250 EFI into XC Ute

[Anonymous]

Hey guys,
looks like i've just bought my self a ZL Fairlane...

I'm planning on pulling the EFI 250 and putting it into the ute...
Also does the ECU talk to the gearbox at all ? My ute has a single rail...


Does anyone know of any clearance issuses with the efi manifold on the XC?
From what i can measure it looks ok...

Also does anyone have a suggestion on where to go to get some extractors for it ?
I'd like to keep it cheap, so 2nd hand is good


thanks,
Cam

 

[xctasy]

The ohv EFI engines, all of them, don't have a transmision plug-in to the EFI module.

Use stock XC to XG headers for the sixes. Most come with a dual bolt pattern, so it'll fit cast iron or alloy head. The XC is the same toe board and similar inner guards to the XD-XG Falcons, so there is no worry over fitting it all together.

The guy who got me into Falcon sixes was Richard, who has a TE Cortina 6 with an XE EFI. It was a piece of cake to fit up, and uses no alterations to the fuel tank bar an extra return line and a Bosch electric fuel pump. The 4.1 efi station wagon/ute EFI sender and emissions vents should fit on the XC ute.

The regs say it must use all the later evaporative emissions gear that came with the EFI engine. Up to you, but its a very simple and easy conversion.

The XC utes often run 3.23:1 diff gears, and the weight difference between an XE and XC ute isn't much different.


The EFI ECM unit can sit in the footwell kick panel, or inclosed in the torch poket beneath the glove box*.

There is a good deal of performance in the 4.1 EFI. The XF's were much heavier than the XC utes.


*Only other issues are the electrics. I'd personally jump at the opportunity to run a proper XE/XF ute steering column and wheel, and then use the XE EFI wiring loom for the lights, column stalks. The column is 25 mm shorter, and makes the old buzzard nicer to drive. The electronic speedo can be ditched, and the existing gauges can be traced back to the basic XC dash. That way, you can cut the XE/XF EFI loom at the firewall, and link it all together.

 

[wagon]

One of the really nifty things about Falcons is the wiring colour codes are more or less retained (for XD onwards, I know for certain!) eg. Red with a green tracer is +12V via key (key ON). This means an integration of the XF and XC looms should not be too taxing. I did it successfully on my XE, when I converted it from a carby to XF efi. A few things to watch out for though...

Any vacuum leaks will make it run lean, and idle rough.
The vane airflow meters nearly always get tampered with too, so try and get one that has never been disturbed around the lid area.
As far as I know, XF throttle position switches are unavailable new now, but an EA part with a hole drilled through it and the wiring lengthened will work (make sure the voltage at closed throttle is around 0.7-0.9V, or it will chew 30L/100km (at 1.5V)... you may have to enlarge the mounting screw slots to get the adjustment correct!)
Coolant temp sensors are the same as later parts.
Make sure the fuel pressure is spot on (these things have no closed loop control, will chew more fuel if too high)
I found too that fitting a 91degree celcius thermostat improved economy by about 1L/100km for very short (5km or so) trips- the standard part is 88 degrees.
With my head / cam / exhaust the thing goes harder with around 14-16deg of base timing (instead of 10deg), although the idle can hunt a bit sometimes.

It may seem I am a little bit obcessed with fuel consumption - I have been battling that demon for 18months now, and am slowly winning. I would never ever go back to a carby, as the efi motor drives much nicer and the car goes a heap harder - but it tends to chew more fuel than the carby motor. Xtaxi explained a bit more in an earlier posting.

Good luck, I hope I haven't scared you off the idea!

 

[wagon]

Just another note, I forgot you had a manual gearbox... you might need the clutch switch and neutral switch wired up too. Also, the computers are different between autos and manuals - although an auto ecu in a manual might be OK - I know a manual ecu in an auto will have idle problems (been there, done that!).
ECU numbers are as follows - for ULP models -
Auto 86DA12A650A** (could be A1A or WAI or 6AA)
Manual 86DA12A650B** (could be B1A etc.)

I would not use a leaded setup; they have no knock sensor!
Please note too the leaded and unleaded wiring harnesses are different and so are the computers. The injectors are different too, but everything else (including the airflow meter) is the same.

Enjoy.

 

[Anonymous]

if you are using a manual box you must use manual ecu as auto ecu will make it rev higher between your gear changes!

 

[Anonymous]

Hey Guys,
I'm going to have to suck it and see a bit, i'm sure finding a manual ecu will be a bit harder to do that using the auto one, i'll just have to put up with it having a high idle...

Is a '85 ZL likly to be leaded or unleaded ???

And if they dont run a closed loop why is there a O2 sensor in the exhaust ???

Or is it something else ??

thanks.
Cam

 

[addo]

If it's leaded, you'd think they wouldn't have an oxy sensor in the pipe.

 

[Anonymous]

it's not an oxy sensor!! the piece in the exhaust you are reffering to is air injection fitting but this will be blocked off on all series1 motors, i think late 86 onwards had air injection.All 85 models were leaded and did not have a knock sensor.hope this helps.

 

[Anonymous]

So whats the thing in the exhaust manifold with a wire connected to it ???

Which of these motors is better ? Leaded or unleaded ??

Is there much of a difference ?

thanks,
Cam

 

[Anonymous]

Hey Guys,
I got the ZL home today...
Put in the AFM and replaced the dead fuses after fixing a short where the radio has been removed, and had issues starting it...
Found that the fuel pump wasnt running, traced it back to a poor connection in a fuse in the engine bay...
so it runs !

It also appears i was wrong ! there is no O2 sensor, but it sure looks like there is one from the photos i took eariler, from the angle i took them the bolt in the exhaust (for the air injection?) lined up perfectly with the red wire for the starter !

Anyway...
Does anyone have a wire colour code listing for the ZL ?
I've got one for the XC and ZH, but these arent much help on the ZL !!

thanks,

CamZH

 

[wagon]

You are right.... there is NO oxygen sensor on ANY XF efi system. They have egr (grumble) and the usual pcv breather stuff. They ULP version is better, it has a later model processor and more memory (bigger maps!) + it has a knock sensor - so you can up the advance and the death rattles stay away. I have enough info on the wiring to get you going on a transplant, but are you near a public library with a factory workshop manual??? If you need help please PM me, I will see what I can do.

 

[Anonymous]

Hey Wagon,
Thanks for the idea about the library !

I went to one today (slow work day) and found that a branch up the road had the XF/ZL Gregory's book...

It shows in the schematics that the auto and the manual hook upto the ecu in the same point...

But i'm not sure of the switches. ie is the clutch switch closed when the clutch is in or out ?? me thinks out...


Has anyone ever tried putting a tank out of a xf/zl into a ute / wagon where the spare tyre is meant to go ??

thanks,
Cam

 

[xctasy]

Spare tyre can go under the rear service locker beside the petrol tank only if it's really small. Stick with a XR-XF sedan tyre bolt through the floor on a bolted on 3X25x100 ground with a nut welded in the top.

The LPG tank is secured from four bolts at the top of the load deck, from 25 mm steel strips of metal about 400 mm long and 3mm thick.

 

[wagon]

How similar are the XD-XG utes floor (tray) wise?? Maybe the fuel tank out of one of those would fit....

 

[Anonymous]

xtaxi : LPG ?? Who said anything about LPG ??
and i dont care much for a spare and where it will go, its a ute ! i've got a tray !


Wagon: yeah,. i can use a tank from an injected xf-xh ute, but i dont know how hard it will be to find one, i like the idea of the zl tank, as i have one !

I think i'll measure it for myself on the weekend...

thanks,
Cam

 

[wagon]

Trouble is, sedan tanks are made of plastic. Wagon and ute tanks are steel and you may be able to do a cut and shut job and make it fit. The wagons (xe,xf) have a lift pump and an external high pressure pump. The good news is a later (ea-el) pump assembly will fit - but you would still be stuck with the dicky setup in the side of the tank (you have to drain the tank totally to get at the pump in the tank). The later (eg xf) tanks (utility) were under the tray floor just behind the passenger.... Just follow the rust trail and you will find it.

Cheers

Kendall

 

[Anonymous]

Hey Kendall.

I didnt realise until i looked that the ZL/XF tank was plastic...
But i'm not too worried ! Plastic cant rust !

It looks like the tank from the ZL will fit where the spare wheel carrier in the ute is... The ute has about 1m between the chassis rails and the tank is only 800 wide, i'll be cutting it fine for length tho, as the spare wheel carrier is about 700long and the tank is about 800 !
the filler might be interesting also !

but at least then i have a bigger tank with internal high pressure pump, and its over the rear wheels...
then i can ditch the standard tank and stick more stuff in the "cargo hold"

cya,
Cam

 

[xctasy]

Spare tyre can go under the rear service locker beside the petrol tank only if it's really small. Stick with a XR-XF sedan tyre bolt through the floor on a bolted on 3X25x100 ground with a nut welded in the top.

The LPG tank is secured from four bolts at the top of the load deck, from 25 mm steel strips of metal about 400 mm long and 3mm thick.

xtaxi : LPG ?? Who said anything about LPG ??
and i dont care much for a spare and where it will go, its a ute ! i've got a tray !

Oh dear, o my. I've got gasssssssss :splat:

 

[Anonymous]

Hey guys,
Got the motor out of the ZL today...
Not much fuss envolved, always helps when there is no radiator or front of the car

Looks like the motor that is/was in the ZL has recently been rebuilt by GEM, so i'll see if i can contact then to find out when...
But it all looks nice and clean, and seeing as the ZL was only showing 283,000km on the clock i'm thinking the new motor is probably very new ?
Tis also a DA83 block.


CamZH

 

[addo]

GEM used to, like Ford and Repco, have a little plate held on with drive pins on the engine block. It stated the date and oversizes.

I'm not a big fan of their rebuilds and would probably not place great confidence in details being adhered to (compression ratio, for example). I may be wrong in this case (and for your sake, hope to be proven so).

Adam.