Rear Main Seal for 65 200 inline 6

E

echo1955

Well-known member
Howdy one and all..
I need to replace my cam bolt for a 65 200 inline 6.
It is a 7/16-14 x 1.25”
Anyone know where I can get it?
cambolt.jpg



Also I want to us a Felpro PTFE Rubber Rear Main Seals.
Anyone know where I can get it.
All the parts store I have called refer to a rubber seal # BS3015
When I ask if it’s a PTFE, I get a…… hu?

Merry Christmas !
 
bubba
Is BS30135 a FelPrs PTFE rubber rear main seals.

I found an APR bolt but it's to long. Could I cut it to fit?
 
Is BS30135 a FelPrs PTFE rubber rear main seals.
Click to expand...

I don't know for sure though I would doubt it my guess is it’s the Nitrile rubber. If you can find a parts store that has the print catalogs the PTFE would be listed (if it’s made for the 200) in Federal-Mogul’s National Oil Seals line. Where you planing to maybe supercharge your engine to need the PTFE seal?

I found an APR bolt but it's to long. Could I cut it to fit?
Click to expand...

Yes I would think that you could do it if you take your time. If using a grinder try not to heat it much IE. dunk it in water or some oil to keep it cool.
 
bubba22349":2vil6xyg said:
Is BS30135 a FelPrs PTFE rubber rear main seals.
Click to expand...

I don't know for sure though I would doubt it my guess is it’s the Nitrile rubber. If you can find a parts store that has the print catalogs the PTFE would be listed (if it’s made for the 200) in Federal-Mogul’s National Oil Seals line. Where you planing to maybe supercharge your engine?
Click to expand...

It is Polytetrafluoroethylene.You can read up on it HERE
I found an APR bolt but it's to long. Could I cut it to fit?
Click to expand...

Yes I would think that you could do it if you take your time. If using a grinder try not to heat it much IE. dunk it in water or some oil to keep it cool.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I would use a ban saw: But I think I found one at Jegs.. I will confirm when I get it
Thank you bubba :thumbup:
 
Just like an old hot rodder says : 'If a little is good and more is better than too much is just right' :thumbup:
 
Echo,

The cam bolt is special. It is not a hardware item. Its made to be an interference fit so they don't vibrate loose. What is the problem with the bolt you have? Is it loose or is it that you just don't trust it anymore? I can't help you with where to find the right bolt. Ford? The better auto parts store? I am cheap. I have reused bolts before, making sure that they're still tight and pulls to torque solidly. In other words, the bolt is not stretching excessively. I always clean the threads of the bolt, cam, snout, sprocket, using brake cleaner and acetone. Then I use the permatex loc tite primer and the appropriate red loc tite. Don't have number in front of me and its a long, cold walk out to the shop in Michigan. I can get it if you need it. What I'm saying is, if you can't get the right new bolt, I would rather use a good, old bolt than the wrong bolt. But on second thought, if the ARP is designed for a Ford cam, you'll probably be alright. Of course, don't forget the cam spacer between the cam and the sprocket - not to be confused with the 2-bolt retaining plate.
 
Thank you very much drag-200stang for taking your time to help me along.

The bolt than came off the old cam after breaking the torque, I could screw it in with my fingers.
The same bolt will only go in about 1/16” on my new cam with my fingers and then I need a 1/2” impact to seat it.
This scared the crap out of me…

It’s hard to see in the pix but the bolt threads look strange and they will not match up to a thread gauge even though they will seat in the old cam????

What causes the bolt to react that way I ant got a clue. I don’t recall ever having to use the impact to drive a bolt home other than for speed..

I can screw any 7/16-14 all the way in with my fingers to the new and old cam.
I figure a new bolt would cause me to feel more comfortable about this..

I will see that all bolts, washers, nuts and threads are clean before I use them.
I will be using ARP lube on all fasteners as well.

The ARP bolt I ordered from Jegs is for a 65 Ford SB.. :thumbup:
I think it will work ??
2 bucks for the bolt :thumbup: :thumbup:
4 bucks Handling :thumbup:
4 bucks shipping :?
10 bucks and 48¢ total :evil:

So I b keeping that sucker even iffen it don’t fit … :mrgreen:

I have the cam spacer in.
cambolt-1.jpg

That is an easy one to over look.
I will also put some pre lube on the retainer. I wasn’t able to save the old dowel pin so I had to replace it.

Thanks again. I will post the results when I get the bolt.. until den... :beer:
 
Hey drag-200stang, I forgot some’n..
I was going to use blue lock-tite on the cam bolt, but since you suggested using the red I will use it.

I have already torque the 2 retainer bolts using ARP lube..
Should I take them out clean and redo using red lock-tite?

Thank
Roy
 
Roy,

Because of the vibration nature of these engines, and I'm sure you've read stories about bolts coming loose, I recommend using the high temperature, high strength red on the cam sprocket and cam bolt. The retaining bolts haven't been an issue but it wouldn't hurt to use the blue low strength threadlocker. The red typically needs to be heated with a propane torch to loosen. My manual calls for 42-45 ft lbs of torque on the cam bolt. Definately use a torque wrench so you know where you're at. I don't know what to say about the after market cam you have but, like I said earlier, the bolt is special and made for an interference fit. Both of my manuals called out 2 different torque specs for the cam retaining bolts, so I hate to give a spec for that. Use a torque wrench, using 5/16 course torque standards.

Something that I just learned about threadlockers, luckily I've been doing it right, they work by lack of oxygen but they also have to see metal ions. If the bolts are plated and the bolt hole is not clean iron/steel, the threadlocker will not harden. The primer fixs that. Also, the 4 marks on top of the cam bolt means its grade 6-7.
 
Hey drag-200stang
I show the retainer bolts are grade 8 and torque to 12-15 ft lb using high temp lcok-tite.

The cam bolt torque is 35-45 with red loc-tite.

If you had not brought it up I would have locked it down with ARP lube only..
When my bolt comes in I will post the result.

Thank again drag… :thumbup:



ps correction noted...... :mrgreen:
 
My document says the 2 cam retaining bolts are #8 and torque in 2 stages:
1 st: 12 ft.lbs
2 nd: 15 ft.lb.

My 1/2 torque doesn’t go down that far.
The formula to convert Ft. Lb to Inch Lb.
Ft.Lb x 12= Inch Lb.

Conformation can be found HERE

What are the 2 different torque your document calls for??
 
echo1955":2eedisxm said:
The bolt than came off the old cam after breaking the torque, I could screw it in with my fingers.
The same bolt will only go in about 1/16” on my new cam with my fingers and then I need a 1/2” impact to seat it.
This scared the crap out of me…

The ARP bolt I ordered from Jegs is for a 65 Ford SB.. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Echo,

Similar problem. Bolt didn't want to go into the Clay Smith cam... Curious how this is resolved because I'm in the same boat on my build.

According to the ARP catalog, the SB Ford cam bolt is a 3/8-16. Looks like we need the 390-428 FE cam bolt (7/16-14) BUT... looks to be a tad long.

Scot in OKC
 
Hey scot I found what I needed #629 HERE
I bought it because I did not know what I was getting from Jeggs. I also bought some other bolts as well… these people were very easy to work with over the phone..
GL Roy
 
Sorry for the late reply, my computer was down. Alot of people skim through these posts and pick up wrong information so I'd rather not put up numbers that might be misread as fact. I like the torque numbers you posted for the cam retaining bolts. If the picture you posted of the cam assembly is a picture of your engine, the one bolt is a grade 5. Can't tell what the other one is. But I'm sure you knew this. Good luck with your build.
 
Not a problem drag-200stang…I understand and appreciate what you are saying…
That cam bolt is the one I took out…
It will be replaces with an ARP..

I found a better place for ARP bolts Allen’s Fasteners
HERE

Thank again and have a Very Happy New Year..
And remember:
Today is the first day of the rest of your life.... :beer:
 
I can't tell from the photos, but make sure that you have the spacer installed on the cam behind the pin before installing the timing gear. Without it you can tighten the gear until it binds on the retainer and it won't turn. It could also put the cam gear too far in and the bolt will bottom out.

You also have to use that thick washer under the bolt head. A regular washer won't distribute the load and the gear could crack over time.

Finally, I've never encountered the bolt issue you seem to have, but it sounds as though your cam might not have been tapped deep enough. If that's the case, a little work on the grinder should fix the bolt length. Don't rely on torque alone to hold that thing. Get some blue Loctite on it as well.
 
Thank you MustangSix for the heads up.. The spacer is there.. that is an easy over look..
Camspacerdowelpin.jpg

I do have that thick washer.

Actually the original cam bolt would only screw into the Clay cam about 1/8”. I just checked the Clay cam and the ID threads are tapped in 1.25”

So what happened is a complete mystery to me..
headscratch.gif

any how I have ordered a new ARP bolt for it at Allen’s Fasteners HERE


ps: man you just made it under the wire… :thumbup:
I’ll let ya know what that’s all about latter.. :mrgreen:
until then have a cold one...on me of course ...
beer_tall_glass.gif
 
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