That's the way it should work. The "S" post bypasses the resistor wire and provides 12V to the coil when the solenoid is energized.
pedal2themetal45
Famous Member
CoME ON GUYS ....
If the chain was slipping he wouldn't be able to re time it.......
It has to be eather the dizzy hold down clamp isn't doning its job and the dizzy is moving, or the points arn't staying put. or finaly maybe the breaker plate is hanging up..
Tim
If the chain was slipping he wouldn't be able to re time it.......
It has to be eather the dizzy hold down clamp isn't doning its job and the dizzy is moving, or the points arn't staying put. or finaly maybe the breaker plate is hanging up..
Tim
With all the talk of cap, rotor and points; how about the forgotten component? Condenser?
A
Anonymous
Guest
Hey guys, original poster here. Thought I would give you an update at where I'm at on the car.
I got the timing chain and gears in. Seems to idle great and doesn't leak or anything so that is good. As suggested, that was not my problem. It did need to be changed and I'm glad it is done.
I made a post about the valves making noise after I fired it back up. It finally stopped after the car idled for about 30 minutes.
As I mentioned before the car had gotten so bad I could not drive it. I just recently rebuilt my "good running carb" that I bought off ebay. That was the carb I switched to here:...
"Changed to a different carb, (now rebuilt)
removed pertronix 1 and went back to points,
new spark plugs,
new coil,
new rotor + cap + condenser,
new plug wires,
new fuel pump,
new fuel filters,
wiggled all wires while running,
checked firing order,
checked and re-checked point gap,
Checked plug wire + coil wire spark,
changed to rebuilt distributor (twice) +
stared at engine and prayed!" "
After the rebuild, the car idled very good. I had a couple car guy friends over who were like " oh you fixed it for sure...blah...blah." I knew better.
Unfortunately, by rebuilding the carb I only got it back to where it was with my original problem (and original post) that started all this. Idles very good, good throttle response...dies upon deceleration. It backfires in the mufflers...pop..pop then croaks. In fact the car will idle all day no problem. Rev the motor no problem. Haul ass down street no problem. Dies upon deceleration…
Timing does not move now. Maybe never did? I know for sure the car would idle perfect then if I shut it off or drove a little it would not start or run until I moved the timing. The SCV was probably screwed up on this carb? Who knows? I am running the car with the vacuum advance plugged off now. Should have before as well. Live and learn....I also put another (2nd new) distributor in just incase.
I have had a couple different friends look it over and all appears to be correct.
Just bought compression tester and this is my next step. Unfortunately, I can't really afford a mechanic at the moment (tax time and all) + I don't know who to take it to. Probably should have done a compression test sooner. I will let you know what happens!
If compression is good...well....hmmmm...drain gas tank? Put on fuel pressure gauge...
On a positive note, the car has been screwed up for so long now that I'm not that mad anymore! I have just accepted the fact that the car may never run right again. HA HA... It makes a sweet garage ornament.
I got the timing chain and gears in. Seems to idle great and doesn't leak or anything so that is good. As suggested, that was not my problem. It did need to be changed and I'm glad it is done.
I made a post about the valves making noise after I fired it back up. It finally stopped after the car idled for about 30 minutes.
As I mentioned before the car had gotten so bad I could not drive it. I just recently rebuilt my "good running carb" that I bought off ebay. That was the carb I switched to here:...
"Changed to a different carb, (now rebuilt)
removed pertronix 1 and went back to points,
new spark plugs,
new coil,
new rotor + cap + condenser,
new plug wires,
new fuel pump,
new fuel filters,
wiggled all wires while running,
checked firing order,
checked and re-checked point gap,
Checked plug wire + coil wire spark,
changed to rebuilt distributor (twice) +
stared at engine and prayed!" "
After the rebuild, the car idled very good. I had a couple car guy friends over who were like " oh you fixed it for sure...blah...blah." I knew better.
Unfortunately, by rebuilding the carb I only got it back to where it was with my original problem (and original post) that started all this. Idles very good, good throttle response...dies upon deceleration. It backfires in the mufflers...pop..pop then croaks. In fact the car will idle all day no problem. Rev the motor no problem. Haul ass down street no problem. Dies upon deceleration…
Timing does not move now. Maybe never did? I know for sure the car would idle perfect then if I shut it off or drove a little it would not start or run until I moved the timing. The SCV was probably screwed up on this carb? Who knows? I am running the car with the vacuum advance plugged off now. Should have before as well. Live and learn....I also put another (2nd new) distributor in just incase.
I have had a couple different friends look it over and all appears to be correct.
Just bought compression tester and this is my next step. Unfortunately, I can't really afford a mechanic at the moment (tax time and all) + I don't know who to take it to. Probably should have done a compression test sooner. I will let you know what happens!
If compression is good...well....hmmmm...drain gas tank? Put on fuel pressure gauge...
On a positive note, the car has been screwed up for so long now that I'm not that mad anymore! I have just accepted the fact that the car may never run right again. HA HA... It makes a sweet garage ornament.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Bort62":5u1jfwly said:
I have it blocked off temporarily to take the scv advance out of the equation. I suspect that was my problem with the moving timing? Or maybe it was the other distributor.
Actually I have tried my car both ways since rebuilding the carb recently (vacuum blocked and not) and still same result. Dies on deceleration...I'm just driving the car a little around town. Should be fine right?
I suspect my replacement carb "off good running car" was actually on it's last legs and added to my crisis. Now it is rebuilt and appears to be running good. Easy to rebuild by the way...
Car still dies on deceleration.
A
Anonymous
Guest
After thinking about this I have a guess at what may have happened.
1) Car goes from running great to dieing on deceleration and basically not being drivable.
2) I buy supposedly good carb off ebay. My old carb had problems and was not rebuildable.
3) New carb seems to run fine and makes no difference.
4) I proceed to throw parts at car and replace everything I can unbolt.
5) Somewhere in here the carb scv starts to screw up and causes all of the weird timing problems I was having. This blows my mind...
6) In desperation I pull off timing cover and take detour to replace chain that was worn and appeared to be original.
7) Finally rebuild replacement carb.
8) Horrifyingly end up right where I started. Car that dies on deceleration and is basically not drivable.
Just a guess, but might be what happened??
1) Car goes from running great to dieing on deceleration and basically not being drivable.
2) I buy supposedly good carb off ebay. My old carb had problems and was not rebuildable.
3) New carb seems to run fine and makes no difference.
4) I proceed to throw parts at car and replace everything I can unbolt.
5) Somewhere in here the carb scv starts to screw up and causes all of the weird timing problems I was having. This blows my mind...
6) In desperation I pull off timing cover and take detour to replace chain that was worn and appeared to be original.
7) Finally rebuild replacement carb.
8) Horrifyingly end up right where I started. Car that dies on deceleration and is basically not drivable.
Just a guess, but might be what happened??
I'll take a shot at this. Just because the carb was rebuilt, doesn't mean it is adjusted correctly. I rebuilt my 1100 last week and there are a lot of critical adjustment needed, not counting blowing out all the holes and ports.
The stalling on deceleration is because the "Anti-Stall" Dashpot is not adjusted correctly. If you just bought the GP Sorensen kit and only replaced gaskets and the SCV valve and did not adjust the float, accelerator pump, dash-pot, choke pull down, auto choke unloader then you wasted your money. You may be missing the ball check valves also.
My 66 runs so much better after a complete rebuild to the correct specs.
You may also have a heat related vacumm leak. Torque to spec all your bolts on the manifold, carburetor and adapters when they are hot.
Take a vacuum reading when cold and hot. It sould be steady whether it is hot or cold, but may not be the same. It should be a steady reading at idle or with the throttle part way open.
You or we are overlooking something.
What I want to know is when it quits and you re-adjust the timing, do you set it physically back to where it was when it did run ok? Check the hold down clamp again. I had a 79 Chevy 400 that the hold down did not prevent me from turning the dizzy.
The Sorensen kit from Autozone includes adapter gaskets, so if in doubt, replace them too. I didn't need to. Make sure all the hoses to the carb are leak free.
One way to find a vacumm leak is to use a squirt bottle with water and spray it vigorously on all the intake connectors, hoses and ports. If the rpm changes, you have found the leak.
The stalling on deceleration is because the "Anti-Stall" Dashpot is not adjusted correctly. If you just bought the GP Sorensen kit and only replaced gaskets and the SCV valve and did not adjust the float, accelerator pump, dash-pot, choke pull down, auto choke unloader then you wasted your money. You may be missing the ball check valves also.
My 66 runs so much better after a complete rebuild to the correct specs.
You may also have a heat related vacumm leak. Torque to spec all your bolts on the manifold, carburetor and adapters when they are hot.
Take a vacuum reading when cold and hot. It sould be steady whether it is hot or cold, but may not be the same. It should be a steady reading at idle or with the throttle part way open.
You or we are overlooking something.
What I want to know is when it quits and you re-adjust the timing, do you set it physically back to where it was when it did run ok? Check the hold down clamp again. I had a 79 Chevy 400 that the hold down did not prevent me from turning the dizzy.
The Sorensen kit from Autozone includes adapter gaskets, so if in doubt, replace them too. I didn't need to. Make sure all the hoses to the carb are leak free.
One way to find a vacumm leak is to use a squirt bottle with water and spray it vigorously on all the intake connectors, hoses and ports. If the rpm changes, you have found the leak.
pedal2themetal45
Famous Member
dieing on deceleration could be a couple of things both carb related...
1) Is the float to high?? causing fuel to come out the vent tube and flood out the motor...
2) is the idle to slow?? should be 650 to 750 in Nuteral for a manul or in D for an automatic.. I'd stay to the 750 side
hows the Air/fuel mixture at idle could be lean??
Tim
1) Is the float to high?? causing fuel to come out the vent tube and flood out the motor...
2) is the idle to slow?? should be 650 to 750 in Nuteral for a manul or in D for an automatic.. I'd stay to the 750 side
hows the Air/fuel mixture at idle could be lean??
Tim
pedal2themetal45
Famous Member
Bort62":2d81ux1d said:You supply the pizza and beer and I will come fix it for you
This sounds like a great deal reweb.. I'd take him up on it..
Tim
A
Anonymous
Guest
frogmn666":p6ch0yif said:
Thanks for the comments everyone...
I bought a good rebuild kit that included the scv and ball checks etc. I adjusted the float and dashpot to specs. Carb runs great. Did not change the fact that car dies. My car is a manual trans by the way so the dashpot should not have that much to do with it anyways.
I do not have any vacuum leaks. I can get a steady 19 pounds on gauge at idle.
The timing is no longer moving. Pretty sure it was the svc on the old carb. Not sure though because I changed the timing chain, 2nd distributor and rebuilt carb all at once.
I will do the compression test. (Hopefully today after work) and get back to you guys.
Thanks for the offer Ian. If you are willing to drive to Santa Cruz I may take you up on it. I will definitely buy the pizza and beer!
Let me see what the compression test tells me.
A
Anonymous
Guest
reweb":1py3jdft said:
Well there you go guys beer and pizza at reweb's house tonight. Now all we need is a good flathead screw driver, a real good 3 lb hammer and a hacksaw and we will have everything we need for this shin-dig. After reading this entire post my head would swell up and then go down like a balloon as I pondered all the opinions and I have to agree with Borg62 because it is all coming back to what he first said in the beginning of this post. I am like reweb in a lot of ways though because I to check out every opinion and then in most of my cases it is always the simplest little things to begin with. One thing about it though we have a host of people who are more than willing to help out and that is a good thing. See all yall at reweb's tonight because he did say he was buying beer and pizza .
pedal2themetal45
Famous Member
reweb":cfamcl7a said:
I don't think your going to find a prob in Compression with being able to have a steady 19 LB's of vacuum at Idle.
reweb":1k1pv7gc said:
What is your base timing? With the Vacuum advance not hooked up on the LOM distributor, you are getting zero advance. That means that you are @ static timing, all the time.
I can't even comment on what this may cause because I've never driven a car with NO advance. It's entirely possible that the lack of advance combined with some other minor tuning tweaks is causing you to die on decell.
If you are getting a STEADY 19" @ idle, then your valves are good. Bad ring seal or otherwise bad compression would not cause what you are seeing and still allow it to run "good" otherwise, So I don't think that is a problem.
I really think that at this point you probably just have a relatively minor tuning issue, possibly related to the lack of spark advance. Is your carb running on the idle circuit and not the main?
Depending on if I decide to work on my car sunday or not, I may be able to swing by and give you a hand.
james singleton
Well-known member
Reweb, I assume the 19inches of vacuum that you are getting is manifold vacuum, correct??? I believe with a L.O.M. and the 1100carb you would get 4.5-7.0 inches of "venturi" vacuum to the dizzy!??? Jim
has the balancer been checked for slippage?
verify timing is advancing and retarding with a light and running motor?
verify timing is advancing and retarding with a light and running motor?
A
Anonymous
Guest
Bort62":37e8sms3 said:
19inches of vacuum that you are getting is manifold vacuum, correct??? Yes it is manifold vacuum.
I have verified that the balancer is good.
I only drove the car one time with the vacuum advance disconnected. It is hooked back up. THIS IS A NONE ISSUE...
I haven't had time to do a compression test. Maybe this weekend. After the compression test I will go at it again with vacuum gauge + timing light + I will buy a dwell meter.
This will rule out "just have a relatively minor tuning issue". Please keep in mind I have owned this 40+ year old car for over 7 years. I am not new to tuning a classic car. I have owned a few other classics with points etc. I restored this car myself. The only time a mechanic has touched it was when I pulled out the motor and took it down to be rebuilt. Then I put it back in, and re-installed every part + tuned it so it ran perfect....
Something funky is going on. Now that the carb is rebuilt I may be able to get it? I will say it is behaving exactly how it did with the other carb. That is why when I originally switched carbs. (the first thing I did to try and fix car) it made me think it's not the carb?
Anyhow I will let you guys know if I have a breakthrough of any kind. Thanks...