Probably another simple fix

[Slipknotcc]

I did do the clear plastic container test and fuel was shot out in good amount and at regular intervals. The car is my daily driver and doesn't sit for more than a day at a time. The gas is less than a week old.

While trying to start the car I can see gas flowing down the throat of the carburetor and can see/hear the jet spraying fuel when I use the throttle.

Now, I have been checking the ignition system by putting the coil wire to grounded metal and looking for an arcing spark. When I initially turn the key there is a quick spark from the coil wire but then nothing else. Also with the coil wire connected I get no spark from any of the plug wires when put near ground. This could be because my battery may be low from the constant trying to start, but the starter still turns so it should be fine.

Could it be my coil? Is there any other way to test my coil??

Thanks,
Cory

 

[JackFish]

Could it be my coil? Is there any other way to test my coil??

Thanks,
Cory

Yes it could be, "swap with a known good unit" is often what the manual says.
At $30 or $40 it wouldn't break the bank to have a "known good spare" would it? :shockin:

 

[Frankenstang]

The main way that I know to test a coil is a resistance test like the one described here:
http://www.international-auto.com/afla- ... n-coil.cfm

Or using the FSM to check the primary & secondary circuits on a points system. I'd recommend you have a copy of the manual for this one in order to test all aspects of the ignition system, both circuits, starting ignition system test, ignition switch test, etc. You could still have the situation Ludwig originally described (ie short and/or ignition switch problem).

Also, as far as the coil goes...they're not that expensive, you could just swap it out as a matter of maintenance if your current one is older, but not sure that is the issue when you describe an initial spark then nothing . As you said, a battery with enough juice to start the car has enough to fire the ignition system...not a concern there. I would double & triple check any and all connnections you might have touched/adjusted, and hopefully someone else will chime in with additional or better thoughts on your ignition issue.
EDIT: Seeing your old post re: ignition switch...I'm going to guess something has come loose, shorting or the switch is shot.

PS Would help to know if you have the original points & dizzy ignition system or something else.

 

[Lazy JW]

Try hot wiring it. Run a jumper wire directly from the battery to the coil "+" terminal; this totally bypasses the normal ignition switch and all associated wiring.

If this brings no joy, then it's time to dig deeper. I'm a bit puzzled by your mentioning that you get ONE spark when you turn the ignition ON. Normally, you should get a spark whenever the ignition is turned OFF (but only if the points are closed at that moment). You may well have a bad ground inside the distributor, or possibly a bad condenser. This all presumes properly adjusted points in good condition, of course.

To test the coil by itself, do the hot wire thing with coil completely removed from the distributor setup. Run one jumper from the battery "+" terminal to the coil "+" side, and another jumper from battery "-" to coil "-". Connect a spark plug wire to the coil high tension tower, insert a spark plug and make sure that it is grounded. Then remove the wire from the "-" terminal; you should get a nice spark. reconnect the wire, then break the circuit, another spark. You can stand there and make sparks every time you break the connection; this is exactly how the "breaker points" work, by breaking the circuit. This test can be done on the bench with a battery or in the car.
Joe

 

[JackFish]

The problem with coil testing is that a cold coil might actually test out fine, but fail when it gets hot.

 

[Slipknotcc]

Quick Question:

So the voltage across the 2 terminals on my coil is 6.8v ..... shouldn't this be 12v???? I'm going to just run 2 wires from the battery to the coil, that should be ok right??


Thanks,
Cory

 

[Lazy JW]

..... I'm going to just run 2 wires from the battery to the coil, that should be ok right??


Thanks,
Cory

That's ok for testing the coil all by itself as described above; to hotwire the car only requires one wire though.
Joe

 

[Slipknotcc]

Ok, I'm at a loss.

Still no luck. So far, new : Spark Plug Wires, Fuel Pump, Rotor, and Coil.

I've tried every test that has been listed here so far . I'm at a loss. So here is a recap:

When the car died it slowly sputtered to a stop and wouldn't start again.
So first I checked for gas flow and found that my fuel pump was on its last leg, so I replaced that. Then had to clean out the carburetor fuel filter. And finally found that the float in the carburetor was beginning to stick. After cleaning out the carburetor and getting great gas flow, the car still wouldn't start.
I then checked the spark plug wires and found that two wires weren't connected to the metal connector and they were arcing and burning the connector. I then found that the resistance of the coil was quite a bit out of spec so I replaced that as well. But still I cant get spark out of the coil or distributor. Also, the ignition switch is relatively new, less than 1 year old.

Any Thoughts,
Cory

 

[Lazy JW]

Ok, let's do just one thing at a time.

Did you check the coil for spark as I mentioned above?
Joe

 

[CobraSix]

To me, I'm still thinking something may be up with the carb. The fact that it catches to me at least makes it sound like the ignition system works. The fact that it is running poorly points to the carb.

Try starting it with the throttle open 50%.

I'm wondering if you don't have a partially clogged idle circuit. I had that happen on mine. Wouldn't run at idle, and it was sudden. Like driving down the road and all of sudden when I let off the gas the car died. Could only keep the car running if it was over 2000 RPM.

 

[Lazy JW]

..... But still I cant get spark out of the coil or distributor.....

I'm just going with what he is telling us; no spark, no go.

 

[sixpony]

I once had a problem with the wire from points to coil, the points have two nuts on the connector, one to tighten on the contact spring and one to tighten the- wire that goes to the coil. My - wire was tight but the bottom nut on the contact spring was slightly loose, drove me nuts for a while. Also are you bench testing the coil or testing through the distributor cap, I once had a cap with an almost invisible hairline crack inside, the spark was following a carbon track right back to ground, thus no spark out of the cap. Good luck.

 

[Lazy JW]

I once had a problem with the wire from points to coil, the points have two nuts on the connector, one to tighten on the contact spring and one to tighten the- wire that goes to the coil. My - wire was tight but the bottom nut on the contact spring was slightly loose, drove me nuts for a while. Also are you bench testing the coil or testing through the distributor cap, I once had a cap with an almost invisible hairline crack inside, the spark was following a carbon track right back to ground, thus no spark out of the cap. Good luck.

Precisely.
That's why I suggested above to test the coil by itself. I have personally purchased a brand new coil that was bad; sometimes we get too distracted trying to out-think ourselves when we really need to just get back to the fundamentals.

If we cannot get spark out of the coil, then we need to get that solved before moving along.
Joe

 

[Slipknotcc]

I don't believe I have the point system, it looks like an electronic ignition system in the dizzy.

I finally got spark coming from the coil, but I believe either my battery or starter is dead. The starter is just a few weeks old so i hope that isn't it. The starter relay clicks but nothing else happens. I'm putting the battery on the charger to be safe, but any ideas are welcome.

Thanks,
Cory

 

[Lazy JW]

Good!
Now you have at least SOME spark, it's time to get the battery charged up and see if you actually have spark at EVERY plug. Pull all of the plugs and look at them to see if they are fouled from excess fuel, etc. If they look decent, stick them in the plug wires and leave them lying out but grounded so as to be able to watch them while cranking the engine. A helper would be a good thing to have at this time to spin the engine while you observe.
Joe

 

[ludwig]

A helper would be a good thing to have at this time to spin the engine while you observe.

Or a thumb switch.

 

[mugsy]

Check the point gap or dwell angle (same thing). If the gap it too small it will prevent a good spark from forming. Don't ask me how I know

 

[Lazy JW]

I don't believe I have the point system, it looks like an electronic ignition system in the dizzy.....

 

[mugsy]

Lazy JW,

YupI saw that earlier. But he has not confirmed which system is in the car, either a point or electronic system, yet. We'll need to know to help him on troubleshooting the ignition system.

 

[Lazy JW]

Lazt JW,

YupI saw that earlier. But he has not confirmed which system is in the car, either a point or electronic system, yet. We'll need to know to help him on troubleshooting the ignition system.

Agreed. But I do believe we are dealing with a relatively inexperienced motorhead, and throwing too many things at once does get confusing.
Joe