my exhaust manifold is cracking. Just buy another?

LaGrasta,

Use a later year manifold like from the 1970's vs the 1960's as they are a heavier duty casting and Ford redesigned them to try to eliminate the cracking problem.

Your probably not going to want to hear this... :cry: :cry: But you should remove your head and get the manifold sealing area resurfaced and also get the manifold resurfaced wether its a new or used manifold.

Contrary to popular belief (and contrary to any parts store gasket sets) Ford never used a gasket...it was a metal on metal seal only.

Besides the bracket the guys are talking about, there is also some special locking five eared "lock washers" that Ford used to assure that the manifold bolts would never loosen up from the head.

I can give you the Ford part number for them and take a picture of them if it would help you??

Later,

Doug
 
I've got 3 of those locking washer things... but yeah. I pulled the head to get this manifold off for him, and it took me all of an hour? =) I love this engine.
 
Thanks Doug for your comments. With this being my only transportation, I can't have the car down for more than an afternoon. I'm going to get the used manifold, clean it and the head surfacing the best I can myslef, and see what happens.
I was planning on hitting AutoZone for the donut gasket and while there pick-up their tabbed lock washers (Mr. Gasket brand, I believe). I do have bolts and not nuts holding the manifold on. I origianlly thought they were only nuts. I guess I should pick up some of those too. AutoZone has all that stuff. I'm going to soak the bolts in kroil the night before I remove it. I hope they come out with no problems.
 
On getting the manifold bolts out, Just take it slow and easy. Dont use anything bigger or longer than a normal 3/8 or maybe 1/2" drive socket wrench. If they wont move with that you will break them for sure with something larger. I think factory torque was only around 25ft lbs so rust is usually what you are fighting. Try turning them both directions, sometimes you can get them to rock back and fourth a bit and work the pennatrant in and the rust out. If you can get an impact on them (even one of the cheapo electric ones) the vibration is good for the rust and does not tend to break the bolts like constant pressure from a regular wrench.

While you are at the parts store pick up a 'bottoming' tap for your size, should be 3/8 16 to clean the rust and crap out of the holes in the head. A normal tap is a tapper to make it easier to get started but will not cut threads all the way down in a blind (not through) hole. Compressed air is good to blow the dust out of the holes then.

For the DIY manifold and head surface cleaning I use a wire brushes in an electric drill. Does a good job of getting the carbon and rust off. Wont help if the metal is warpped but thats why we use a gasket.


Slow and easy is the key. If they are still stuck go for heat from a torch.
 
LaGrasta, I purchased a exhaust manifold off the internet from WWW.RESTOREMUSTANGS.COM for my 66' 200c.i. for $156. They have another stock manifold listed for $117 that is listed for 1964-1967 - 170/200 engines. The one I bought for $156 was listed for 1964-1973 - 200/250 engines and supposedly is beefier and has better flow-through characteristics; but I am not certain of those facts!? Since you have a 63' Falcon with a 170c.i. engine I would think that a exhaust manifold that would bolt up to a 200c.i. would bolt up to a 170c.i. as well; but I am not certain. The exhaust manifold I purchased (the $156 one) takes a donut-type gasket by the way!
 
Fordconvert, you read my mind. ALmost everything you suggested was EXACTLY what I was going ot do, even the wire brush in a drill idea. I've done that on combustion chambers (piston top and vavles) with great success. It gets all the crud off quick and will even give it a mirror finish.
I didn't however know about that other type of tap ytou mentioned. Thanks fo rthe tip on that one. I have an air compressor so I'll have it filled and on hand when I tackle this.

Thanks again to 65stang200 for the manifold. As Singleton suggest, the latter is a better design and that's just what 65stang200 sold me, along with the extra down pipe bracket. I should be golden after this install. I'll let you know how it turns out. I may get it done this weekend, but I'm not sure.
 
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