I should also add my fan is on for the vast majority of the time because I have it set to kick on at 160 because at 170 or 180 it gets way too close to overheating for my liking since it takes a bit to actually cool
When I was trying to get mine to work, I put my fan relay on a switch. Even running full time, I couldn’t keep the carb from Vapour locking. That was without a phenolic spacer and without a heat shield between the carb and engine and with my gas line basically on the valve cover. My engine compartment is ridiculously hot but blowing hot air around the engine compartment was just enough to keep it from Vapour locking.I should also add my fan is on for the vast majority of the time because I have it set to kick on at 160 because at 170 or 180 it gets way too close to overheating for my liking since it takes a bit to actually cool
That and why you have oil in the filter housing. I laid out the PCV system in post 169. Is yours correct? If there's oil in the filter housing it is not correct. Either the PCV valve is not functioning correctly, not routed properly, or the engine is very worn out. Oil in the air filter means a large % of the blow by is going up that hose into the filter, which should only be occurring on heavy throttle.So for for now I'm trying to figure out the vacuum situation that way my booster isnt gets crank case fumes
Dang it, I'm confusing threads again- my bad. Thanks for the pic. That Tee where the PCV comes in is in the worst possible place, oil can run directly into the booster. The Tee should be at /in the intake, with the PCV going straight into the intake, and the other vacuum sources coming in from above. A Tee that threads directly into the intake provides the best flow.View attachment 26591
The line that ties into the blue metal line is how the vacuum is routed. Under the metal support is a tee that connects to the transmission.
I dont have a line that goes into the air cleaner and I don't see anywhere to hook one up to.
Hi,ive built a mild performance 200 engine for a client and its got the AUSSIE performance 2v head on it from the 250 engine,extractors,mild street cam,flat top 30 thou pistons,5 spd manual,would the 38/38 carb(are they more thirsty ?) be a better option than the recommended 32/36.Its built as an every day driver,not a racer,ive been told run a fuel line regulator and set it 3psi ?Any advice gladly accepted.Thanks MikeYes, that is supposed to be ported vacuum. It should be completely closed with no vacuum at idle.
How many turns in is the idle speed screw? You can back it up a quarter or half turn at a time, keeping track of how many turns it takes for it to just kiss the throttle stop lever without it opening the throttle blades. It should be no more than 1-1/2 turns.
If it’s less than 1-1/2 turns and it’s pulling vacuum, there’s a problem with the carb. If it’s more than 1-1/2 turns, you’ll need to do the best lean idle procedure I linked earlier.
Hi Mikez, welcome.Hi,ive built a mild performance 200 engine for a client and its got the AUSSIE performance 2v head on it from the 250 engine,extractors,mild street cam,flat top 30 thou pistons,5 spd manual,would the 38/38 carb(are they more thirsty ?) be a better option than the recommended 32/36.Its built as an every day driver,not a racer,ive been told run a fuel line regulator and set it 3psi ?Any advice gladly accepted.Thanks Mike
Hi Mike,Hi,ive built a mild performance 200 engine for a client and its got the AUSSIE performance 2v head on it from the 250 engine,extractors,mild street cam,flat top 30 thou pistons,5 spd manual,would the 38/38 carb(are they more thirsty ?) be a better option than the recommended 32/36.Its built as an every day driver,not a racer,ive been told run a fuel line regulator and set it 3psi ?Any advice gladly accepted.Thanks Mike