Only one nipple
200ci Degree the cam?
- Thread starter Dustyford
- Start date
This applies only to 200ci
Frank,
I need to clarify something that you written in post #180. “If there are two vacuum nipples on the distributor vacuum advance canister, do NOT use the inner one that faces up. Don't plug it either. Use only the outer horizonal vacuum nipple.”
Being around working on many vehicles with 170 and 200 engines. And owning Falcons manufactured in 1968 and 1969, I do know a thing or two about them. In the late 1960’s the engines that had dual port distributors, did not have an outer horizontal vacuum nipple.
Here is what they had:
I felt I needed to clear this up so others will not get confused about what was written earlier. Ford made numerous different distributors throughout the years for the 170 and 200 engines and I’ve never seen an original OEM dual port distributor canister with a port on the end of the canister on any vehicle that Ford built in the late 1960’s. It looks like Ford might of updated the dual port distributor vacuum canister with a horizontal port on the end later-on. But, the original OEM canister was not built that way.
What Dustyford is referring to as a dual advance distributor is, it has both mechanical and vacuum advance.
To help clarify what vacuum advance canister the distributor has, here is a snapshot of a picture that Dustyford posted in post #102.
I need to clarify something that you written in post #180. “If there are two vacuum nipples on the distributor vacuum advance canister, do NOT use the inner one that faces up. Don't plug it either. Use only the outer horizonal vacuum nipple.”
Being around working on many vehicles with 170 and 200 engines. And owning Falcons manufactured in 1968 and 1969, I do know a thing or two about them. In the late 1960’s the engines that had dual port distributors, did not have an outer horizontal vacuum nipple.
Here is what they had:
I felt I needed to clear this up so others will not get confused about what was written earlier. Ford made numerous different distributors throughout the years for the 170 and 200 engines and I’ve never seen an original OEM dual port distributor canister with a port on the end of the canister on any vehicle that Ford built in the late 1960’s. It looks like Ford might of updated the dual port distributor vacuum canister with a horizontal port on the end later-on. But, the original OEM canister was not built that way.
What Dustyford is referring to as a dual advance distributor is, it has both mechanical and vacuum advance.
To help clarify what vacuum advance canister the distributor has, here is a snapshot of a picture that Dustyford posted in post #102.
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I did exhaust and manifold vacuum tests today. I dropped the exhaust pipe from the manifold after warming it up. I could only get it to rev to 3500 in second gear, less than with the exhaust connected. (3700)
Vacuum test WOT while accelerating 2500-3000+, for ten seconds. Dropped to 2” immediately and slowly came up to 4” by the end of the test. I hope this doesn’t make things more of an enigma.
Ok, what you need to check is if the throttle plate is opening fully at WOT.
Wedge the throttle pedal fully to the floor with something that will hold it to the floor. Then check to make sure the carburetor throttle plate is opened fully. If it is not open fully, adjust it until it’s opening fully then do the test again.
If the throttle plate is open fully, then your carburetor is too small. Vacuum should be under 1” preferably close to zero.
Wedge the throttle pedal fully to the floor with something that will hold it to the floor. Then check to make sure the carburetor throttle plate is opened fully. If it is not open fully, adjust it until it’s opening fully then do the test again.
If the throttle plate is open fully, then your carburetor is too small. Vacuum should be under 1” preferably close to zero.
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I hope so
Throttle plate was 90% open at full pedal. I adjusted for WOT. Will test tomorrow
Tested again today and vacuum dropped to 1” or slightly below. Then it rose slowly to 3” during the ten second span.
Do you know what rpm’s the engine was running when the engine was drawing 3 “ of manifold vacuum? (Please try to be as accurate as you can.)
More questions:
• Did the car run better since you adjusted the throttle linkage to open a 100%?
• Did it feel stronger?
• Was it faster when accelerating?
• Did it feel like it was struggling less?
More questions:
• Did the car run better since you adjusted the throttle linkage to open a 100%?
• Did it feel stronger?
• Was it faster when accelerating?
• Did it feel like it was struggling less?
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It varied. I tried different speeds to start out. It started out at zero and went up every rpm. No it didn’t make any difference in performance.
Thats how I get my rpm numbers
I wasn’t paying attention to the rpm. I was asked to get vacuum for ten seconds. I also have to watch the roadOk. I’ll floor it at a smooth 2500 and record vacuum at 3000 and 3500.
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Question:
• Are you able to post the rear axle code from the vin tag?
I would like to check what the original axle ratio is.
Added:
I read in one of your posts a while back that you were talking about the possibility of removing the 7.5” rear and replacing it with an 8” rear. Did you change out the rear?
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The presence of WOT vacuum eliminates the exhaust backpressure theory. Which you already confirmed with the pipe removal test.
