I think the dizzy is more centered on a Fairmont.

 

[60s Refugee]

I got mine at Advance Autoparts. They are called "Xact" plug wires. 8mm OEM style. Part #2962. price was $22.44. These are for a 78 Fairmont. I hope they fit, I haven't tried them yet, buy they look good.

I think the dizzy is located in the same spot as the 200 but I can't recall

Harry

 

[frogmn666]

I got the right ones. The store that gave me the wrong one didn't have the right ones and tried to substitute. Thanks for the reply. Now to get this all put together. Got all the parts, just gotta put them together and hope my curve comes out right. I put the stock springs back in with the loose heavy one. I did have to tighten up the light one so there was zero free movement. It goes about half way before it starts getting tight. That should give me about 24° before the heavy one starts advancing.[/b]

 

[60s Refugee]

Look at what I just found! This site has many tech articles. The link I list here is for ignition/cam degree info.

http://www.centuryperformance.com/ignit ... g-219.html

Enjoy!

Harry

 

[frogmn666]

This one is better.

http://www.carbdford.com/viewtopic.php? ... 7c35804eab

Got the dizzy in. TDC aims the rotor right at 6:00. I thought I read where it would be at about 6:30. If this puts my vacuum module at a bad position, I can turn the pump to get it where I want it. The crank gets loose at TDC, so I'm confident that the dampner hasn't slipped.

I found another coil. This one says SuperSpark or something. That makes three I have found after I bought the AZ one. Took it back when I got the right wires. I have a 12V, a Bosch 12V and the "Hot" 12V one with a foreign name. I tested them all with an old GM points dizzy mounted in a vise. The Hot one is mounted on the block.

How or where did you get your're switched 12V?. I'll look over your previous posts. I have to pull the screws from the dash to replace the dash pad. Would it be easier to get to the hot end of the ballast wire with the gauge cluster out?

 

[60s Refugee]

I'm planning to use the existing ignition wire from the "C" post on the ignition switch to the coil. I need to find out if there is a pink wire between the switch and the coil which is the resistor wire. If there is I will by pass the resistor by grafting between it and the ignition switch. The wire to the coil begins as a red wire with green tracer. It connects to a pink resistor wire that runs to the firewall connector. From the FW connector to the coil its supposed to be red with green tracer again. One of the other contributors has already mentioned the pink wire so I expect that's the case. I hope there is enough wire before the pink starts to do a proper jumper.

Harry

 

[frogmn666]

You listen(read)well grasshopper. Just pulled my gauges out so I could get at the switch. There is indeed a r/g wire from the back of the sw that is about 3" long. It has a female bullet connector that goes to the pink resistor wire. Just unplug it.

I used an awl from the engine side and enlarged the hole that the single wire comes through next to the main disconnect plug. I ran a 16ga wire from the engine side of the firewall, crimped a male bullet on, then just plugged it into the r/g bullet. I had to squeeze that bullet to fit my male bullet connector. It is easy to get at with the gauges out. Plug-N-Play.

I then cut the r/g wire at the engine side connector about an inch from where it comes out of the connector in case I needed to re-connect it, then crimped my new wire to the r/g that goes to the coil. It is the 2nd one from the left on the bottom row, next to a yellow wire. I now have full 12 volts at the original coil wire.

Send check or money order to: Mike.....

 

[frogmn666]

Got my DSII installed, but not fired up yet. Too hot to continue working this afternoon(close to 100°).
When the Sun starts to go down and I get shade, I need to put the white stuff under the module,
then hope it fires it up.

12 volt feed from ign switch -resistor. This puts the full 12 volts on the stock wire to the coil.

I decided to mount the HEI module on the coil bracket where it will get air-flow unlike the GM module
that is enclosed in the dizzy on the back of the engine. Does the word "clean" come to mind?

I know, the engine looks like crap. I got my `66 from my late dad and have just recently started to restore it.

 

[60s Refugee]

It's 57* and raining here. It's been raining for three days! At least no tornado's yet (knock on wood)!

Harry

 

[Patrick66]

mounting the module directly to the block might not be the best place, heat kills electronics. i put mine on the dipstick (facing away from the block) along with 2 heatsinks and a cooling fan. im still concerned it, and the coil, are going to get hot.

 

[frogmn666]

I was born in Dayton, but haven't been there since 1963.

Got her running. Won't idle below about 1200 with initial at 10°. I suspect it needs manifold vacuum to kick the timing up into the 20s or more. It's kinda weird. If I tweak the idle mixture or idle speed screw, it quits abruptly if the rpm drops below ~1200. No sputter, just dies. Hope everything electronic wise is ok.

The dizzy's vacuum nipple points right at the dipstick and is 1/8" away. I will re-index the dizzy to get it right. I could move the plug wires, but that would mean that #1 on the cap is not #1 anymore. Not my style.

The curve seems ok from my brief testing. Kinda hard to do alone.

 

[frogmn666]

Patrick66, like I said, it is not contained without air-flow like the Chevy module is. I will however carry a spare.

 

[Bort62]

Frog,

Have you confirmed 12v at the module?

The GM module will not run below 9v or so. I had a very similar problem to what you describe, and I discovered this as the cause.

 

[frogmn666]

Bort62, This morning, I checked the voltage on the open coil lead and it read over 12V, but when I connected it to the coil(load), it was 6.4 volts.

I pulled my gauges out to get to the ignition switch and there was a bullet connector (red/green) that went to the pink resistor wire. I un-plugged the pink wire and ran a wire through the firewall and connected it directly to the bullet from the switch that the pink wire went to. I cut the red/green wire on the engine side of the main connector and spliced my new 12v wire to it. I just checked and with the coil connected, I read 12.23 volts. If you look at the picture, the 90° connector on the top of the coil has a red wire that goes directly to pin "B" on the module. It also measures 12.23 volts.

Should it run ok at lower rpm? Perhaps I ruined the module by too much handling, but if that were the case, it shouldn't run all.

 

[60s Refugee]

The pic of your dizzy shows the vac hose missing from the advance. Did you remember to hook it up?

Harry

 

[frogmn666]

From what I have always been taught and what you will read here is to set static timing with the vacuum line off and plugged. What bugs me is that it won't idle down. It did before with the stock dizzy and the vacuum line off. More tomorrow.

 

[60s Refugee]

Yep, that's right. when you changed the curve springs, was there any slack in them? Maybe the dizzy advance isn't returning to idle position.

Good luck!

Harry

 

[Bort62]

Frog,

Measure the voltage @ the module while the engine is running.

In my case, the problem was caused by the resistor wire. It sounds like you have bypassed it, but other resistances in the system could be causing you issues.

Check voltage @ the module @ idle. (or as close to idle as you can get)

6.x V@ the coil not running sounds very suspicious.