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My 78 200 with an eBay header runs great connected to Jones Y with a single 2-1/4" exhaust pipe over the rear end to a 2-1/2" turbo muffler.
A header with just a 2" exhaust pipe can flow all the exhaust most log head sixes can put out.
A 145 hp Ranger 4 banger has a less than 2" exhaust pipe.
If a person has a stock 1-1/2'' or 1-3/4" intake bore he is basically running a restrictor plate.
When I first enlarged a large log 1-3/4" intake bore + added a 270 cfm small base 2 barrel I blew the guts our of my old 2" turbo muffler at full throttle + high rpm.
It was so loud that I had to buy a new Turbo muffler. I was at the time running a 2" outlet 68 exhaust manifold.
A Jones Y will slip right over the 2 eBay header pipes.
A Harbor Freight exhaust pipe expander will easily slightly expand a 2-1/4" exhaust pipe to slip over the Jones Y 2" inside out let pipe.
I am now running 500 cfm (V8 rating 2 barrel) on a homemade steel carb adapter that matches the enlarged intake bore.
The Weber carb adapters don't have a provision for a PCV valve hose connection.
I have seen more than one Weber conversion have the PCV hose connected to the carb bowl vent.
A header with just a 2" exhaust pipe can flow all the exhaust most log head sixes can put out.
A 145 hp Ranger 4 banger has a less than 2" exhaust pipe.
If a person has a stock 1-1/2'' or 1-3/4" intake bore he is basically running a restrictor plate.
When I first enlarged a large log 1-3/4" intake bore + added a 270 cfm small base 2 barrel I blew the guts our of my old 2" turbo muffler at full throttle + high rpm.
It was so loud that I had to buy a new Turbo muffler. I was at the time running a 2" outlet 68 exhaust manifold.
A Jones Y will slip right over the 2 eBay header pipes.
A Harbor Freight exhaust pipe expander will easily slightly expand a 2-1/4" exhaust pipe to slip over the Jones Y 2" inside out let pipe.
I am now running 500 cfm (V8 rating 2 barrel) on a homemade steel carb adapter that matches the enlarged intake bore.
The Weber carb adapters don't have a provision for a PCV valve hose connection.
I have seen more than one Weber conversion have the PCV hose connected to the carb bowl vent.
this is Anonymous' post, #56 is 'riding the coat tails'.
For proper edikate AND better response (exposure) I’d say: “Make a new thread.” BUT...
not 2B a stickler:
“See tech archive." (above, 1st blue line, just right of center. It has them listed in order by performance...
“...back pressure is not a good thing!..."
see schavaging effect (can B called ‘back pressure’ but is really a different phenomina) articles by David Vizard
(granted on bent8s, my bet? - it fits for us too)
For proper edikate AND better response (exposure) I’d say: “Make a new thread.” BUT...
not 2B a stickler:
“See tech archive." (above, 1st blue line, just right of center. It has them listed in order by performance...
“...back pressure is not a good thing!..."
see schavaging effect (can B called ‘back pressure’ but is really a different phenomina) articles by David Vizard
(granted on bent8s, my bet? - it fits for us too)
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jcom4179
Well-known member
Wow, you know your stuff. A 2 " exaust is perfect, anything over 2 1/2 just doesn't do it on the 200. Any tips you can give me on the 32/36 1v to 2v weber conversion for my 200 inline 6. Is the power gain worth it. I've heard nothing but good reviews about that set up.
If you are not doing the direct 2V conversion whether you have a small or large log head increase the size of the inlet bore with a carbide bit in a die grinder. Match the aluminum carb adapter to the enlarged intake bore. The aluminum adapter can be enlarged with a 2 flute wood type router bit in a mini router with the base removed. The Weber conversion does not have a port for the PVC valve hose to be prepared to address that problem.
Here is an enlarged intake bore on a 65 small log head which is very close to the size of a stock large log intake bore. The bottom of the bore has been radiused.
Here is an enlarged D7 large log intake bore. The head is from a 78 Fairmont. The 78 Fairmont also has a D8 head
jcom4179
Well-known member
Got it, great instructions and pics. I would have never known any of that information.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and great advice. I really do appreciate it.
Jeff
the carb U mention many of us call ‘the pinto carb’ (its mirror the 5200 was on that car). It is progressive
meaning 1v is used till 1/2 (or more than) throttle pressure. That 2nd comes on when you "tromp the skinny peddle”. So
some do not consider it proformance (pep) model. I would think you’d look to the 2100, holey 350, and so on for pep. I
like the autolite/motorcraft as it’s highly tunable. If really on a webber - Y not the 38? Have some 1 jet and tune it 4 U and
drive in the ‘set it and forget it’ mode w/o worries. There’s a real 2v proformance carb.
meaning 1v is used till 1/2 (or more than) throttle pressure. That 2nd comes on when you "tromp the skinny peddle”. So
some do not consider it proformance (pep) model. I would think you’d look to the 2100, holey 350, and so on for pep. I
like the autolite/motorcraft as it’s highly tunable. If really on a webber - Y not the 38? Have some 1 jet and tune it 4 U and
drive in the ‘set it and forget it’ mode w/o worries. There’s a real 2v proformance carb.
jcom4179
Well-known member
Hey Chad, you recomend the 38 weber. Do they sell a 1v to 2v conversion kit for that carburator? Like a kit with the 38 arrives jetted for the 200 and no issues with the adapter plate for that carburater. If they do make the swap kit for the 38, who sells them ready to bolt on a 200 manifold. It's funny I watched a video last night of some guy putting that exact carburater on his vintage falcon. He said just mildly touching the gas peddle had the car going over 50mph after he installed and tuned the 38. If you know of a jetted kit that will bolt on my 200 let me know.
Thanks Chad
@jcom4179 Thanks for the photos. Nice to see how they look installed. Also, your car sure is pretty.
As far as carbs go, whichever 2V you choose, you can do the 2V carb with adapter for now, and if in the future you want to upgrade, you can always mill the intake log to accept the 2V carb directly without the bottleneck of the 2V to 1V funnel, and use the same carb.
As far as carbs go, whichever 2V you choose, you can do the 2V carb with adapter for now, and if in the future you want to upgrade, you can always mill the intake log to accept the 2V carb directly without the bottleneck of the 2V to 1V funnel, and use the same carb.
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jcom4179
Well-known member
I'm glad you like the pics, I did my best to get every angle of how well they fit. Thank you for the compliment on the car, it's a blast to drive. I might be changing gears, " literally" on doing the 2v swap this year. I have a 3 speed manual top loader transmission that I want to swap in to replace the C4. Earlier I put a post up asking if anyone knows where I can purchase a complete clutch kit. Basically going from an automatic to a manual I need everything. I've been looking online to find a kit with all the parts, but I don't even know if a complete swap in clutch kit exists. I'm also putting it out there if anyone has any clutch parts that will fit my car I'm looking to buy. Doing the swap piece by piece is going to be a daunting task. I will definitely have the Weber 2v in for next summer. I wish I could say the same for the manual tranny. If you have any advice on the transmission swap, "other than dude you gotta drop in a T5"
. For real there is no doubt you have a lot more knowledge than me when it comes to how things run under the hood, so if you do have any advice about the best way to even get the ball rolling or not rolling on swapping out my C4 to a 3 speed top loader I really would appreciate any advice you may have. I've had that transmission for quite awhile and it's like brand new. The manual transmission and eventually installing the 2v carburater would complete the car to exactly how I want it. Thanks
mike’s carbs is great,
(but other co.s are ok 2)
U’d also need:
www.vintageinlines.com
an adapter for the DGS,
rat tailed file (or better, a 1/2 round mill-bastard ) to enlarge the boar,
some step by step guidance,
may B linkage change,
other parts. That’d B a new thread...
(but other co.s are ok 2)
U’d also need:
Weber DGV Carb Spacer & Base Insulator | Vintage Inlines
Available individually in 1/4" and 1/2" thicknesses, or in a kit (pictured above) which includes two spacers (one each), and four gaskets (carb studs are optional). The spacers also act as a Base Insulator to reduce heat soak (transfer of heat) to the carburetor. This keeps your carb cooler...
rat tailed file (or better, a 1/2 round mill-bastard ) to enlarge the boar,
some step by step guidance,
may B linkage change,
other parts. That’d B a new thread...
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jcom4179
Well-known member
Someone yesterday mentioned the same thing. They said I could use a wood router to boar it out. My main concern is making sure the correct jets are put in so it will run smooth on the inline 200.mike’s carbs is great,
(but other co.s are ok 2)
U’d also need:
an adapter for the DGS,Weber DGV Carb Spacer & Base Insulator | Vintage Inlines
Available individually in 1/4" and 1/2" thicknesses, or in a kit (pictured above) which includes two spacers (one each), and four gaskets (carb studs are optional). The spacers also act as a Base Insulator to reduce heat soak (transfer of heat) to the carburetor. This keeps your carb cooler...
rat tailed file (or better, a mill-bastard 1/2 round) to enlargen the boar,
some step by step guidance,
may B linkage change,
other parts. That’d B a new thread...
Thanks for the info
mike’s carbs is great,
(but other co.s are ok 2)
U’d also need:
an adapter for the DGS,Weber DGV Carb Spacer & Base Insulator | Vintage Inlines
Available individually in 1/4" and 1/2" thicknesses, or in a kit (pictured above) which includes two spacers (one each), and four gaskets (carb studs are optional). The spacers also act as a Base Insulator to reduce heat soak (transfer of heat) to the carburetor. This keeps your carb cooler...
rat tailed file (or better, a mill-bastard 1/2 round) to enlargen the boar,
some step by step guidance,
may B linkage change,
other parts. That’d B a new thread...
I had the non synchro fist gear 277 three speed sucked broke often, then the 303 three speed. Changed out the three speed to a four speed and it was easier to drive ,would stay in the power band, was faster also. I would of loved a five speed with the overdriven fifth to cut RPM's on highway, but they where not available at that time. You are leaving better fuel mileage and performance on the table by not going to the T5.I'm glad you like the pics, I did my best to get every angle of how well they fit. Thank you for the compliment on the car, it's a blast to drive. I might be changing gears, " literally" on doing the 2v swap this year. I have a 3 speed manual top loader transmission that I want to swap in to replace the C4. Earlier I put a post up asking if anyone knows where I can purchase a complete clutch kit. Basically going from an automatic to a manual I need everything. I've been looking online to find a kit with all the parts, but I don't even know if a complete swap in clutch kit exists. I'm also putting it out there if anyone has any clutch parts that will fit my car I'm looking to buy. Doing the swap piece by piece is going to be a daunting task. I will definitely have the Weber 2v in for next summer. I wish I could say the same for the manual tranny. If you have any advice on the transmission swap, "other than dude you gotta drop in a T5"
Thanks
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jcom4179
Well-known member
I'm not too worried about the fuel mileage, but I am surprised about the lack in performance. On the other hand I do get it. I just love driving a car with a stick shift, especially a mustang. Tell me do you know of any places that might sell most of the parts I would need for installing a clutch system. I'm hoping someone see's the post I put up yesterday about finding someone who has at least some of the many clutch parts I need.
“...do you know of any places that might..."
not ina header thread
“... If you have any advice..."
just 'to take a breather’ after the change (I guess a 38/38 is going on?)
Try it out, see what it is like, go slo w/major changes so as to notice/enjoy/assess.
May B do a whole (a car is a system, change one thing effects all the others) plan, time line, budget, tool search, parts gather, etc (need I go on?)
I see alot of these rest0mods going off the rails w/o this kind of approach (end product not worth the time, $). I no, not much wrenchin in research and planning (but can still B lotsa fun [4 me]). Livin da dream~
not ina header thread
“... If you have any advice..."
just 'to take a breather’ after the change (I guess a 38/38 is going on?)
Try it out, see what it is like, go slo w/major changes so as to notice/enjoy/assess.
May B do a whole (a car is a system, change one thing effects all the others) plan, time line, budget, tool search, parts gather, etc (need I go on?)
I see alot of these rest0mods going off the rails w/o this kind of approach (end product not worth the time, $). I no, not much wrenchin in research and planning (but can still B lotsa fun [4 me]). Livin da dream~
Do you happen to know what the axle ratio is in your Mustang? Just curious about the driving experience of using a 3.03 top loader with typical 200/c4 axle ratio. Someone on here will know and I will look forward to their comments.I'm glad you like the pics, I did my best to get every angle of how well they fit. Thank you for the compliment on the car, it's a blast to drive. I might be changing gears, " literally" on doing the 2v swap this year. I have a 3 speed manual top loader transmission that I want to swap in to replace the C4. Earlier I put a post up asking if anyone knows where I can purchase a complete clutch kit. Basically going from an automatic to a manual I need everything. I've been looking online to find a kit with all the parts, but I don't even know if a complete swap in clutch kit exists. I'm also putting it out there if anyone has any clutch parts that will fit my car I'm looking to buy. Doing the swap piece by piece is going to be a daunting task. I will definitely have the Weber 2v in for next summer. I wish I could say the same for the manual tranny. If you have any advice on the transmission swap, "other than dude you gotta drop in a T5"
Thanks
jcom4179
Well-known member
Your absolutely right. Trying to do too many things at the same time takes the fun out of the hobby I love. What I am going to do is the 3 speed manual swap, so I'll keep shopping for all the clutch components needed to do the manual transmission swap properly. Thank you for your words of wisdom. You hit the nail on the head
Jeff
jcom4179
Well-known member
I have no idea what the ratio is. I will look into that. From all the research I've done on the subject of swapping from a C4 to the 3 speed top loader nobody mentioned any issues with the axle ratio, but that does not mean there is no issue. Better to research it and be sure.
Thanks for mentioning that, so I can get the right answer
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