Probably another simple fix

Slipknotcc

Slipknotcc

Well-known member
Hey again,
I have a 65 Mustang with 200ci. 1barrel carb
So I'm pulling into the school parking lot and my car sputters and turns off. Luckily, I was able to coast into a spot and park. I tried starting my car a couple times before going to class and it wouldn't start. I get out of class and think that I'm out of gas because my gauge has been less than accurate at times.

I added gas and tried starting again and it still would just crank and not start. The odd thing is that when i would turn the key to on, the gas gauge would read 3/8th of a tank. When i would start to crank the engine it would slowly drop down to E and then back up once I stopped cranking the engine.

Also I don't see any gas going into the carb.

Please Help,
Cory Clark
 
My guess is an intermittent short in the ignition switch causing the power to drop out. I had a similar problem and a new switch solved it - mostly.
 
@ludwig : would that short cause my car not to start?

I just finished checking out most of the fuel lines and all of them have gas in them, but no fuel seems to come out of the carb when I pump it.

Thanks,
Cory
 
It caused mine to stop running in mid trip. However, there are also shorts that have continuity when it is starting and fail to maintain continuity when the key drops back to the 'on' position. You can check this with a thumb starter on the starter relay and the key on 'on'. But there are other reasons and some other guys may chime in here too.
 
@ Mike : There is fuel coming from the tank, to what i think is the fuel filter (metal cylinder with 2 lines hooked to it, on the right of the engine), and then from the engine to the carb.

Thanks,
Cory
 
when you say no gas when you were pumping it, are you looking into the carb throat?

If that's the case, you may have a clogged filter. Some carb set ups have a secondary filter on the carb. Check that.

Ludwig isn't far off from a possible cause. I had a similar problem once as well. Turned out (after swapping carbs, sitting on the side of the road, etc). that I had a loose ignition to coil wire and if it got jostled the right way, it would cut out the coil. And when I would dig under the hood, occasionally I would bump it back into good contact. It always looked fine, but wasn't.
 
Slipknotcc":3th6lgmz said:
gas gauge would read 3/8th of a tank. When i would start to crank the engine it would slowly drop down to E and then back up once I stopped cranking
Click to expand...

Most Autos turn all loads on the battery off when cranling except ignition. This allows maximum power to the starter. You probably never noticed it before.

Slipknotcc":3th6lgmz said:
but no fuel seems to come out of the carb when I pump it
Click to expand...

The quickest test for no fuel to the carb is to "prime" the engine. Pour about two table spoons of gas down the carb and try to start it. If it catches for a little bit then you got no gas in the carb. Could be a pluged fuel filter on the carb or a stuck float in the carb.

If it does not try to start then you most likely have an ignition problem. pull the coil wire from the distributor cap and place the metal tip close to ground and look for spark when the engine cranks. If you get a thick blue spark that makes a crak sound about 1/2' long then you are ok there.

Slipknotcc":3th6lgmz said:
(metal cylinder with 2 lines hooked to it, on the right of the engine)
Click to expand...

Thats the fuel pump.
 
If your engine in stock, the fuel filter is a little cartridge that screws on to the front of the carb. A rubber hose end slips over the inlet and the other end goes on a threaded nipple off the carb. This may be pugged. You can check fuel flow by disconnecting the fuel line at the carb, sticking the hose into a clear container and cranking the engine to see if you have gas. If yes, proceed to check the carb throat. If no flow, then it is the filter blocking the fuel or the float and needle valve blocking the fuel.

If there is no fuel before the filter, you have a fuel pump problem or a blockage at the tank outlet.
 
I agree with the clogged fuel filter analysis and would replace that first - especially if you got too low on gas in your tank you could have sucked some dirt and clogged the filter.

There is the inline filter at the carb and then the one below the fuel pump.

Let us know what you find out.
 
Hey all,
I'm trying to find some type of part number for the little fuel filter. Anyone know what I should tell the auto parts people that I'm looking for? A link would be even more helpful.

Thanks,
Cory
 
You want to ask for the fuel filter for the Autolite 1100 - I assume. The official Ford carb diagram does NOT show it. So it must be part of the fuel delivery system not the carb system.
 
Or, if you think it's part of the problem...bypass it for now. Take it off the carb. If the car still won't start, that's not the problem.

I removed mine pretty early on and never worried about it. The fuel pump filter is pretty good.
 
Ok here's an update now that school is off for the week.

So I took off the carb filter and cleaned it out. Also I found that one of my spark plug wires was pretty far gone and the contact had begun to burn. So I put on a new set of wires and still nothing.

The car will start for a second but idle very very roughly and then die.

Any ideas???

Thanks,
Cory
 
So after checking for flow through all the fuel lines and the carb filter. It seems as though no fuel is going into the carb. So that must mean something is stuck within the carb right?? I'm no carburetor expert but if someone told me what to look for I could find it. I'm not exactly sure what carb I have at the moment but I can upload a pic if need be.

Thanks,
Cory
 
ludwig":12dpn8p3 said:
If no flow, then it is the filter blocking the fuel or the float and needle valve blocking the fuel.
Click to expand...

Here's a generic diagram (not necessarily of your carb) that shows how/where blockage or varnish at the needle/seat can starve out the carb.

http://racingarticles.com/article_racing-20.html

69.5Mav":12dpn8p3 said:
The quickest test for no fuel to the carb is to "prime" the engine. Pour about two table spoons of gas down the carb and try to start it. If it catches for a little bit then you got no gas in the carb.
Click to expand...

I like 69.5Mav's suggestion for verifying the carb is not getting fuel.
Good luck!
 
So I tried the adding gas into the carb and starting it, and it starts for a sec then dies and wont start again until i add more fuel. Also I found that I have the Holley 1940 carburetor, does that make sense?

So it must be a stuck something in the carburetor right?

Thanks,
Cory
 
UPDATE:

After generous use of carburetor cleaner I now have fuel going into the the carburetor and through the jet into the engine. But still no vroom vroom. The car turns over and only catches for a second.

It must be spark then right?

Thanks,
Cory
 
ludwig":eqz9cxgb said:
You can check fuel flow by disconnecting the fuel line at the carb, sticking the hose into a clear container and cranking the engine to see if you have gas.
Click to expand...

Did you perform this test as well? You mentioned finding fuel in the lines, but did'nt notice where you mentioned checking fuel flow. Ludwig's test above is a good preliminary check of fuel pressure/delivery. Cycling the motor with a post-pump fuel line routed into a clear container as he mentions, can help determine you're getting consistent fuel delivery. Pulses/surges of fuel delivered by the mechnical pump should be roughly equal and of decent volume (should fill the container eventually...I'll see if I can find volume rate in FSM)...you'd want to note if you have a good pulse of fuel followed by a puny one...could indicate pickup or clogging issues back at the tank or a failing fuel pump. An inline fuel pressure guage (or multivac type tester) could be used to check post-pump pressure.

At one time mine had sat up so long the varnish in the tank pick up tube looked like tar or roofing cement...had to use a coat hanger and kerosene to clean it out completely.

Slipknotcc":eqz9cxgb said:
It must be spark then right?
Click to expand...

texas cliche' moment...'dance with the one that brung ya'. You're now getting response (ie some short starts) clearing/cleaning the fuel delivery points...I'd stick with that. Could be you've reintroduced new crud once you got the fuel flowing. How old is fuel in the tank? Has the vehicle sat for any length recently prior to this breakdown?

Ignition can fail spontaneously, but less likely with older points system (although still occurs..eg coil). More likely with some electronic ignition setups (ie some folks have had issues with loose magnets in the pertronix setup). BTW how is your current ignition setup?
 
According to FSM:
Fuel pump static pressure is: 4-6psi @ 500rpm
Minimum Fuel Pump Volume is: 1 pint/30 seconds @ 500 rpm

As they say, keep the info coming. I'm sure you'll get it.
 
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